BigTopGT

Once I get them back to the truck (I keep the truck in NC), I think I'm going to strip both seats and see what kind of alignment I can get from harness to harness. In another post, someone said the harness was a direct swap and most things worked, so I'll see what I get, take some pics, and report back once I'm sure. I really need to focus on one project at a time, is the real issue. I'm flying back to Florida to drop an LS2 408 into a 2002 Z06 and if I can get it tuned, I may try to drive it back with the seats for the truck stuffed inside.

Quick Google says no lumbar, which blows my mind. Pic is stolen from The Google-Machine.

I'm not 100%,but I'm pretty sure they're power lumbar and reclining, but I'm not 100% on that. I'd look, but they're at my place in south Florida and I'm in NC right now, or course.

It looks like the truck has to have the BCM command to control the seat heaters and so far it doesn't look anyone's figured out how to get the cooling circuit to work. (you need to already have the heated seat option from GM.) For now, I'm going to work on getting the seats installed and working, and I'll worry about the heating and cooling features once White Auto has some availability.

They actually bolt in directly. (the seat base is exactly the same as the 14-18 Silverado, as far as I can tell) Getting the seat to move and articulate doesn't seem to be a huge issue either, but getting the heat and cooling to work is the real trick. Not my pics or video Video: https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTYd4MD2b/ This is a pic: Also just a Pic.

I just picked up a set of 2022 ZL1 seats for my 2018 RCSB and I know the truck has to have the heated seat option so the BCM knows to trigger the heat signal in order to make it plug and play in any way. Since White Auto isn't currently modifying BCMs to turn that signal on, I'm trying to think outside the box in order to get the heat and cooling feature in the seats to work. What I don't know is how the actual on/off is triggered for the respective features works. (negative/positive switched relay?) I'm getting ready to install an Alpine ILX F511 head unit and they offer an accessory that adds "switch" options. I'm pretty sure the Alpine's KAC-001 (External Accessory Control Module) runs a negative switch relay system, so I'm wondering if we can simply bypass the BCM, and wire the heat/cool feature to a relay that activates the heat and (separately) the cooling system in the seats and control it with the head unit. That's not as desirable as being able to use the factory switches, but it'd be a great start towards making the seat functionality improved above simple forward/back/up/down/tilt Thanks for looking!

I've emailed and replied to one of his YouTube videos and never heard back. (I'm sure I just missed it) As an aside, the answer is: You need two USB wires in addition to the harness to make it all work. (Either from HarnessDr or Amazon) The black wire that's plugged into the HMI when you get started runs under the jump seat you remove, so it doesn't work for the full center console. (the connector is different on the console side) You unplug that black wire at the HMI and use a stand alone USB wire to go from the HMI to the back of the dual ports located at the far left side of the new console. The USB wire to replace the existing Black connection behind the glovebox is part numer 19119050 and came back as discontinued by GM when I tried to actually order it. I found one for 28 bucks shipped on ebay, but god only knows how long they'll be available in the future. You also need that second USB wire that goes from the output port that connects the front data feed to the ones inside the console itself, under the giant lid. (it goes from the left-side USB-C port to the brown connector inside the console itsef.) Once you do that, you're all set. Hopefully this clarifies a few things rooks like me don't know or, speaking directly to myself here: aren't such potatoes that we completely miss that HarnessDr said "you don't reuse this black wire" in his video. LOL!!! Thanks again, gang!!

Any updates here? If love to see this setup with an LT4 blower strapped to it!!!

Thanks, gents. It was worth a shot.

Thanks man Looks like I've got everything ordered.

Bringing one back from the dead: What is is it that makes a 2017-2019 LT4 blower not work? (off a Corvette) They seem super cheap to buy right now and I'd like to slap one on my L83 while I wait for it to blow up and get replaced with an L86.

I know PG makes a plug and play harness to make a jump seat truck work with the full center console setup, but if I have access to a totalled truck, can I simply remove and reuse the part of the harness I need to make it all work using factory parts, or is it a harness that's integrated in the main harness and can't be separated? Also, is the HMI worth an upgrade? (I can snag the HMI out of the donor truck, which is a 2019 High Country) Thanks for help with new questions!

Hey guys, Does anyone know if I need all 3 of these wires or do any of them exist in the truck already? Mine is A 2018 with Android Auto/Apple Carplay and I don't want to order the wires if I don't need to. Thanks!!

I agree they're the bees knees, but even with me being a Corsa distributor and getting things at cost: I can't justify it for what I'm doing with the truck right now. For the amout of metal I need for a regular cab, short bed...

The drone is a killer, man. Keep us posted in the change after you exit out from under the truck. Oh, and those tips are available on eBay for like 2 or 300 bucks.

That's awesome, man! I really want to run some angled tips that exit in front of the tires so it aligns with the body, so that's good news. All stainless? Here's what I was thinking for tips:

Looking good, dude! How low are you? Any room to turn out in front of the back tire or does it have to dump under the truck?

That'd be great. Appreciate the update!

Thanks man I assume that's from the y pipe back?

If you haven't found these yet, I've got a Cadillac dealer that charges me like 55 bucks each, if that helps.

Thanks dude. Do you mind if I ask what it's costing you for them to custom Fab the exhaust?

That's a good point. I've got a regular cab, so that's been the entirety of my focus. I hadn't considered what it'll take to make this work for an extra or double cab

I was thinking I could use stainless rivnuts on the truck side, so I can use a nice button-head faster on the carbon side so it'd look intentional. I bet I can even build an angled trap at the boom to centralize the drain system. (and minimize drilling a bunch of holes in th floor)

If I make a carbon pan, I'll clear coat it and make sure everyone can see it.

I'm going to order some carbon fiber panels and see if I can make something that's nicer and stronger at work.