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grimmysnr

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grimmysnr last won the day on September 29 2012

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About grimmysnr

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  1. The difference is light intensity and lumen output. With more light comes more power and with more power there is more heat. Those 55w ballasts are known to melt plastic halogen housings and as a courtesy to other drivers 55w output is just a bit too much. Even 35w will eventually deteriorate the reflection immediately around the bulb. You should be fine for a while though. Just be courteous and make sure to aim your lights a little lower since you will be blinding everybody on the road. Also stay within 4300k to 5500k. Anything above 5000k starts getting into the blue light spectrum and then lumen output becomes regressive. The higher kelvin rating is actually a lower light output. Goodluck.
  2. The good news is that LED technology is getting pretty good these days. LED lumen output is getting close to 55w HID output and bulb design mimics the light dispersion in halogen reflector housings. In fact, LEDs is probably the recommended solution now for a plug and play into a halogen reflector. If you end up retrofitting projector housings, HIDs still reign supreme. With that being said, I have some experience trying to retrofit some HIDs into recent GM vehicles and one thing about GM stays true; they don't like to change what isn't broke. Their headlights, especially halogen headlights, use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) that sends micropulses of voltage power to halogen headlamps to deter modification by users and to control the brighteness of halogen/LED Daytime Running Lights. Instead of a constant 12 power source, the vehicle modulated and pulses a 12v power source to save power, increase component longevity, and finite control. What does this mean for you? To retrofit HID or LED bulbs into stock GM reflector housings, you will likely need a relay harness with a capacitor wired in series with the harness to smooth out the pulses on the input side of the harness. Basically the vehicle plugs into the input side of the relay harness, but you have to wire a capacitor inbetween. If you don't the relay will cycle on and off at nearly 60-80 hertz which will practically destroy the internals of the relay. The capacitor will deliver a smooth and solid 12v signal to turn on the relay. The power side of the relay will wire to the battery and then two more sets of wires will go out to the lights. This is kind of like an "anti-flicker" module but just one step further. Anti-flicker wont be enough because the capacitor has to be on the input side. Flicker modules typically go on the sides where the lights are. So while it may seem easy, there is just a few more steps needed to make it all work. So if you are comfortable with running a few wires then you can make it all work. There aren't many plug and play solutions just yet. Head over to The Retrofit Source or Headlight Revolution websites to price out what you need. Those folks can help you out.
  3. RST front turn signal bulbs?

    I just checked my truck and you are right. The front ambers are not on with the headlights. That makes that part easier I guess. The difficult part now is to find something that works well for the back. Your timing must have been impeccable to capture your signal flash.
  4. RST front turn signal bulbs?

    Is there a noticeable brightness between running lights and signal? I have purchased lights in the past and it was almost imperceptible when I had my signal on versus the lights being on in running mode. Care to post a short video or something at night to show the difference?
  5. I have Westin Pro Traxx 4" Oval Nerf Bars in black for steps and ProZ LoRoll Premium Roll-Up Tonneau Cover. I don't have pictures of the truck yet because the weather has been so crappy lately. Both were on sale at Autoanything and fit and finish are great. So far I like them. One of these days if we get some decent weather I will take a picture and everything including all the mods that I have done and post them.
  6. Coming from that sound system you have there, the Bose will just make you mad. Take those subs and put them in a box under the seat of your new Silverado and you will be fine probably. I just did this and I am happy. I am even considering throwing another 10" at it. The Bose is great for all around sound, but for audiophiles looking for something special, you will be modifying it later....no doubt.
