AirForceAngler

Yes, I'm sure it is the unit. It is now removed and ready to be returned.

Most commonly around 62-64 MPH or so. It has done it as high as 75 MPH. It seems to do it when I would assume the DFM would kick in, like straight or slightly downhill areas. I heard back from Range and they admitted it was a problem on certain, early 6.2s with the 10 speed. It has something to do with the early TCM programming. Feels to me like it's the torque converter locking and unlocking. Going to return it for refund, hopefully.

Ok, so I have a 2021 Silverado with the L87 6.2 and 10 Speed with about 48K miles on it right now. At 9K it had the right bank of lifters and pushrods replaced, then a few months ago, an actuator for one of the valves on cylinder #8, can't remember which one. Hoping to avoid more of this, I ordered the Range Technology disabler RA003B. After running this a bit, I noticed that it surges when cruising. I have emailed Range about it and will call them tomorrow, but was wondering if there is a device that actually works well? I do have a very good extended warranty that I don't want to void as well. Thanks in advance for any advice!

I'm trying to update the "DRIVES:" portion of my profile since I no longer have a 2016 Suburban but when I do and click save, I get an Error 404. What am I missing? Thanks!

As has been mentioned, most rental trailers have surge brakes so you don't need to worry about electronic brake controller. For backing a trailer, I was taught to put my hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and which ever way you want the trailer to go, move your hand that way. Go slow and keep your eyes on the mirrors. When driving, keep more space between you and the vehicle in front of you than normal as your braking distance is now quite longer.

It will work fine with Android 12.

A few months ago my truck went into the shop to have half of the lifters replaced (not all, but that's another stupid GM idea) and while it was there they did an update to the radio/infotainment system. After that, the backup lines on the screen are very thin and very hard to see. Both the double backup lines and the single, trailer-hookup line. Today my truck was back in the shop to try to fix a no-start issue and I asked them to relook at the backup camera system as well. According to the Tech and GM Technical Assistance, the new lines are normal. Anyone else dealt with that? Is there a way to un-update the system? The new lines are almost useless. Really missing my Tundra these days.

U-Haul car trailers are usually set up well for securing the vehicle. I recommend checking it about 5-10 miles down the road after first loading it, then every fuel stop after that. On those descents, familiarize yourself with manually shifting your transmission. Use lower gears to maintain safe speed as much as possible going downhill. This will save your brakes. Best advice is just don't get in a hurry and don't forget what's behind you when changing lanes, turning, etc. Good luck!

There are only two kinds of sunroofs. Those that leak, and those that are going to leak.

When you get into towing bigger and heavier trailers, it isn't so much about the drivetrain as it is brakes, tires and suspension and being able to control and stop the trailer. It might help if we knew what weight you were looking to pull and what truck you have. I've been pulling a 26" box trailer that weighs around 7K loaded and doing pretty well so far with my 2021 RST/Z71 with the 6.2 and 10 speed. It can get sporty in the wind, however but I do use sway control and a good weight distribution hitch.

Uh, I'm not the OP on this thread. OP had two, this one and here.

Ya just have to love these. "Hey I cut my exhaust off and now it's too loud, what should I do?" And let's start extra threads on the same topic so I can get more attention, too! SMH.

A picture of what you're talking about might help.

Got the truck back. GM would only replace 8 lifters on bank 2. Not too happy about that but we'll see what happens.

Heard from the shop after dropping it off. Getting 16 new lifters in it. Hopefully to be done by this Friday. Fingers crossed.

The one I bought off of Amazon years ago still works great. I think it was less than $30. With things like that, I don't get the most expensive or the cheapest but somewhere in between and have good luck.

Here's my advice: Quit Eff'ing with the tune and the truck! Put cats back on it and leave it alone.

Yeah, it's bumper to bumper, but it was also 10:30 pm, I was pulling a trailer and it was 25 degrees out. Didn't really feel like waiting for a tow. And given that it's bumper to bumper, if I grenade the engine, they can put a whole new one in it.

2021 6.2, Driving along last night and truck started running rough then Service ESC and Service Parking Brake lights came on along with the flashing CEL so it's almost positive my lifters have gone bad. I was about 25 miles from home when it started and I finished the trip because it was late and very cold out. Tomorrow it'll go about another 4 miles to the local dealer for diagnosis and repair. How far have others gone and was there additional damage?

DFM has absolutely nothing to do with octane requirements. Octane requirements are a result of compression ratios and the 6.2 has 11.5:1 compression. The 5.3 and 6.6 have around 10:1 or so. The higher the compression, the higher the octane requirement. Octane ratings are a measure of a fuel's resistance to pre-detonation. Higher compression also increases the heat in the cylinder as the piston moves up and lower octane fuels can ignite too soon; pre-detonation.

That's a nice ride! Congrats!

Oh, I thought you were talking about someone putting 10" tips on their exhaust. Can't get much more suspicious than that.

I've had apps that have quit working or required an update in the when my phone's OS was updated. It is usually up to the creators of the Apps to update their product to be compatible with the current OS. Similarly, it should be up to MVI to create a product or product support that will keep working when a vehicles software is updated. I still don't see this as GM's issue, but MVI's.

Switching to bluetooth after unplugging may be a function of either your phone or your CRV, I'm not sure there. And it may depend on the settings of either one, too. Regarding CarPlay (and Android Auto), it does use your phones navigation on the infotainment screen, along with other Apps as well. CarPlay and AA basically mirror your phone's screen on the radio screen. Some apps that work with this are Maps, Waze, Spotify, Apple Music and others. Instead of fumbling around on your phone's screen, you can now view your Maps, or select songs/playlists on the larger radio screen instead of fumbling around on your phone. It also means you don't have to have your phone mounted on your dash to see it. Everything is on your radio screen now.

So you'd rather spend several hundred dollars for a junk Nav program that'll get overwritten instead of a $10 USB cord? Ok. Gotcha. By the way, wireless AA or AC is junk, too. Drains the battery quickly so you need a cord anyhow.