Slurpee12

Excellent. I think I am just going to bleed enough to get down to the shop and pay for a flush. Fluid should be brand new after going through 4 bottles and this is what it looked like draining from the MC after bleeding the last weekend.

The flare does not look damaged. Since the nut rotates freely on the line, is there a downside to just screwing it back into the MC?

Was going to torch it with a mini butane torch instead of MAP pro, put some vise grips on the nut and try to pull back. If I am unable to back off the nut and the flare is not cracked, am I able to screw the line back in? The nut rotates freely so I can screw it in and out of the MC.

I don't have a bi-directional scanner so I will need a shop to bleed the ABS unit. It was my understanding that you only need to bleed the ABS unit if you activate ABS and there is air in the system. That has not occurred with me driving, but it is not something that I considered from the previous owner, which is why I did not bleed the ABS. If I can't get the nut to back off for whatever reason, is it okay to screw back in to the MC assuming there are no cracks on the flare?

Master cylinder never went dry so I did not bleed ABS. After bleeding pedal stays hard for entire test drive. Don't get an intermittent pedal until after it's been sitting. But that's not the focus of this post.

2011 Suburban 2500 with 234k miles. Bought used. Was chasing air in my brakes no matter how many bleeds I performed. Pedal hardness would be intermittent. Pumping brakes would make the pedal hard. No leaks or bulges in lines or hoses, so replaced master cylinder due to green brake fluid and black material in line. I suspect the internal gaskets disintegrated. No idea why the fluid is green. Removed the flare nuts from the MC cylinder no problem, barely any force needed. Both nuts spun on the steel line. But one nut is stuck on the brake line flare. I've tightened back and forth and it would not release from the flare. I have not tried heat or vice grips; ran out of time, and wanted to properly research before continuing. I have map pro and a small butane torch. My one friend said my only option is to cut the line and create another flare, as the flare could be damaged from the nut and won't seat properly, which could have been the source of my air, but I would really like to avoid that if possible. All of the flaring kits you can rent use a vise, and I cannot find any information on what size the flare should be. Google only results in the GMT 800 series.