  7. I traded a 200 Ford F150 with the 5.4 in on my current 2019 Silverado LT. I also have a 2015 Yukon XL SLT2 with the 5.3 and a 2015 Challenger SRT 392. Maybe I am qualified to answer your questions. I have previously owned a 2011 Yukon XL Denali, 2010 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0, and a 2006 Sierra SLT. First, lets answer some of those questions.... 1. Is the ride quiet? You bet. You are in a totally different Eco system. My Yukon is pretty quiet too, but that thing is a luxury road king machine. It is purpose built for traveling. If I leave the radio turned down, aside from the normal noises you hear from just about anything; there are no rattles, squeaks, cracks, and just about anything else. This is a far cry from my 2004 F150 and 2010 Sierra. Those were some noisy vehicles. The ride is extremely smooth and the whole truck just feels solid. Previous trucks always felt like the front and the bed had minds of their own and the only way to combat that was to put weight back there. That is not the case here. Very smooth, solid, and comfortable ride. 2. How is the Bose? I had the Bose in my 2006 Sierra, 2010 Sierra, 2011 Yukon, and 2015 Yukon with the Blu-Ray system. My Yukon sounds pretty damn good. The trucks I had? Not so much. The mids to highs were always good, but that little 8 inch woofer always left more to be desired. I always added my own subwoofer to round out the system. As the old saying goes....Got mids, but no lows? Must be Bose.... My 2019 has the basic sound system with 6x9 doors, tweeters in the dash, and some 6x8 in the rear doors. I just moved my old 10 inch Alpine in an underseat box to round out the system. Sounds great to me. At this point I see no reason to go further. I listen to a wide array of music. The only thing I am bummed about is while it has USB-C connections and Android Auto, it doesnt have SiriusXM, Ipod, or Aux-in. I had to go external for those items. Seems weird that even the basic system doesnt have some basic ammenities. I will get to this later.... 3. More power? I am blown away with what they did with the 8-speed and the gearing. The 5.3 is a monster right now. I can only imagine what the 6.2 would be like. Coming from my 2015 Challenger 392, this truck scoots. It has a crap ton of low end and when it reaches the 3-4k RPM range it just gets up and goes. My 2015 Yukon has some torque, but it is a 6-speed and just doesnt have the gears like the 2019 has. They got the power delivery just right. Average driving around town I am anywhere between 16-18 MPG with 24+ out on the highway. You won't be dissapointed with the 5.3 in this 2019, it does very well for itself. 4. Winter? We are just coming out of a bitter winter in the upper midwest. I'd say it handles fine. 5. Towing? Don't know. I don't pull much. 6. LED Lights? I like them. I retrofitted actual projectors and HIDs in almost every vehicle I have ever own. I usually go to the retrofit source and get the mini-H1's and outfit some 35 watt 4k HIDs. GM did a good job with the LEDs. They are bright and have good projection downrange. The high-beam gets where it needs to go. Not quite in the HID projector range, but you have to figure that GM needed to design these lights to work in almost all types of environment. If you live in the midwest where street lights are a luxury, then you may find them to be good enough most of the time. My projectors were designed to dip down out of oncoming traffic, but the downrange in the front of the vehicle was fantastic. In bi-xenon high beam, I could see into tomorrow. Comparing the LEDs to halogen, the LEDs win hands down. The LEDs are a significant upgrade over halogen. If we are talking GM stock LED vs HID? Ermmm....I think my HID projectors are still preferred. As a stock solution though, the LEDs are great. I see no reason I modify or alter them in any way. I may consider supplementing with a light bar or something that can reach further down range and maybe help fill in some of the areas right in front of the truck. Then again, I could not do any of that and probably still be fine too. It's a mixed bag. They are worlds better than halogens though, no question. Last thing to consider about 2019 Silverado's. The options are weird. There are things my truck has that you wouldn't think would be there considering the trim level, but then there are things it doesn't have that I feel are just basic stuff these days. Sunglasses holder? Nope. Garage opener? Nope. LED turn signals/tail lights? Nope. Navigation? Nope. Overall better radio options? Nope. Auto dim rearview? Nope. Wheel well liners? Nope. Bed liner? Nope. Fog lights? Nope. For a truck that MSRPs around $50k and I was OTD around low $40's, I guess I just don't understand. Especially when it has heated steering wheel, heated cloth seats, brake controller, 4WD, G80 locker, LED headlights, remote start, and LED bed lighting. It just has things that don't make sense. I guess because I am used to GMC where almost all that crap is standard. You just never think about it until its not there. So make sure you know what you are willing to live without so you don't have to do what I am doing and find alternate solutions. Hope this helps. Goodluck!
