DeePa

Thank you. I still can’t find a part number listed for 6f1 and 7f1 suspension rpo codes.

Hey everyone, I have a 17 crew cab slt 4WD z71 with 175k. Had Bilsteins 5100s on since 25k and they’re shot. looking for new top mounts, springs, bumper, isolator, and another set of 5100s. Looking for insight on everything needed to make up a set of complete struts so I can just swap them out as an assembly. trying to find the correct springs without any luck. My suspension code is 6F1 and 7F1. 3GTU2NEC0HG239633 any help would be appreciated. thanks mike

here’s a video from this afternoon. Here’s another pic of how clean it is under the valve cover. shameful GM. 147 K on the clock.

Add another to the list. 2017 5.3 with 147k on the clock. Religious maintenance. Cyl 6 dead misfire. Swapped coils, still junk. Replaced injector, still junk. another GM AFM lifter failure. Probably wiped the cam too. AFM was tuned out in March of 2019 with about 75k on the clock. Truck needed a 6 speed trans replacement at 107k too. I’ve maintained everything possible on this truck. No rust. No rot. Only two small dents and one scratch. engineered to fail. time for a rebuild of the motor with non AFM parts. What have you all been using? Truck is tuned for an extra 30 hp 30 TQ and I’m not really looking to put a bigger cam or anything like that. Maybe a 6.2 intake if that would make a noticeable difference and be worth the $$$. I have a 383 C4 that I can flog on if I feel the need. local mechanic / engine shop will be doing the work but offered for me to get all of the parts. Plans are AFM deleted cam / lifters, machine and blast the carbon out of the heads, oil pump / timing chain / any bearings and gaskets needed. about 6 months ago, I noticed slightly lower oil pressure. I’m wondering if that was the start of the lifter failure. I love this stupid truck. I drive a lot. It’s a pleasure to drive. But for two major components to **** off at under 150k? That rots. I don’t want this to be my last GM as I think all 3 of the big 3 suck overall, but it may be time to go back to a 20 year old truck like my 04 5.3 and keep it simple. It even got better gas mileage than this new tech bullshit. thanks mike

I just read it’s a HD. My suggestion may not be correct, but you can check resistance of the negative battery cable as a test.

Replace your negative battery cable and clean the two ground points where it bolts to the block and frame on the passenger side.

Yea, that was oil after 6k. currently the oil has about 1000 miles on it

Another note. This oil is fresh with about 80 pct on the OLM wine the truck is dipping to 20-25 psi. I’m really hoping it’s just the heat. I see what everyone is saying about 10 psi per k rpm’s but my truck always hot idles at 35-40 psi up until about 120k

The oil (5w30 full syn) had life left when I would change it at 6000 miles. This truck has never gone over the oil life monitor and never past 7500 miles between changes. The oil analysis said it still has another 1-2k miles when I changed it at 6000. I’m hoping the lead content was from that shitty gas station that would cause my truck to throw car efficiency codes. Blackstone said they see high lead ppm when people use octane boosters. I’m thinking the gas station was doing something stupid to make their 93. they also said our bearings are aluminum so the lead is likely from octane booster or leaded fuel

So as my 17 5.3 with 140k gets older - I’m down to 20 - 22 psi at hot idle after an hour drive and 90-95 deg ambient. i run 5w30 and have since 70k. Truck is tuned and no AFM anymore. I don’t remember ever being below 30 psi in past summers. what could be going on? A lot of these posts are newer trucks and concerns. Mines probably around the halfway point of it’s lifetime. I need another 140-160k out of this thing. Does anyone have any additional info on oil pressure at hot idle as these trucks get older? My oil pump still does it’s self check and hit 60-65 psi over 4K rpm’s. Driving on the highway it still runs at 40 psi. thoughts? any issues with oil pumps? I need to send out an oil analysis again at the next change. The first time I did I had high lead content but I think that was from a shitty gas station I was frequenting and getting my 89 required for the tune. It was also throwing cat efficiency codes which have since stopped since switching gas stations. thoughts?

Idk man. You have AFM lifters. I wouldn’t **** with that stabilizer ******.

My stock front wheel bearings made it to 135k. 2017 Sierra with a level and one size larger tires havent touched any other front end stuff minus the bilstein front level and rear shocks the sway bar links broke at around 110k wheel bearings were an easy change. Drivers side was greased from the factory and practically fell off when the bolts were removed. The passenger side needed a few thumps. backing plates were starting to rust. Cleaned and painted but I’ll end up replacing them someday. check your rear axle seals. My drivers side was gone at 135k. Passenger was right behind it. I guess they make a bearing / seal repair unit that will move the seal on the axle shaft to an area that isn’t grooved out. I’ll cross that bridge if the new seal doesn’t hold up

That’s how my drivers side was. Pull the caliper and rotor and look for dried up grease dust slung all over the backing plate.

I hear you. They’re mostly highway miles. Never hit anything. my 91 vettes hub assemblies (all4) did the same thing around 130k. Seals went, puked the grease, and started to hum under acceleration and get sloppy. there wasn’t any play in the trucks. It was just starting to get very noisy around 45-60 while accelerating. the car quest unit was very nice. I made sure to torque the axle hub to 180 ft lbs so hopefully that prolongs the life of them vs hammering down with an impact.

Just to chime in 2017 Sierra crew cab. 138k. one size larger tires and bilstein leveling kit in the front. Just replaced the two front wheel bearings due to noise while accelerating. Drivers side was worse, puked all the grease out of the inner seal. Passenger just started doing the same thing. also, both rear axle seals are leaking. I haven’t pulled the axles yet to see if it’s a seal issue or axle issue but that’s on the list for tomorrow. I bought car quest branded hubs at advanced auto. They’re coated and look really well built. truck has been really solid so far minus a few things. brakes at 60k. Vac pump under warranty. Condenser under extended . On 3rd set of oil cooler lines, one under warranty when they did the vac pump, one under extended. Trans replaced at 107k under extended warranty. Installed lower trans stat and added a deep pan for extra fluid / cooling.