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About beertestr

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  1. I had a 15 Yukon XL 5.3 4wd and tow package (3.42) for 14 months and 33k miles. Daily commute is 18 miles each way, 4 miles highway, 14 miles 45mph Blvd and city stop/go. Regular mpg was 17-18, highway was 20mpg or higher. Winter was lower, remote start can drop mpgs a lot with relatively short drives. 8-10 min idling (0mpg) and a 35 min drive (17-19 mpg).... Food for thought. A fully warmed up 5.3l, according to the CAN data idles at 6-6.5g/s airflow. That's fully warmed up, no AC load. AC cycles on with defrost, and cold engines have higher friction, so this is likely the lowest air flow rate. Assume the engine is running stoichiometric, so divide the 6 grams/s airflow by 14.7 to get fuel flow rate per second. A few other calculations later, and converting to gallons, and idling 5.3 consumes about a quart of fuel per hour.... Minimum. It adds up, doesn't it? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  2. I tried the latch with the door lock in both positions to be sure. I tried to lift the outside door handle with both lock positions, nothing. Both the inner lock rod and the exterior handle rods are detached, but I can pop them in place and move the lock and outside latch. With the trim off, I can see inside the door jamb to see the child lock is off. I can get my finger in the door to play with the child lock too, just still no dice. I'm headed back to that yard with some tools tomorrow, we'll see. I just want to get the door open and see if the lower hem is still in good shape. If it is, I'm replacing my door on my 1500 HD with it.
  3. I'm at the boneyard, trying to snag a clean right rear side door off an 02 Suburban for my 1500HD. The door won't open, the inside handle is not connected, nor is the outside. Luckily, the interior trim panel has been removed, and somebody scavanged the window motor, so I have access to the latch. I have tried every combination of latch, lock, and inner door handle (child security) position, and the door does not seem to want to unlatch. It's not 100% on the pin, and I can move the door in and out about 1/4". Any tips/thoughts? Is there something that goes bad on the latch that won't allow it to release from the striker? The rear trim panel is off too, and I'm contemplating trying to get in there and cut the striker bolts off that way, but I need to pick up a cordless saw or cutoff tool. IF the door was not in great shape AND the correct color (black, easy to match) I'd have moved on by now, but it's a really clean door
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