grimmysnr

Even after using this adapter I was still having problems with the sub as it seemed like either the Amp was going into protection, I was losing input, the phase kept flipping, or I had a lose ground. It was really weird and happened often at lower volumes but would still rarely happen at mid or higher. Then it seemed like it would do it based on if I was making a left or right turn so I thought for sure that I had a lose connection somewhere. Checked everything multiple times and couldn't find anything wrong. So just last week I actually changed inputs from the speaker wires that was recommended in the kicker install to the right rear speakers inputs. I believe the kicker install has you hook up to the right forward dash speaker. Since changing the input to my right rear, everything has changed. No cut out, bass is deep and filling, and it doesnt take much volume to get you where you want to be. I did have one instance where I turned it up and I think my amp went into overload protection because the sub dropped. But when this happened I still had the gains turned up from the other input so I am certain I actually did overload the amp. So while I can't be 100% on your discrepancy, I can confirm that the right rear speaker input works and that while the volume from the stock speaker seems low, the output voltage is still there. The volume out of the rears seem like because the speakers themselves just suck. I bet if you put some better stuff in the doors it wouldn't sound so bad. As a speaker input level to your amp, that input will work just fine. And the wires are under the passenger door sill so they are a bit easier to get to.

I was able to get a photo of where I tapped into a switched source. Follow the blue wire. Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

Just to update all of you on my subwoofer saga. I had my setup working for a little while but no matter what I did I could not get the bass to volume ratio match down. It was either too much or too little. Too tingy or high pitched with the filter level or gain was too low and half volume is good but a notch over half the sub sounded like crap. Recently I started having an issue that I can only explain as intermittent open short protection where my sub would cut out at lower volumes. It would sometimes cut out around half volume. I thought I had some loose connections so I opened everythjng up and ohmed wires and checked voltage and found no issues. I tried playing with the gain, changing the stereo to mono wire config, upped the bass in the radio, the filter, and damn near anything else. I just could not get my sub to respond correctly. Well I did some more research and many threads suggested line out converters but I didn't feel like spending $60+ on such a simple setup. I came across the Kicker KISLOC 2-channel speaker level to rca line out converters. Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OInVDbV8P7B85 It runs in line with your speaker level input and converts it to rca. It has changed everything. This little thing works like a champ. I only hooked up one channel on it and ran the associated rca for that channel since I have a 10 inch dual 4-ohm sub setup. The problem I was having, according to research, was that the truck or my amp was detecting a open circuit and going into protect mode. It has something to do with the resistance on the speaker wire. This little adapter puts that resistance on the truck side and output the right frequency and voltage on the amp side. If you are having trouble with sound quality, cut outs, and don't want to spend time and money on a normal line out setup then get this thing. It just works. Also one of these days I will stop being lazy and take a picture of where I tapped in my remote switch for my amp in the passenger compartment fuse box. Let me know if you have questions. Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

There is a fuse in the passenger fuse box that has a blade tap for this exact thing. Look in the fuse box on the front passenger side and there will be one in there for standby power. It is open already, no need to splice or jam something in anywhere. Just put a blade on your blue remote wire and plug it in. Works fine with auto stop start and everything. This is where I am tapped in at.

Yep! Those are the ones. I couldn't get the connector out without doing exactly what you seem to have done to your hands. So I gave up and left the connector installed and then tapped in place. Solid blue is positive and the Brown/Blue stripe is negative.

If you look at the picture above, the audio module is the better place to tap these wires.

Sorry it took me a while to respond. I did not get notified. Unfortunately, I am unable to tell exactly which one, but the good news is that any set of wires that is twisted together is generally a speaker wire set. I cannot say which colors are which. There may be other wires that are spiral, but to be sure look at the wires coming off the audio module in the above picture. It is actually best that you tap from the front speakers because the overall volume level is much higher than the rear. I attempted to tap the rear speakers the same way you are looking to do and ended up going with the wires off the audio module. If you adjust your fade to the rear speakers and balance left or right I think you will be disappointed with their output at the same volume level set on on the radio. Once I get back to my truck I might be able to look under there and see if I can find out which wires are which. Either way, I recommend you tap off the front speakers. I will see what I can find later.

Well I am now corrected. I did a QR scan of my RPO code label located on the driver side door area and I have RPO IOR which is the 7" Infotainment non-bose. I also attached a picture of the audio module and the connectors referenced in the Kicker guide.

Hey folks, I was able to get my sub tuned and it sounds great. I kept the input from the front speaker since Eric pointed out that the volume and range of frequencies on the front is much greater than the back door speakers. If you Fade and Balance to the back you will notice that it is very quiet. I think they are there to help fill the sound, but do very little else. Other than ease of access, I would not tap into the rear speakers at this point. The only problem I ran into after that was tuning. It took quite a bit of gain and tuning filter to get the sub to respond at the right volume. I had my gain set at the mid point and it took almost half to 3/4 volume before I could tell that the sub was doing its job. Naturally, this is not the typical listening volume and I wanted more performance at lower volumes. I left the equalizer on the radio alone and just focused on the gain, filter, and base boost on my amp. Everything works great and I am happy with the results. It is no premium system, but it works. I am not very confident that simply changing speakers for higher quality units would be worth my time. The stock headunit just seems weak and it would more money to invest in a 4-channel amp, maybe a DSP, and the speakers themselves. All I really wanted was some extra thump. My next problem is the phone feature of the radio. I can make calls and listen to music over Bluetooth and Android Auto. However, whenever receiving a call my truck will start ringing and will continue to ring even after clicking the answer button. I cannot talk or hear anything over the truck communications. I have to physically pick up the phone and switch to handset to talk. Even then, while talking, the truck continues to ring. After hanging up the truck also continues to ring and will not stop. I can shut the truck off and start it up and it will still be ringing. Only after shutting off the truck and walking away for a while it will reset. If I hit the OnStar button and immediately hit the end call button on the screen the radio will return to normal. The GM tech says that the Android version 9.0 Pie on my S9+ is the cause. Supposedly once I update to 9.1 it should fix it because the bluetooth is not sending a signal that the call has been picked up. I think i will test this with a different phone whenever I get around to it. Verizon hasnt released 9.1 for my model yet. I will post some pictures once we have a nice day and I can go mess with the truck and not freeze to death. **Quick edit, my radio is the 8" MyLink non-bose**

