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2009_Suburban's Achievements


Enthusiast (2/11)



  1. I think I fixed it with the help of this video: I found the vent tube filter not attached up closer to the filler tube, and it was dangling, but not that low. It and the filters inside were caked with dirt. I took the filter meshes out, banged them against a rock a bunch of times to get all the dirt out, put them back in, and zip tied the hose up where it was supposed to be. After disconnecting the battery, and driving for 20 minutes, the code is not back. Are there any other vent filters similar to this that could also have the same problem and require cleaning?
  2. My Haynes manual doesn't have it, and the Alldata and service manuals I could find are expensive, and only last a short time. Are there any other options?
  3. The check engine light is on, and I got the code read from Autozone, and it is P0446 which is "Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit." The recommended fix is to "Replace Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Vent Solenoid" But in the description, it refers to the broken part as a "Failed Purge Valve" Rockauto Lists Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid and Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid Which one should I get? Also, how certain is it that this part failed? Is there something else that is wrong that could have created the code?
  4. I have just finished putting everything back together, and did a test drive. There are no problems so far. Thank you guys for all your help!
  5. Since I didn't take the brake assembly apart, and only removed the bolts holding it on, there is no reason to lube the pins as they were never taken apart right? Also, can I put anti-seize on the t-30 torx bolt that holds the brake rotor on as it was very hard to get off? This car is subject to a lot of rattling since it is frequently driven on dirt roads. Since the auto parts store closest to me doesn't have blue thread locker, is it fine if I don't use it?
  6. I was able to get it out eventually. I also go the hub out. Virtually everything is covered in PB-Blaster. Aside from the rotor, what needs the PB-Blaster cleaned off of it? Would it cause nuts or bolts to come loose after I tighten them? Also, which bolts should I put anti-seize on? All of them? Also, the brake caliper bolts looked like this. What is on it? If I just clean the yellow and white stuff, and put some anti-seize on it, it should be fine right?
  7. I got all the bolts, off, however the torx one that holds the brake rotor on doesn't come off. I have broke/deformed like 3 t30 bits already, and the head of the torx screw is getting stripped. How do I get it out?
  8. When I take the hub off, Brendan recommended to take an old brake rotor, screw it on, and wack it with a hammer to get the bearing off. I do not have an old brake rotor, so can I just put the tire back on, and hit it with a rubber mallet?
  9. Yes, it is the upper ball joint. I think the upper ball joint is also faulty on the wheel with the broken bearing.
  10. Will I need loctite for anything? Also, I got a 36 mm socket for the axle nut. Other posts on similar forums said it was either 35 or 36 mm. The 36 mm socket seems to rotate back and forth slightly, but is a six point. It will probably get the nut off fine, but will it lead to inaccurate torque when I put the nut back on?
  11. Here are the tools and parts I have, or I will be getting. Wheel bearing, sockets, ratchets, wrenches, torque wrench, jack, jack stands, WD-40, and a breaker bar. Is there anything else I will need to change the wheel bearings? Would I have to grease anything?
  12. Is the ACDelco Gold bearings good? Its not technically the genuine one, but they are still the same company that makes the genuine one. Also, the other wheel moves when I move it up and down (but not left and right), but the brake caliper and other stuff move with it, and it stops moving at the upper ball joint. This means the wheel bearing for the other wheel is fine right?
  13. So is it fine If I get Moog as it is quite a bit cheaper?
  14. I did that, and it moved a lot! I also tried the other wheel, and it moved a tiny bit up and down, and took more force to move. Is the other wheel normal, or should I replace the bearings on that one too? Also, on rockauto.com, it shows a inner bearing, and an outer one. Should I get both? Are there any tuturials or writeups that I can use that will help me?
  15. For checking the wheel bearing, how would I get to it? I dont have a real jack, only the one that came with the car. Can I use this one, or should I get a better jack and jack stands? I also checked all the suspension, bushings and other stuff near there, and it looks the same as the other side.
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