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John Crouse

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  • Name
    Alaska Jo
  • Drives
    95 k1500 5.7ltr silverado

John Crouse's Achievements


Enthusiast (2/11)



  1. A bit of info, thanks. Can you elaborate on the GM HMMV? Not failure. Also, the breathers.... Do you mean like, the valve cover to the injector body housing and vaccume to Power Booster for instance?
  2. Hi Guys. I'm looking to install a snorkel or better put, a deep water or water forging kit on my 95 k1500 pickup. I have heard that there is naturally none for this body style. I have heard though there some out there that, with a little rework, can be adapted. For instance from an older Toyota or such. Make, model and of course year is pretty important to get as close as possible. Anyone have any experience with this?
  3. Thanks all for your awesome input. I have kept an eye on this over the last few days and I am certain you're right with the little volt needle motor. I'll be looking into the fix. Again, thanks much.
  4. The entire cluster has what looks like a hardware plug which goes out from there with flexable laminated circuit plastic sheet to the individual motors and lamps.
  5. Correct. Since writing this, I bought (to much money) a 200 Amp Alternator and it is worse. Also spiratic and the needle jumps up in volts as soon as the rpm's go up when starting to drive although, it doesn't read as high as the first new alternator which is 105 amps. When engine is warm, In idle, stopped and in drive, is when it gives off the worst readings. all plays out on the dashboard volt meter. With multimeter everything is normal. Could it be a ground under the dash? And how could the higher Amp Alt be worse than the stock Alt? Clearly not clear. Any thoughts? One quick note, other than this, the truck works fine.
  6. Hi All. I have got a real puzzle. The volt meter (analog) on my dash when cold reads just under the 14 volt mark. As it warms up it drops eventually to just above the red zone. I have changed out all my cables with heavy duty cables, cleaned all grounds I could find, being that both were old anyway, changed alternator and battery for top pole battery., swapped out Ecm (swapped back), and still the same. Here is the real puzzle for me. I have checked with my multimeter the continuity of the battery cables and when running, tested the volts. With multimeter everything is good to go and reads 14 volts. So guys, what do you think?
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