ChevroletTough

Thanks! I did some more digging and found the same answer after some searches.

Hey guys. Well I decided to swap the fluid in my plow truck. Fill plug came out no problem. I am sucking the fluid out and refilling. I have an axel seal to do as well. I am opting for 75w140 synthetic, my question is how much? My 1/2 ton spec is 1” below the diff filler. Which was just over 2 quarts. Obviously this diff is bigger

Hey, I never got a notification of this response. It's been awhile, but things are better. I did end up replacing the MAP sensor when I had the intake plenum off. I am looking at injectors now to fix the hot start issue. The plenum will have to come off again, but it's really not that hard. I've never done injectors before, but it looks mostly straight forward. I also redid the entire AC unit, compressor, condenser, dryer, and upper AC hose. Works like a dream. I also had to replace the radiator.. it was cracked internally.

That's what I'd think as well (the cog), did you replace (upgrade) your tire size at all?

I can only hope lol. Has 123,******. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pulled the enclosed with both wheelers for about 3 hours. Shifted flawless. So far no leakage. [emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd suggest a new thrermostat. I'd also check the radiator with the cap off with the engine running (don't start it up until the engine is cold). Could be hydrolocked possibly. As far as losing coolant, could be the water pump weep hole. I recently did my 7.4lL water pump, the weep hole was leaking. I did upper and lower hoses and the bypass hose. New thrermostat as well. Also ended up having to replace the radiator as the oil cooler line was leaking (radiator was actually cracked under the plastic shroud). IF you have a leak, you should see coolant on the ground. You may not notice it on the ground if the water pump weep hole is weeping. The coolant would probably just burn off before it got to the ground.

Not lowered. It’s just thinner and designed different so there’s space. P.S. all amsoil fluids in this truck, front diff, trans, rear diff, t case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a bolt out kit but didn’t have the right size. I’ll have to take a pic of the energy suspension tans mount. Gave a lot more room to get pan bolts out without having to jack trans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Got er done. New mount/bushing in. Makes room to take pan off without jacking transmission. It was for sure time to change it. Cleaned pan and magnet. New gasket. Pan bolts torque to 12 ft lbs. checked them all twice. A job well done! Drain pan bolt would NOT break free. I even tried some heat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I figured as much. And planned to do that. Appreciate the info. Gotta get after this! Just did the starter last week. Will just need injectors to fix the hot start issue and I think I'm finally done with this truck's work. Been a long 1st year of ownership. Will be way more enjoyable to plow this year too. Not having to baby it with a bad cv (didn't know that was bad on top of the bearing), and bad wheel bearing. I've reconditioned this thing back to working order!

Hey guys, looking to drop the trans pan on my 2000 k3500. It's got the 4l80e. Some videos show removing the shift bracket, it sure doesn't look like I need to. I will have to unbolt the trans from the cross-member and jack it up to get the rear few trans pan bolts it appears. I bought a new trans bushing/mount anyway. The bushing looks good, but I've slowly been reconditioning this truck over the past year. I figure since I'm in there, do what needs to be done. My pan bolts look to be a bit rusty, I bought a new bolt pan kit. I have the filter, and 8 qts of fluid. I'd like to get this done before it gets too cold and I start plowing. Can anyone confirm if I need to remove the shift linkage? That looks like it will be not enjoyable.

Topped off the radiator and overflow (1/2 gallon). Had to get more and mix it. Going strong! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

p.s. i cleaned the bottom of the radiator tray.

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Got it swapped out. No more leaks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Upon further inspection: It's not the o ring leaking. It's leaking coolant and not oil. The radiator is cracked. I ended up ordering a radiator last week. Shows up today. Going to swap it out. (bottom oil cooler line is going to be a PITA to reach).

I mean tons of people don't even look at what the package is rated and just pull. Obviously that # is there for a reason but I pull over it....

Replaced the o ring and it’s worse now. Going to test more but I might need a new radiator actually. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The line measurement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk