Everything posted by FriendlyMan
After the 3" body lift, would it be as simple as ordering 315/75r16 all-terrains and having them put on the wheels?
2000 Silverado 1500 LS RWD w/ manual transmission 4.8L V8 275k on ODO Recently did a 5" front 3" rear lift/leveling kit (also has rear air suspension). I find that I really dig this and now I'm entertaining a 3" body lift kit and putting bigger tires on my truck. I've been kinda unsuccessful in understanding what what route to go (Google seems to have way more info with newer trucks). I'm aiming towards 35s, even if I have to trim despite 8" of lift. I understand I will lose some performance if I do this, but what might be lost may be made up for with an increase in smiles per mile. I have Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac's - 255/70R16 111S (about 30s) on it now. Are there any popular all terrain 35s that will fit on the stock 16" wheels? Will I have to do any offset calculations? Thank you all.
PICS: https://imgur.com/a/lhf18Ei So I needed ball joints re-done and after doing some researching I found that control arms & other front end components weren't so much more on Amazon... OK, so since I did brakes, rotors, and wheel bearings recently (past few years). I looked at new spindles, coil springs, and shocks this time too. Supposedly, GM recommends replacing these every 100k miles or so? I never did it in my 275k on the odo so I decided to do them all but with a modest leveling/lift kit as well. See the pics above. I also installed new front and rear speakers with a new chinese android head unit. My 20+ year old stereo was really passing out. It was relatively cheap but for what you get bang for buck I went for it. It's not bad at all, basically an android tablet for the truck with auto controls. I chose this particular model so my passenger could rotate the screen to watch whatever they wanted on netflix during a road trip or whatever. I enjoy riding around with these updates in this old truck. I know the 2021's are looking super sweet. My friends and family have them and I've test driven them myself. I just don't want to let go of this truck because it has been such a good ride. It has had it's faulty moments but overall I recognize it has been a solid ride and will probably last me at the very least another 2-5 years. I don't like to finance stuff so that's another angle about my choice. Now I am debating doing a 3" body lift on top of the 5" front / 3" rear lift so I can fit 35 inch wheels with minimal modifications. Probably all-terrains. And a box with 3 sub woofers in the rear under the seats. Think I should go for it? Truck is paid off. I have another backup truck and car to myself on the side.
Does it matter if I use an "insulator" vs. a "seat" for the top? They're two different parts.
P0446 is burned into my soul. I chased this problem for a very long time and replaced one part at a time, same as you with your strategy. Eventually replaced every component. I have heard stories of dealerships that would completely replace the EVAP system if still under warranty and then total the vehicle if P0446 came back after that. I ended up replacing the entire EVAP system short of the gas tank. I eventually bought a smoke tool and did the pressurized smoke test, only to find no leaks (I should have done this first, there is an inexpensive one on Amazon that uses 12v battery with mineral oil). You can test both valves by giving them 12v and seeing if you can push air through them, no need to replace them if the valves cycle with 12v. I can't tell you how many times I took my truck bed off working on this, it was ridiculous. So heavy and hard to do alone. I even wired into the sensors so I could read them on my Fluke in the cab, because the EVAP test takes so long to run and complete. Anyway I went through great lengths to troubleshoot this on my own. One night I was up late and on my second glass of bourbon and found a guy on Youtube who has a video series on EVAP systems and how they are designed and work. It was much like a college course. Probably 80 hours of videos. I think he was the engineer who designed the evap emissions system on modern vehicles if I recall correctly. Anyway I benefited from his lectures on YouTube and got a much deeper understanding about how the evap system software works in the truck's computer. In the most basic language, the computer looks for a specific set of parameters from the sensors and plugs it into a formula and expects a certain range of results. One of the variables is a change of fuel level before and after the test. This was one angle I hadn't thought of so I took the truck bed off for the 100+th time and inspected all of the fuel pump/fuel gauge wiring. I noticed one of the fuel pump ground wires getting hot after letting the truck run for 20 or 30 minutes with the bed off and decided I'd replace it. New wire, flux, solder, dielectric grease, heat shrink, about ten cents total fixed the problem. I was an afternoon away from programming an arduino to fake the sensor parameters necessary to trick the computer into thinking there was nothing wrong with the EVAP system.
