PunchT37

Yep. For dealer mechanics mostly.

Saw a lowered black regular cab T1 yesterday. Even though lowered trucks are a blast from the past, that modern black regular cab looked badass.

Gold bowties are cool. And, no stickers. Even though, that`s why most buy a 4 wheel drive.

I got a flashback to Smokey and the Bandit.

Got a `25. Been looking on the history of 2 computers I use to find the TSB. Ain`t there. I did read it and it says oil pump prime. But, if a pump loses prime, it won`t pump. They can cavitate and make noise though. Can sound like marbles. Most won`t pull air on the suction side. That`s why you have to prime a new oil pump after a change or an engine rebuild. I was thinking out loud on my post. I was in the game for a long time. I take pride in troubleshooting. It`s a challenge. Course, I did state that I could be wrong. I want people to think. Iv`e seen tsb`s and recalls not be correct.

Those are parts changers. It can get expensive though. I was a mechanic for 30 yrs. My truck has made this noise since new. I really don`t know what it is. It really doesn`t bother me. I`m still in warranty but have not brought it to the dealer. I`m not buying the oil pump prime thing. Screw the TSB. I believe it`s in the trans pump gears. They rattle when that piss poor ULV oil drains off after a while. I believe those sharp tooth gears, with backlash, can rattle when dry. Not a vane style oil pump. Wonder who`s right? Me, or the TSB? Maybe I`m wrong?

Mine suprised me the other day and did it. It`s hot down here now. It only did it once. But, it will usually do it after sitting overnight in the colder weather. Never usually does it in the warmer weather.

Mine has done that since new. The colder the worse.

If that guage has a way to adjust [hex on bottom], put that thing in a glass full of ice, put water in, put your gage in, let it sit for 3 minutes or so, and set it to 33 degrees.

That a/c has got a problem. It should be able to put out at least mid 40`s temp on a day like that. Vent temp, that is.

My last oil change I did at 10,520 miles on vehicle. 3135 miles on oil. OLM says 44% remaining. `25 Silverado 5.3. 4 oil changes on this thing at this mileage.

Oh please. Wonder what temp they measured the drop over? Not bustin your ball$.

My guess is they have changed the oil life monitor in the later trucks for environmental purposes. My 2000 Silverado oil change light comes on around 2800 to 3600 miles. Once, it went to 4200. I`ll still use that system but not the `25 Silverado.

My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance. BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.

1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world. We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.

When I first started mechanic work for a living, I remember a guy with a BMW coming in for an oil change. He had his own oil and filter. We had me and 2 other mechanics in that shop. The other 2 left early that day. The guy asked where Brian was. Told him he left early. The guy wasn`t mad. He just left and said he would come back later. I wasn`t insulted either. One brings his stuff to a person, not a place.

Not a bad idea to check codes. But, if you have an old battery and/or electrical gremlins, most of those codes will be false.

Old battery? Check battery connections and frame grounds.

You need to check your tires/rims, and front end parts for damage.

Keep looking. But, you`re gonna run out of inventory fast now. I ordered mine. The only way to get em the way you want em. So, you`ll have to at least get close to what you wanted [or not].

Good for you. I do my own work, if I can.

I think there is a frame ground under the driver`s door. Take that thing off, clean it and put it back. See what happens.

Double trust, huh? I hear ya. Side note, one can get trust off the internet. I belong to a Pontiac message board such as this. I sold a complete running Pontiac 455 that I built in the late `80`s. Most won`t touch a complete engine. Especially an older one. The dude offered me $500 more than I was asking. He paid the truck freight to Lubbock TX. All I did was build a crate for it. I told the dude he was ballsy. He says, "I trust you".

Gotcha. But, as a mechanic, I don`t want anyone touching my stuff. Even under warranty. I have a `25 Silverado, a 2000 Silverado and a `71 Pontiac. All run great. But, you are correct. One would have to see these things.

Unless you`re running a carfax on mine. It won`t even show my 1`st free oil change.