PunchT37

Don`t have any pics of my `77 Cutlass Supreme that I sold to get my 2000 Silverado 1500. Was a nice car. Maybe because it was mine.

Iv`e got a soft spot for Olds.

My bad. Forgot the 4.6 came out in `91 in the Town Car, and `92 for the Crown and Merc.

I used to work on those 4.6, 2V engines. They are tough.

Got 3 more, I could sell.

As you can see, I still got one.

Carbs rule.

Chrome bumpers are cool.

Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.

Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.

I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem. What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear. Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.

This is what they say about their upper line tools. How do TOPDON Phoenix Line subscriptions work? Phoenix tools require a subscription and are renewed annually. Once the subscription is renewed all updates for the tool are covered for the full year. TOPDON’s limited warranty will continue with the subscription. The tools will continue to function without a subscription; however, the tools will not be available for updates, functions may be limited, the tool will no longer be covered by the warranty, and programming functions may be inaccessible I don’t think the tools will “brick”.

I just bought this. A minimum for me but, I don`t work anymore and don`t want the heavy update costs of the higher end tools. You would have to make money with them. https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro Even this tool has a $250.00 update cost after 2 years.

If it is oil and not fuel pooling in there, it almost has to be a head problem. Crack, or loose guide. Those heads are not known for problems, but...

No oil in intake when you took it off?

2000, huh? Thing will run for 300,000 miles.

I just bought one of these. https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro Yeah, it`s got a cable. $250/year after 2 years. Do I want more? Yep. But, I`m not working any more and can`t afford a whirlpool in my tool box.

Looks nice. I still have my 2000, 1500. Bought a 2025, 1500 for retirement. Feels solid. These trucks have a bad rap on the internet. My brother has a `24 1500, 5.3 with 52,000 miles. No problems at all. Mine hasn`t either but mine`s only at 12,700 miles. Have seen some of these things with 100,000 miles with no problems.

When I was there, most to all did not have an hour meter. They just did 5000 miles on regular vehicles and 3000 on police stuff. The modern oil change monitors should take into account engine hours, weather, etc. I don`t use the monitor on my stuff. I pull the stick, look at it, smell it, rub it between my fingers, etc. That`s my oci. I have had many engines. Some bracket race. No problems doing things my way. I was in the mechanic business for 30 yrs or so. I still do things the old school way. Don`t care who laughs at me. Understand, I was in the main shop. We didn`t do oil changes or tires. We had a service station for that. I don`t remember the hours they used for tractors, lawn mowers, etc. Something in my head says 250 hours.

I agree. That`s a LOT of sludge for 12,000 miles. I tossed that out here since this is an OCI thread. There`s tons of people here that do not post. I used to work on a city fleet. That includes police cars and fire trucks. Lesson is, not to only use the odo for oci. A police car has a ton of hours on the engine for the miles it shows. And, not just idling, directing traffic. They beat on these things. Course, since it is a Kia, they were gonna use the "100,000 mile warranty" for their OCI.

Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?

And, lucky they are?

Main reason newer engines need oil changes MORE often than the "olden days".

I hear ya. I remember the air cooled trans. My deal is, I`m not one to run my trans at 212 "to get the water out". If you leave a cold beer out on the bar, will the condensation go away without boiling? I don`t believe in the not hot enough to shift properly or to get the water out. A trans will fail in 2 ways. Either you break it or you roast it. How many have failed from being "too cold"? Oil viscosity? Hmm. How much "thicker" does an oil get as it gets saturated with clutch particles? When it`s time for me to change my 10L80 oil, it will get LV spec oil. Lets see what happens.

Good question. Most to all of what I hear in internet land is to have 212 trans temp to boil off the water. That`s where my earlier comment was coming from.