AirForceAngler

Lol, yeah. I'm hanging by a thin thread there. Prohibited from posting on any COVID posts now because I called him out on his false statistics. Of course he closes and deletes those anymore. Oh well.

Careful there. If you start making too much sense, Al will come over here and try to ban you again.

On my 2016 Suburban, there is a fuse in the fuse panel that's on the driver's side of the dash that you move from 2 posts to another 2 posts and changes the center power port from part time to constant. It's the large fuse in the upper rigth corner. Don't have a pic of it at the moment, sorry. I think if you google it you'll find it.

They're full of crap by saying it's the tint. Have them test the stuff with the windows down if they think it's the tint.

If you have the factory installed brake controller, you have the Max Towing package.

If I were in your situation, I'd do exactly what you suggested; regear, add a brake controller and maybe airbags if needed. A trailer that size is going to need a weight distribution hitch anyhow so the air bags may not be needed. This would be a lot cheaper than the depreciation hit you'd take if you traded in on another Sub so soon. Do some research and see if there's an existing plug-in under the dash for an aftermarket brake controller. This would make it much easier to add one. My 2008 Silverado had a harness tucked under the dash to connect to the controller then a fuse was added to the correct place in the fuse block. If your Sub is 4x4, you will need to regear both front and back but that shouldn't run more than $2500 at a reputable shop, maybe cheaper if you shop around. I had my 2010 Wrangler regeared front and rear for around $1400.