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About TriumphoverU

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  • Birthday 12/03/1979

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  1. TriumphoverU Nice job man I trying to the same for my truck, I drive and 2007 Silverado, I bought new but I got tired of manual lock and manual windows and mirrors, so I went to a junk yard and took a part a lt Silverado and bought the door panels with the electric windows and locks electric mirrors, the center console, the speedometer, and all the silver trims for the truck. I made all of the above work just the electric looks couldn't. And the steering wheel that I bought was the volume controls, and I also took from the truck in the junk yard the clock spring, and I been reading this log, I decided it's time to get mi volume controls working, Thanks to you But I just have a couple of doubts, the first picture in this post that you added is the connector of the clock spring right or is it from the radio? Please man, guides me a little bit so I won't mess up my truck. I would appreciate it. Thank The pictures I have posted are all from in behind the air bag. Which would be where the harness plugs into the clock spring. I never messed with removing the radio at all.
  2. I snagged my buttons off of ebay, but you can order them from gmpartsdirect or from your local dealer.
  3. You can splice into the remaining wires anywhere in the wire as long as you get the correct color wire. The oem connector to the radio controls (which we do not have) is not labeled, but looking at it from the top/front of the steering wheel the wire colors are: Black, Brown, Pink w/Black stripe, and Light Green. I simply used a utility knife and stripped a little bit of insulation off of the wire wherever it was convenient. The soldered the new wire to this spot and taped them up good. Take the wire you have placed in the top most position in the switch and splice it into the black wire in the existing harness. The wire you put in the second place from the top should be spliced into the brown wire in the existing harness. Third wire will be spliced into the pink w/black stripe wire in the existing harness. And the Fourth (or furthest to the bottom) wire will be the new wire that goes into the "c" position. The reason we have 3 common wires in the rest of the steering wheel are because 2 of the common wires are used for backlighting in the radio control switch, and one supplies either a common power or ground to both the cruise and the radio switches. Hope this helps, Dean
  4. TriumphoverU - Firstly awesome work. I am trying to do the same thing. I e-mailed my dealer to try and buy the wiring harness and radio switch and on top of quoting me astronomical prices (they won't sell the harness separate from the steering wheel) they also said: "IF you are able to remove the airbag without detonating it, there remains the issue of programming the Body Control Module - the new additions will not be recognized and will not function without the download from GM. The download itself will not take unless it is registered by GM for a fee." Is this a scare tactic? I gathered from your post that this was simply plug and play. Do you require a download? Thanks. It is a scare tactic, there is no reprogramming needed. Wire it up and go, simple as that.
  5. Well i bought a few things, I bought the buttons, and the metal connectors i used to plug into the buttons. These connectors were pretty easy to find since all i needed was something that fit snugly onto the prongs inside the buttons. The connector that i needed for the plug that goes into the clockswitch was a different story. I had a very patient parts counter person who looked for about 45 minutes for this very hard to find connector. This is the wire that is not included in our factory harness, so it must be added. It is the one that goes inside this plug (highlighted in red) The part number on this little connector was 15305174. I don't know if that is a GM Part number or a delphi part number, but hopefully it gets you started in the right direction. For the shroud, i took a piece of paper and traced the cutout for the cruise control side and then traced it onto the other side of the shroud. I'll see if I can get a picture tomorrow. The cutout isn't perfect by any means, but you cant really see it because of its location. Here are the connectors I bought from the dealer. Soldered them onto the wire and then added some heat shrink tubing afterward. After I added the heat shrink tubing, i pushed each wire I made onto the prongs inside the buttons. After I got them all pushed in all the way, i took some ultra black silicone and filled the rest of the cavity where the factory gm connector would go. I did this to lock the wires in place so that they wouldn't vibrate out or get pulled out accidentally. Then I spliced the three wires i needed into the factory harness. Re-wrapped the harness with electrical tape and reassembled. Edit: I belive the part number I listed above is a delphi part number http://connectors2.delphi.com/dcsgdmcs/del...S01_S01.tif.pdf
  6. Ok fellas, all done, SUCCESS! Works great! Here's the finished product did a little splicing, added the one wire that was missing cut a hole in the back steering wheel cover, and ta daaa its all done!
  7. For those of you thinking about adding the switches with out swapping wheels, i'm in the process of doing this right now. Ran into a couple hurdles but so far so good. I made my own harness that plugs into the radio controls and used a dremel tool to cut the hole in the back steering wheel cover for the controls to fit into. My harness does not have the plug for the radio controls in it so I'm going to have to splice 3 of the 4 wires. Here's where the hurdle comes in. My harness also does not have the light green wire in the main connector labeled "C" which is needed for the radio controls. I'm going to add this wire myself, but need to run to the dealership to see if i can find the aluminum connector that will fit inside the plastic piece. I'll keep everyone posted on how this goes, so far so good.
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