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zedbear

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    WNY
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    2013 Sierra

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  1. Yeah, i had a 2000 sierra with the 5.3 and warmup was pretty slow but steady and the temp would never drop once it was warmed up.
  2. Coolant is full. No leaks. It has an engine oil cooler so was wondering if that coud be part of it also. Was just gathering information prior to calling dealer since they'll probably say there's nothing wrong.
  3. Just wondering if there is a problem here or if this is normal. Truck has 15k miles, aluminium block 5.3 afm. When the outside temp is below 25, it takes forever to warmup. My commute to work is about 6 miles of mostly stop and go driving with a brief stretch of highway. When i arrive, the coolant temp gauge will often still not be at the normal operating position and the heater is still blowing only semi warm air. If it does reach the normal position, once i park and idle for a minute it will actually begin to drop again, like the engine cant provide enough heat to keep up with the heater. Is this normal? Seems like the tstat is sticking open to me.....
  4. I did some research before and found a few references to a tsb regarding this problem but i think it only applies to models from a few years ago. I like the idea of a tune but am afraid of putting the warranty at risk....
  5. Anyone know if there is a fix for this? 2013 Sierra, 5.3L, 6 speed auto. I bought it last winter. It now has about 12K miles. Not overly impressed with the transmission performance in general but its had this 2-3 shift flare almost since day one and seems to be happening more often now. It usually does it when the transmission temp is under 100F but sometimes over that temp. It doesn't do it every time. The only time I know it will happen for sure is when I come home and park the truck for an hour or so and then drive away and it happens during the first 2-3 shift every time. When the flare occurs, it almost feels as if the transmission goes into neutral for a second and the rpm jumps way up. The shift quality overall kinda sucks. Driving it around town is a chore. I know a tune would helps things but this 2-3 thing seems like there is something wrong........
  6. Interesting, there is a Krown dealer right around the corner from me. I shall have to stop by there, thanks.
  7. My 2013 with the 6 speed does the same BS with the cruise on. Its annoying. My 2000 with the 5.3 and 4 speed was way more responsive as far as cruise (and other things).
  8. I was waxing the truck the other day and noticed there are already some small chips in the paint near the bottom of the doors. I do have mudflaps. In the past I've noticed some vehicles that had some sort of anti-chip coating applied along the lower quarter of the doors/bed. Perhaps Line-X or similar? What about that paint protection film? Any good? I plan to keep this thing a long time and its going to need all the help it can get being in the salt capital of Buffalo. Also, what about having the underside of the truck "oiled"? I hear people have good luck with that but what about this weird factory undercoating that is like cake frosting? When I changed the oil recently, some splashed on a nearby part of the frame and that stuff just seems to melt...... Thanks for any tips.
  9. I miss my 800. That thing was a driver's truck. The 4 speed and 3.73s were perfect, it handled better, and was much easier to maneuver than this 2013 tank lol. If the 2000 hadn't been rusting away I'd still have it.
  10. Funny, mine actually blows colder when I accelerate (not flooring it) but blows warm humid air sometimes when I'm coasting and cools poorly at idle. My 2000's AC was like a blast freezer at all times. I can also hear a slight whistle sound coming from the area of the control head on the dash that changes pitch with RPM......vacuum leak perhaps?
  11. I find the visibility out of the cab in my 2013 is not as good as my 2000 was. This thing is a tank. Sure rides better though.
  12. Its very cold if I've been driving it for awhile. The most annoying thing is when it seems to cut out for a moment when coasting. It has to be related to the time when it wouldn't work at all for a couple hours. I wish it would just quit working again so they could find the problem. I was in Texas last week and it was hot. It seemed to perform pretty well except for that coasting thing sometimes. I'm just going to let it go for now and see what develops. I use auto mode but sometimes manual. Doesn't seem to make a difference.
  13. Been having an issue with my A/C. Bought the truck new this past winter. Has auto climate controls. It was a cold spring but we got one good 80+ degree day in April and was finally able to try out the A/C for a bit. Worked great. I stopped for gas and then restarted and drove off. Noticed the A/C was blowing warm. Played with the controls a bit but nothing. Stopped and popped hood and found the compressor wasn't running. Drove it 15 miles home and the whole way it still wouldn't work. Parked it and 2 hours later drove it again and it was suddenly working again.... The rest of the spring and into early summer was pretty cool and the a/c was barely used. When it finally started warming up, I started using it more and noticed a few things. First, often when I let off the gas and am coasting, it will start blowing warm humid air for 5-10 seconds. If I'm coasting to a stop and sit there at a light for a bit, it will often not recover sufficiently until I start driving again. For example, the other day I made a left turn and then had to stop suddenly behind a stopped car making a left. Warm humid air started coming out. It didn't really start cooling well again until I punched it after the car finally turned and got a sudden blast of ice cold air...... I also have noticed it takes forever to really start blowing cold when I first start it after sitting. It will blow coolish but not cold. I have confirmed the cooling fans are working. Temp probe in center vent shows 40 degrees when its cooling right, sometimes a little less. When it starts blowing warm, it rises to 50+ before it recovers. Something is not right. Never had a vehicle that behaved like this before. I took it to the dealer and they gave me the usual "operating as designed" BS. When I asked, they didn't even hook a gauge set up to it. Its driving me crazy, especially in traffic when it keeps blowing clammy air almost every time I let off the gas. I've noticed at idle that if I raise the rpm to 1000+, it will blow pretty cold. I understand cooling performance will degrade a bit at idle but this seems messed up.
  14. Had I actually conceived that something like this would have been mentioned in the owners manual, I would have checked. And no, I don't read it front to back but I read most of the areas related to operating the vehicle's systems like the auto A/C and the transmission modes, etc. Makes for good bathroom reading time, lol. I don't need to know about how to use a seat belt or about "highway hypnosis" and such. I will have to check the manual on this tomorrow. My first battery really was defective, though.
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