PunchT37

And, lucky they are?

Main reason newer engines need oil changes MORE often than the "olden days".

I hear ya. I remember the air cooled trans. My deal is, I`m not one to run my trans at 212 "to get the water out". If you leave a cold beer out on the bar, will the condensation go away without boiling? I don`t believe in the not hot enough to shift properly or to get the water out. A trans will fail in 2 ways. Either you break it or you roast it. How many have failed from being "too cold"? Oil viscosity? Hmm. How much "thicker" does an oil get as it gets saturated with clutch particles? When it`s time for me to change my 10L80 oil, it will get LV spec oil. Lets see what happens.

Good question. Most to all of what I hear in internet land is to have 212 trans temp to boil off the water. That`s where my earlier comment was coming from.

Why do they have the gas 10l80 opening at 145?

Mine runs 145 to 158 ,95% of the time. ‘25 1500 with 5.3 and nht option. Wonder how long it will last? Wonder how much water is in the oil? Bought it in Oct 2024. This was today in south Louisiana.

Go into vehicle settings and see if it is activated.

It`s magnetic so it`s not main or rod bearings. I would pop off a valve cover or 2 and take a good look at the rocker arms. See if you can see if any needle bearings are coming apart.

Yep. For dealer mechanics mostly.

Saw a lowered black regular cab T1 yesterday. Even though lowered trucks are a blast from the past, that modern black regular cab looked badass.

Gold bowties are cool. And, no stickers. Even though, that`s why most buy a 4 wheel drive.

I got a flashback to Smokey and the Bandit.

Got a `25. Been looking on the history of 2 computers I use to find the TSB. Ain`t there. I did read it and it says oil pump prime. But, if a pump loses prime, it won`t pump. They can cavitate and make noise though. Can sound like marbles. Most won`t pull air on the suction side. That`s why you have to prime a new oil pump after a change or an engine rebuild. I was thinking out loud on my post. I was in the game for a long time. I take pride in troubleshooting. It`s a challenge. Course, I did state that I could be wrong. I want people to think. Iv`e seen tsb`s and recalls not be correct.

Those are parts changers. It can get expensive though. I was a mechanic for 30 yrs. My truck has made this noise since new. I really don`t know what it is. It really doesn`t bother me. I`m still in warranty but have not brought it to the dealer. I`m not buying the oil pump prime thing. Screw the TSB. I believe it`s in the trans pump gears. They rattle when that piss poor ULV oil drains off after a while. I believe those sharp tooth gears, with backlash, can rattle when dry. Not a vane style oil pump. Wonder who`s right? Me, or the TSB? Maybe I`m wrong?

Mine suprised me the other day and did it. It`s hot down here now. It only did it once. But, it will usually do it after sitting overnight in the colder weather. Never usually does it in the warmer weather.

Mine has done that since new. The colder the worse.

If that guage has a way to adjust [hex on bottom], put that thing in a glass full of ice, put water in, put your gage in, let it sit for 3 minutes or so, and set it to 33 degrees.

That a/c has got a problem. It should be able to put out at least mid 40`s temp on a day like that. Vent temp, that is.

My last oil change I did at 10,520 miles on vehicle. 3135 miles on oil. OLM says 44% remaining. `25 Silverado 5.3. 4 oil changes on this thing at this mileage.

Oh please. Wonder what temp they measured the drop over? Not bustin your ball$.

My guess is they have changed the oil life monitor in the later trucks for environmental purposes. My 2000 Silverado oil change light comes on around 2800 to 3600 miles. Once, it went to 4200. I`ll still use that system but not the `25 Silverado.

My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance. BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.

1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world. We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.

When I first started mechanic work for a living, I remember a guy with a BMW coming in for an oil change. He had his own oil and filter. We had me and 2 other mechanics in that shop. The other 2 left early that day. The guy asked where Brian was. Told him he left early. The guy wasn`t mad. He just left and said he would come back later. I wasn`t insulted either. One brings his stuff to a person, not a place.

Not a bad idea to check codes. But, if you have an old battery and/or electrical gremlins, most of those codes will be false.