Eric, Thank you for your response. I kept digging around yesterday and I found the audio control module and the two connectors called out in the attached PDF instructions. There is almost zero room to work since that junction box in the picture above is in the way and the connectors were impossible to disconnect. They have some weird tab that you have to pull down and then it still would not pull out of the module. I found the wires after peeling back this cloth wrapping with mounds of glue on it. I will take a picture of where the module and connectors are. The wiring colors you mentioned in your conversation are still accurate. In fact, in the passenger door sill, there is a wire loom going to the back of the truck that you can gain access to easily without having to remove the B-PIllar trim. The blue/black and white wire is sitting in there and is much easier to peel back the wire wrap. What I have noticed, and found in other forums, is that any wires that are twisted together are typically speaker wires. This seems to be the case. So I have tapped both channels off the one input for the front speaker, but knowing what I know now I think I will move the connections to the wires that go to the back speakers. Inside that same wire as the right rear speaker looks like another twisted pair that goes to the left rear speaker. I will likely tap both channels from there to make sure the amp gets a full signal from two separate sources. I will snap some photos tomorrow since I was able to get it hooked up today. Overall it sounds better, but I think I need to tune it a bit more. I also think that maybe, just maybe, the one 10" might not be enough. Either that or the stock radio is just not powerful/dynamic enough to pump out the right audio. It seems like I have to really crank the volume before I start to hear the sub. The volume is halfway, but seems quite loud for how far turned up it is vs when the subwoofer really kicks in. I might have to play with it a bit more. In either case, I did find the wires and it was a pain to get to. I don't think tapping off the back of the unit in the dash will work because the audio module is mounted on the passenger side wall, behind the glove box just below the passenger fuse compartment. I will get some more photos soon. Thank you again for confirming the wire colors. It appears that the colors have remained the same. 2019 Kicker Subwoofer Install.pdf

Hello folks, I have a 2019 Silverado non-bose with the 8-inch screen. I am attempting to install my 10 inch Alpine Subwoofer and amp that was a holdover from other pickups that I had. I got all the wiring complete such as battery, ground, and remote switch at the F27 fuse. The amp turns on and everything appears to be working fine, except I have no audio inputs. I referenced the PDF install guide for the new Kicker subwoofer that is now offered for the 2019 Silverado/Sierra with Bose/non-Bose which tells me to disconnect two 28 pin connectors and locate a Blue and Brown/Blue set of wires. I am supposed to tap into those wires for my input. These connectors are supposed to be off the audio control module over by the glovebox, but I am having a difficult time trying to discern if I have the right connectors or not. Looking underneath my passenger footwell behind the glovebox I found this junction box with all sorts of wires. There are some blue and brown striped wires, but there also seems to be a couple sets of them. I just wanted to reach out to all of you and see if I am on the right track and I just need to dig further or if I need to look elsewhere. I am one wire tap away from getting this working. Thank you!

While I can find information stating that disabling it is illegal I could not find anything black and white stating that they can legally lower the pressure. From what I did see and even on a thread I created here sometime back that ultimately it is a liability issue for the dealership and in most cases won't arbitrarily alter the pressure for just anybody. Simply put, if their parent company GM says that the vehicle is rated for X amount of tire pressure and the dealer's/customer's infinite engineering wisdom decides that the pressures should be lower then what happens when that person has some type of accident that may total the vehicle? Not to mention cause a fatality? I could see many lawyers who could spin this in GM's or their clients direction because the vehicle was not operating in a manner that was prescribed by law. I am all for customizing my stuff and I would never tell anybody they couldn't either but people should always assume the risk when they do so even if its just the fact that if somethings happens the customer pays for the incident. I do think that saying every dealer would simply change your pressure at request is false mostly because I attempted to do that with four dealers in my town and they all told me to get bent.

You got lucky then because for a dealer to alter the pressure outside of what the manufacturer recommends is illegal. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

The tire pressure set point should be about 20% less than the factory recommended rating. This is set by the NTSB so it cannot be changed or altered. If your max is 80 psi then the pressure you would get a light at would be approximately 64 psi. The reason you may have only gotten a warning for one tire could just be what the pressure read at the moment it took the reading or it could just be a small glitch. On my 2010 Sierra 2500HD my maximum pressure is 72 psi and I have had one tire be lower than the other but yet the high tire would send a warning. Even during the drive I may not ever get a warning for the lower tire. It is just a finnicky system sometimes but it is also designed with the governments hand so I suppose getting any warning at all is good enough for government work. I usually keep my front tires at the recommended rating and I keep the rear tires about 15% below factory recommended so that I can factor in cold mornings. Unless I am towing anything which is rare anyway, I just keep my tire pressure at the lower part of the spectrum for better traction and ride quality.