FriendlyMan

Interesting, I don't know for fact but I don't see how or why the power mirrors would be different. Any chance you could confirm the switch actually works? On my truck I have to press the buttons really hard for the passenger side to work (if it will work that day), but not the drivers side. I'm thinking it could be a problem with the switch itself. Another thing I might do in your situation is take off the plastic on the inside where the mirror bolts to the truck and look at the wiring there. If I recall correctly there's several different wires behind the foam in the door behind the cover. You probably already did this, which makes me wonder about the switch. Could you bridge them to make sure the mirror motors are working at all too?

I forgot to mention also, do I have to worry about any off-setting?

It's a 2000 Silverado 1500 2wd 4.8L ext. cab standard transmission. I'm not too worried about losing power and mpg. I have to buy new tires soon. I also don't mind trimming a little bit. My truck has stock 16x8 wheels with 30" 255/70R16 tires on it. It also has a 5" front lift/leveling kit (3" spindle +2" springs) and 3" rear blocks plus rear air springs that give it 2-3 additional inches of lift. I am debating weather or not to buy and install a 3" body lift kit from zone off road: https://zoneoffroad.com/products/3-in-body-lift-1999-2000-chevygmc-silveradosierra-1500?variant=39431656505432 Would the body lift be mandatory? Will this work and has anyone around here done this on a '99-06 2wd 1500? The only information I could find about doing this is from this forum: https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/anyone-running-35-s-on-stock-rims.186753/

After the 3" body lift, would it be as simple as ordering 315/75r16 all-terrains and having them put on the wheels?

2000 Silverado 1500 LS RWD w/ manual transmission 4.8L V8 275k on ODO Recently did a 5" front 3" rear lift/leveling kit (also has rear air suspension). I find that I really dig this and now I'm entertaining a 3" body lift kit and putting bigger tires on my truck. I've been kinda unsuccessful in understanding what what route to go (Google seems to have way more info with newer trucks). I'm aiming towards 35s, even if I have to trim despite 8" of lift. I understand I will lose some performance if I do this, but what might be lost may be made up for with an increase in smiles per mile. I have Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac's - 255/70R16 111S (about 30s) on it now. Are there any popular all terrain 35s that will fit on the stock 16" wheels? Will I have to do any offset calculations? Thank you all.

PICS: https://imgur.com/a/lhf18Ei So I needed ball joints re-done and after doing some researching I found that control arms & other front end components weren't so much more on Amazon... OK, so since I did brakes, rotors, and wheel bearings recently (past few years). I looked at new spindles, coil springs, and shocks this time too. Supposedly, GM recommends replacing these every 100k miles or so? I never did it in my 275k on the odo so I decided to do them all but with a modest leveling/lift kit as well. See the pics above. I also installed new front and rear speakers with a new chinese android head unit. My 20+ year old stereo was really passing out. It was relatively cheap but for what you get bang for buck I went for it. It's not bad at all, basically an android tablet for the truck with auto controls. I chose this particular model so my passenger could rotate the screen to watch whatever they wanted on netflix during a road trip or whatever. I enjoy riding around with these updates in this old truck. I know the 2021's are looking super sweet. My friends and family have them and I've test driven them myself. I just don't want to let go of this truck because it has been such a good ride. It has had it's faulty moments but overall I recognize it has been a solid ride and will probably last me at the very least another 2-5 years. I don't like to finance stuff so that's another angle about my choice. Now I am debating doing a 3" body lift on top of the 5" front / 3" rear lift so I can fit 35 inch wheels with minimal modifications. Probably all-terrains. And a box with 3 sub woofers in the rear under the seats. Think I should go for it? Truck is paid off. I have another backup truck and car to myself on the side.

Does it matter if I use an "insulator" vs. a "seat" for the top? They're two different parts.

P0446 is burned into my soul. I chased this problem for a very long time and replaced one part at a time, same as you with your strategy. Eventually replaced every component. I have heard stories of dealerships that would completely replace the EVAP system if still under warranty and then total the vehicle if P0446 came back after that. I ended up replacing the entire EVAP system short of the gas tank. I eventually bought a smoke tool and did the pressurized smoke test, only to find no leaks (I should have done this first, there is an inexpensive one on Amazon that uses 12v battery with mineral oil). You can test both valves by giving them 12v and seeing if you can push air through them, no need to replace them if the valves cycle with 12v. I can't tell you how many times I took my truck bed off working on this, it was ridiculous. So heavy and hard to do alone. I even wired into the sensors so I could read them on my Fluke in the cab, because the EVAP test takes so long to run and complete. Anyway I went through great lengths to troubleshoot this on my own. One night I was up late and on my second glass of bourbon and found a guy on Youtube who has a video series on EVAP systems and how they are designed and work. It was much like a college course. Probably 80 hours of videos. I think he was the engineer who designed the evap emissions system on modern vehicles if I recall correctly. Anyway I benefited from his lectures on YouTube and got a much deeper understanding about how the evap system software works in the truck's computer. In the most basic language, the computer looks for a specific set of parameters from the sensors and plugs it into a formula and expects a certain range of results. One of the variables is a change of fuel level before and after the test. This was one angle I hadn't thought of so I took the truck bed off for the 100+th time and inspected all of the fuel pump/fuel gauge wiring. I noticed one of the fuel pump ground wires getting hot after letting the truck run for 20 or 30 minutes with the bed off and decided I'd replace it. New wire, flux, solder, dielectric grease, heat shrink, about ten cents total fixed the problem. I was an afternoon away from programming an arduino to fake the sensor parameters necessary to trick the computer into thinking there was nothing wrong with the EVAP system.