  8. Well I am now corrected. I did a QR scan of my RPO code label located on the driver side door area and I have RPO IOR which is the 7" Infotainment non-bose. I also attached a picture of the audio module and the connectors referenced in the Kicker guide.
  9. Hey folks, I was able to get my sub tuned and it sounds great. I kept the input from the front speaker since Eric pointed out that the volume and range of frequencies on the front is much greater than the back door speakers. If you Fade and Balance to the back you will notice that it is very quiet. I think they are there to help fill the sound, but do very little else. Other than ease of access, I would not tap into the rear speakers at this point. The only problem I ran into after that was tuning. It took quite a bit of gain and tuning filter to get the sub to respond at the right volume. I had my gain set at the mid point and it took almost half to 3/4 volume before I could tell that the sub was doing its job. Naturally, this is not the typical listening volume and I wanted more performance at lower volumes. I left the equalizer on the radio alone and just focused on the gain, filter, and base boost on my amp. Everything works great and I am happy with the results. It is no premium system, but it works. I am not very confident that simply changing speakers for higher quality units would be worth my time. The stock headunit just seems weak and it would more money to invest in a 4-channel amp, maybe a DSP, and the speakers themselves. All I really wanted was some extra thump. My next problem is the phone feature of the radio. I can make calls and listen to music over Bluetooth and Android Auto. However, whenever receiving a call my truck will start ringing and will continue to ring even after clicking the answer button. I cannot talk or hear anything over the truck communications. I have to physically pick up the phone and switch to handset to talk. Even then, while talking, the truck continues to ring. After hanging up the truck also continues to ring and will not stop. I can shut the truck off and start it up and it will still be ringing. Only after shutting off the truck and walking away for a while it will reset. If I hit the OnStar button and immediately hit the end call button on the screen the radio will return to normal. The GM tech says that the Android version 9.0 Pie on my S9+ is the cause. Supposedly once I update to 9.1 it should fix it because the bluetooth is not sending a signal that the call has been picked up. I think i will test this with a different phone whenever I get around to it. Verizon hasnt released 9.1 for my model yet. I will post some pictures once we have a nice day and I can go mess with the truck and not freeze to death. **Quick edit, my radio is the 8" MyLink non-bose**
  10. Eric, Thank you for your response. I kept digging around yesterday and I found the audio control module and the two connectors called out in the attached PDF instructions. There is almost zero room to work since that junction box in the picture above is in the way and the connectors were impossible to disconnect. They have some weird tab that you have to pull down and then it still would not pull out of the module. I found the wires after peeling back this cloth wrapping with mounds of glue on it. I will take a picture of where the module and connectors are. The wiring colors you mentioned in your conversation are still accurate. In fact, in the passenger door sill, there is a wire loom going to the back of the truck that you can gain access to easily without having to remove the B-PIllar trim. The blue/black and white wire is sitting in there and is much easier to peel back the wire wrap. What I have noticed, and found in other forums, is that any wires that are twisted together are typically speaker wires. This seems to be the case. So I have tapped both channels off the one input for the front speaker, but knowing what I know now I think I will move the connections to the wires that go to the back speakers. Inside that same wire as the right rear speaker looks like another twisted pair that goes to the left rear speaker. I will likely tap both channels from there to make sure the amp gets a full signal from two separate sources. I will snap some photos tomorrow since I was able to get it hooked up today. Overall it sounds better, but I think I need to tune it a bit more. I also think that maybe, just maybe, the one 10" might not be enough. Either that or the stock radio is just not powerful/dynamic enough to pump out the right audio. It seems like I have to really crank the volume before I start to hear the sub. The volume is halfway, but seems quite loud for how far turned up it is vs when the subwoofer really kicks in. I might have to play with it a bit more. In either case, I did find the wires and it was a pain to get to. I don't think tapping off the back of the unit in the dash will work because the audio module is mounted on the passenger side wall, behind the glove box just below the passenger fuse compartment. I will get some more photos soon. Thank you again for confirming the wire colors. It appears that the colors have remained the same. 2019 Kicker Subwoofer Install.pdf
  11. Hello folks, I have a 2019 Silverado non-bose with the 8-inch screen. I am attempting to install my 10 inch Alpine Subwoofer and amp that was a holdover from other pickups that I had. I got all the wiring complete such as battery, ground, and remote switch at the F27 fuse. The amp turns on and everything appears to be working fine, except I have no audio inputs. I referenced the PDF install guide for the new Kicker subwoofer that is now offered for the 2019 Silverado/Sierra with Bose/non-Bose which tells me to disconnect two 28 pin connectors and locate a Blue and Brown/Blue set of wires. I am supposed to tap into those wires for my input. These connectors are supposed to be off the audio control module over by the glovebox, but I am having a difficult time trying to discern if I have the right connectors or not. Looking underneath my passenger footwell behind the glovebox I found this junction box with all sorts of wires. There are some blue and brown striped wires, but there also seems to be a couple sets of them. I just wanted to reach out to all of you and see if I am on the right track and I just need to dig further or if I need to look elsewhere. I am one wire tap away from getting this working. Thank you!
