Elboman replied to PR mudder's topic in Gen III and IV Small Block & DrivetrainAssuming your truck came stock with 245/75/R16 which are 30.5 inches tall. Also assuming your truck came with 3.73 gears. Take (stock gear ratio X new / desired tire size ÷ stock tire size = new stock equivilant gear ratio). 3.73 X 35 ÷ 30.5 = 4.28. A 4.28 gear would get you back to stock rpm’s at any given speed. Due to added weight and rolling resistance you may want to go higher. There are a lot of assumptions here so plug the right numbers in to get your best guess and then go to the closest gear ratio available. Taking into account the weight issue of the bigger tires and the aerodynamic loss of lifting your truck I would always go to the next higher ratio availabe. ie a 4.28 ratio is not available so don't go to 4.10 but go the other direction to the next available number which would be 4.56 and you should be fine.
Have 2008 5.3L GMC C1500 with the CEL 449 and 445 codes. Followed the instructions in this thread and it is fixed. Thanks guys, you saved me a bundle. My details are: Went to Advance Auto and ordered the 214-2149 Part for $22.69. They show a 214-2142 for the 08 model that I never tried. It may be a more direct fit/replacement. Don't know and Don't care anymore. The original EVAP vent solenoid was smaller and had two ports. One going to the canistor and one going up next to the tranny with an open end on it. I assume it was trying to get fresh dry air from up there. The 214-2149 part only had the one port. I had to cut the solid plastic hose off of the original as I could not get it off even with soapy water. Only cut a few inches off, just past the nipple of the original assy as to save as much of the original hard plastic hose as possible. You could probably replace the entire hard plastic hose but it is shaped in and "S" and the heater hose would probably fold shut on you, if not at first after time for sure. Installed about 2 or 3 inches of heater hose to connect the original solid plastic hose to the new solenoid. New solenoid slid into the same original bracket and I took the fresh air hose that goes up by tranny and just zip tied it up out of the way. Just in case I need it in the future. The electrical conection was identical and pluged straight in without any modification. As to the location on an 08. Mine was located in the 2B position as per the diragram earlier on in this thread. Just in front of the fuel tank on the left side of the truck. Hope this helps someone else tackle this job. Now that I have money left over for beer I think I will have some. Elbo out.
Not one to post on here much but since you haven't gotten a reply yet here is my .02. If the passenger side still works then most likley it is the driver side actuator. ( not a fuse, switch, key fob etc) It gets used much more often then the passenger side, so it will most likley go out first. If it is not the actuator.... well you didn't loose anthing as it was abviously (as you can see for gm's actuator record) going to go out soon anyway. When my driver side went out it just quit one day like yours. Never noticed it being sluggish but then again why would I look for something like that when most door locks last over 100,00 miles or 10 years whichever comes last! Elbo
Driver side out at 36175 miles. Could this be a saftey hazard as now I can remote start the truck with the door still unlocked? On the good side the dealer said they would cover me, this time. Got to wait on parts. Going in Thursday. It looks like we all need to swap out the actuators every other time we change the oil just to be on the safe side. You would think I would at least wear out a set of tires before the door locks started going. Can't wait to see the tutorial. Something I deffinetly need to learn how to do myself. Great site, thanks for all of the info from everybody.
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