2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 RWD. I'm going to redo my front suspension soon and was curious if there should be a lower front coil spring insulator. The new lower control arm has a groove and notch to lock the spring in place. I know on some vehicles there is a lower coil insulator/seat that has the groove on it. Not so it seems with my truck. Is it necessary that I install an insulator or seat between the coil spring and lower control arm? Amazon's list of coil spring insulators and spring seats for my truck. Which one is better? Thanks everyone, Friendly

I had this very same problem with my 2000 silverado 1500. I want to say I purchased a brand new keyfob back in 2011 maybe? It was like 75 bucks at the time and I went back and forth with the manufacturer via email and phone getting the darn thing to work. My truck would go into programming mode (cycling the locks like it's supposed to) but wouldn't cycle the locks after both unlock/lock buttons were pressed simultaneously for any amount of time. The Keyfob worked with the keyfob signal tester at the auto parts store. Had to be something wrong with the truck right? So, I replace the wireless signal module deep in the dash...no luck. I'm embarrassed about how long of a time I spent researching and working on this.... One day I was working on another problem and unplugged the ECU/computer connectors and cleaned them with electronics cleaner and a lil' dielectric grease - and I have no idea if this helped or not but it might be relevant. Anyway a week or so later (this was last year), I was on Amazon and randomly saw the keyfobs are like $10 now. So I added it to my cart with some other stuff. It came in the mail and for ****** and giggles, I tried to program this one and wouldn't you know it, it worked. After 8 years without that god damn key fob man....I want my 2011's $75.00 back. I don't really know what was different other than that the cheap one on Amazon worked. Oh yeah and the old one I bought for $75 was still in the center console, still wouldn't program either so I chunked it.

Alright so an update to this headache. I can't exactly say I know what fixed the problem but I got the evap emissions test to pass without setting the lone P0446 CEL code. I took it and passed inspection yesterday. What I ended up doing was two things. I Re-wired the fuel pump connector wires. When I first replaced my fuel pump on this truck the new fuel pump came with updated connectors that had to be rewired and the old ones discarded. Even though everything else worked normally (including the fuel gauge from what I could tell), I noticed the old wire splices to the newer connectors were green and corroded. So I cut the corrosion out and rewired them. Second thing I was doing was I set up a miltimeter in the cab with a long wire to the fuel tank pressure sensor voltage output. I knew if I could watch the pressure and see the computer attempting the test that it probably wasn't the computer itself. Sure enough I took it on several rides over the week and watched the voltage. ~1.5v bolts was normal atmosphere. 4.5-5v is vacuum and less than 1v was pressurized. I watched it pull vacuum and release to normal atmosphere and pressurize. So I knew the solenoids were working. My best guess is that tbarn was right on the money and for some reason the corrosion at the fuel sender wire was enough for the computer to not accurately read the sender voltage to calculate fuel rate. (I don't know if that's how the computer actually measures that). Anyway it's working now and I look forward to the next 100k miles. If anyone was wondering I could see if the computer completed the evap emissions test using a Bluetooth obd2 reader on Amazon ($20) and a cell phone app called Torque (free).

Well I replaced the neck and hose and the code came back. I plan on taking the bed off tomorrow morning bright and early and seeing if i can hold 10psi on it and spraying around the system with soapy water to see if I can find the leak. I'm all ears if anyone has any suggestions.

I looked at the filler neck today and it does look rough on the outside. I might as well replace it since I cant recall ever changing it out.

2000 Silverado 1500 4.8L V8 260,000 miles P0446: Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to fix this check engine light code. I have searched this forum and google and youtube a lot and tried many things but so far nothing has worked. It takes 3-6 days for the code to come back. What I have done so far 1. cleaned all hoses with compressed air, including blowing out the charcoal canister, vent solenoid, and purge valve 2. verified the vent solenoid worked. Give it 12v on the leads and it closes 3. replaced the vent solenoid and purge valve on the intake just in case 4. replaced the charcoal canister and fuel tank pressure sensor 5. replaced gas cap with OEM gas cap 6. verified that the wire connector at the vent solenoid has power Other than the check engine light I don't have any problems with the truck. No problems refueling....just need it pass emissions for yearly inspection in my state. I don't have access to a smoke test tool but my next idea is to replace all of the evap hoses with 5/8" fuel hose and the tank fill hose. All of these suggestions are what I have read online could be fixes for this code. Thanks Friendly