  12. I have had oil analysis done on multiple motors from my 2007 Chevy Impala, 2010 Sierra 2500HD 6.0l, and now my 2011 Yukon XL Denali 6.2l. Those copper and iron levels, despite the fact that the lab says they are moderate, are actually exceptionally high. My Yukon has about 78,000mi on the clock with about 34 copper and 140 iron. The iron can come from heavy towing or extremely long oil changes. Both of these elements were the case with my 6.2l so I changed out the oil and put in Amsoil. I will test again here in about 5k miles to see if my Iron levels return to normal. The 6.2l has DoD, oil cooler, and a metric eff ton of highway miles. My analysis says that because my copper is lower than the universal average of 44ppm then the Iron came from steel on steel parts. You analysis says the same in this regard about where the Iron comes from. If your project truck has seen very little towing, but slightly longer change intervals then this could be the issue. Then again I am no expert I just have been taking samples of the vehicles above for a while. I read the analysis and they tell me things are looking good. Being under 20k miles I am sure you are just seeing elevated wear metals from extended change interval. I will say that after looking at my other samples that while those are break in metals my levels werent nearly as high. I could send you some reports privately if you would like to see some different results. Just shoot me a PM with you email and I will forward a few reports your way.
  13. Dealing with SiriusXM Radio

    I have gotten plenty of good deals much like the ones you mentioned after canceling my service for one of my vehicles. They began sending me offers in the mail that just kept getting better. Eventually one came in similar to what you got which was around $30 for six months. I took it. They will budge if you are willing to go without for a little bit. It did take a month or two for the offer to come in the mail though. Once the offer comes in you don't even have to talk to anybody. Go online and enter the code they give you and you are all set. I happen to love SiriusXM and would never go back to regular radio if I could. Between my IPod and SiriusXM I never run out of stuff to listen to. XM 37 Octane is usually my favorite station with some Liquid Metal and some of the pop stuff depending on my mood. If they don't have anything worth listening to then I turn on the Pod. I really don't know why anybody would want to listen to the same five songs all day on regular radio interrupted by a minute long commercial between each one. Then in the morning when I would just rather listen to some tunes on my way to work there are two clowns on the radio talking about useless crap. Just my opinion though, YMMV.
  14. An alignment should not be necessary for changing out shocks. Shocks do not support the vehicles weight and do not alter ride height unless they serve as an auto leveling system similar to the air ride suspension on Yukon Denalis. Shocks are rate reducers so that your suspension doesn't just bounce all over the place. The compressed gas allows them to return to the extended position naturally so that they have positive tension on them. I have changed shocks on several vehicles including trucks without ever jacking the vehicle and I have also done it with Bilstein 5100's. I simply compressed the shock and let it extend by itself until I can install the mount bolt. Never got an alignment and never had an issue. If I did have an alignment issue it was more because I changed tires or was a little rough on it while driving on the back roads. If you were to take it to a shop and they find an issue I would be willing to bet it was pre-existing long before any shock changes. I am sure somebody will come in here with some science and say shocks lifted their truck 2 inches or something, but through my experience this has never happened. Especially since you can compress a shock by hand. If it is the whole strut assembly and you are not changing the spring at all or adding any spacers then an alignment should still be unnecessary. If adding anything to change ride height then absolutely.
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