I am going to be replacing my upper control arms and it looks like I'll go with either Zone or JBA. Has anybody used either of these on the GMT-900 trucks? Most aftermarket UC will not work with factory wheels and suggest either new wheels or spacers which I don't want to use. My truck is leveled with adjustable coilovers. I like the Zone arms because they use factory-style bushing at the frame mount. I like the JBA arms because they use bolt-in style ball-joints which would make replacing super easy if needed. My only concern is that the JBA does not use factory-style frame bushin
Bump... Nobody has these control arms or seen them? Any suggestions on removing the ball joint without having to take them to a shop?
I need to replace my lower ball joints and while I have everything apart, I'm going to replace one of my upper ball joints in my RC forged UC. A while back I noticed the boot was torn so as a temporary fix I replaced it with an Energy Suspension boot. It's a close fit and keeps the grease in but I want to replace it the right way. So, my problem with replacing the balljoint in the RC forged arm is that I cannot get a cup from a press to sit. RC's design prevents that from happening due to the angle of the arm against the balljoint cup and the fact that the lip is very narrow and rounded ma
I am wanting a new set of LED taillights and came across this company. I'd like to go with the C-Style lights and these are the only ones I can find in this style. https://www.hidkitzstore.com/product/07-13-chevrolet-silverado-led-tail-lights-c-style I saw some on a truck the other day (they were OEM but can't remember the truck) and thought they would look good. I'd love to find some where the "C" is orange.
I currently have a RetraxPro MX. It's leaking pretty bad between the individual panels so Retrax sent me another replacement. But, they sent me the RetraxONE MX which is the Polycarbonate version. I'm on my 3rd replacement aluminum cover due to leaking between the panels. When I pulled it out of the box, I noticed that it seems to be one solid piece vs the individual panels on the aluminum one. My questions is, since the polycarbonate cover is one solid piece, does it tend to be more "waterproof" than the aluminum with the individual panels and the rubber seal between? It seems that most
I have been searching for a vinyl that matches the Greystone metallic on the GMT-900 trucks. I've gotten samples from Avery but nothing really matches. I've gotten a few individual samples from 3M but so far nothing has matched. I'm waiting on a color wheel from them to see if there are any colors I might have missed and hopefully something matches. Are there any other vinyl manufactures I've missed that might have a color that matches Greystone Metallic?
I need a gun safe but there are a lot of options. I'm working within a specific space so it needs to be 60" high and 30" wide, max. That puts me in a 24-30 gun capacity. I also need it to be delivered and put in place. I've found a few locally and came across Champion and Cannon. I have heard of these but don't know much about them or can't find much online in the form of reviews on forums, etc. Does anybody have either of these brands and know much about them? I also want to stay under $1,200.
I am upgrading my lighting and going with LED in my stock halogen housings. I am not planning on doing any sort of HID retrofit at this time so that is not an option right now. I tried the Morimoto 2Strokes but wasn't happen with the beam pattern and hotspot. The cutoff was decent though. I am now looking at either the GTR Lighting Ultra 2 or the S-V.4. Has anybody used either the GTR or the S-V.4's in the stock housings? How did you like them and what was the beam pattern, hotspot and cutoff like?
I am in the process of colormatching the headlights on my 2008 Silverado. While I have them apart I am going to add a Diode Dynamics amber LED strip on the center bar that separates the high and low beam. I want them to come on as a running light when my park/running lamps are on and then also flash as a turn signal. On the amber strip, there are four wires. I'm thinking Low power as the running light and high as a turn. This is the wiring on the amber strips: 1. White - Low power 2. Black - Ground 3. Yellow - Turn signal 4. Red - High power
I am in the process of colormatching the headlights on my 2008 Silverado. While I have them apart I am going to add a Diode Dynamics amber LED strip on the center bar that separates the high and low beam. I want them to come on as a running light when my park/running lamps are on and then also flash as a turn signal. On the amber strip, there are four wires. I'm thinking Low power as the running light and high as a turn. 1. White - Low power 2. Black - Ground 3. Yellow - Turn signal 4. Red - High power I haven't had a chance to test the wires
I'd like to go with OE but I also would like a new truck in the near future so not sure I want to drop $500+ on a new windshield. But not sure if it's worth twice what the Pilkington costs. I'm not sure who makes the OE glass these days and what brand I would get if I went through the dealer.
I need to replace my windshield on my 2008 Silverado. The crack is a good 6"+ so it needs to be replaced. I called my local dealer and they gave me the contact of the local glass installer they use for all windshield replacements through the dealer. Gave them a call and they said $579 for OE/dealer glass or $220 for Pilkington. I know Pilkington was an OE supplier at some point for GM (my side windows are all Pilkington) but my windshield is Guardian. Is Pilkington still an OE supplier of windshields? I also called Pilkington and they told me they show the same glass
How is the cover when it comes to water intrusion? I know no cover is watertight but how does is do with keeping water out and the bed dry?
I have coilovers on my truck to level. They gave me a little over 2.5" of lift up front so I installed a diff drop to lower the angles a bit. Because of that, obviously the diff sits lower so I had to also put spacers to drop the skid plate a bit but the diff is still contacting it. There are two holes that are not being used that looks like the are mounting holes for different applications but are not being used on my truck. In the two pictures are my estimated and possible cut lines to help with some clearance and hopefully not have to drop the skidplate as much. Doe
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