2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 RWD. I'm going to redo my front suspension soon and was curious if there should be a lower front coil spring insulator. The new lower control arm has a groove and notch to lock the spring in place. I know on some vehicles there is a lower coil insulator/seat that has the groove on it. Not so it seems with my truck. Is it necessary that I install an insulator or seat between the coil spring and lower control arm? Amazon's list of coil spring insulators and spring seats for my truck. Which one is better? Thanks everyone, Friendly
I had this very same problem with my 2000 silverado 1500. I want to say I purchased a brand new keyfob back in 2011 maybe? It was like 75 bucks at the time and I went back and forth with the manufacturer via email and phone getting the darn thing to work. My truck would go into programming mode (cycling the locks like it's supposed to) but wouldn't cycle the locks after both unlock/lock buttons were pressed simultaneously for any amount of time. The Keyfob worked with the keyfob signal tester at the auto parts store. Had to be something wrong with the truck right? So, I replace the wireless signal module deep in the dash...no luck. I'm embarrassed about how long of a time I spent researching and working on this.... One day I was working on another problem and unplugged the ECU/computer connectors and cleaned them with electronics cleaner and a lil' dielectric grease - and I have no idea if this helped or not but it might be relevant. Anyway a week or so later (this was last year), I was on Amazon and randomly saw the keyfobs are like $10 now. So I added it to my cart with some other stuff. It came in the mail and for ****** and giggles, I tried to program this one and wouldn't you know it, it worked. After 8 years without that god damn key fob man....I want my 2011's $75.00 back. I don't really know what was different other than that the cheap one on Amazon worked. Oh yeah and the old one I bought for $75 was still in the center console, still wouldn't program either so I chunked it.
Alright so an update to this headache. I can't exactly say I know what fixed the problem but I got the evap emissions test to pass without setting the lone P0446 CEL code. I took it and passed inspection yesterday. What I ended up doing was two things. I Re-wired the fuel pump connector wires. When I first replaced my fuel pump on this truck the new fuel pump came with updated connectors that had to be rewired and the old ones discarded. Even though everything else worked normally (including the fuel gauge from what I could tell), I noticed the old wire splices to the newer connectors were green and corroded. So I cut the corrosion out and rewired them. Second thing I was doing was I set up a miltimeter in the cab with a long wire to the fuel tank pressure sensor voltage output. I knew if I could watch the pressure and see the computer attempting the test that it probably wasn't the computer itself. Sure enough I took it on several rides over the week and watched the voltage. ~1.5v bolts was normal atmosphere. 4.5-5v is vacuum and less than 1v was pressurized. I watched it pull vacuum and release to normal atmosphere and pressurize. So I knew the solenoids were working. My best guess is that tbarn was right on the money and for some reason the corrosion at the fuel sender wire was enough for the computer to not accurately read the sender voltage to calculate fuel rate. (I don't know if that's how the computer actually measures that). Anyway it's working now and I look forward to the next 100k miles. If anyone was wondering I could see if the computer completed the evap emissions test using a Bluetooth obd2 reader on Amazon ($20) and a cell phone app called Torque (free).
Well I replaced the neck and hose and the code came back. I plan on taking the bed off tomorrow morning bright and early and seeing if i can hold 10psi on it and spraying around the system with soapy water to see if I can find the leak. I'm all ears if anyone has any suggestions.
I looked at the filler neck today and it does look rough on the outside. I might as well replace it since I cant recall ever changing it out.
2000 Silverado 1500 4.8L V8 260,000 miles P0446: Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to fix this check engine light code. I have searched this forum and google and youtube a lot and tried many things but so far nothing has worked. It takes 3-6 days for the code to come back. What I have done so far 1. cleaned all hoses with compressed air, including blowing out the charcoal canister, vent solenoid, and purge valve 2. verified the vent solenoid worked. Give it 12v on the leads and it closes 3. replaced the vent solenoid and purge valve on the intake just in case 4. replaced the charcoal canister and fuel tank pressure sensor 5. replaced gas cap with OEM gas cap 6. verified that the wire connector at the vent solenoid has power Other than the check engine light I don't have any problems with the truck. No problems refueling....just need it pass emissions for yearly inspection in my state. I don't have access to a smoke test tool but my next idea is to replace all of the evap hoses with 5/8" fuel hose and the tank fill hose. All of these suggestions are what I have read online could be fixes for this code. Thanks Friendly
Thank you so much for the schematics. I replaced the pressure switch and changed out the orifice tube. The orifice tube was a little dirty. After refilling it seems to be working now.
Luckily I wrote down the pressures the system had when it was working. 55 psi low side and 260 high side, and this was something like 95 degrees F outside. When I jump the wires and fore the compressor to come on, it does 50 low side and 160 high side. I will look into a safety switch and relays. Quick question though, where can I get the AC schematic for my truck? The haynes manual I have is not specific enough when it comes to A/C. Also, does my truck have an ambient temperature sensor? If so where is it? I could not find anything looking like it behind the grill.
I would definitely check for leaks. Just wait for a really dry day and get your flashlight when the engine has been running and look around for wet spots. I had this exact same problem and it turned out I had a very fine crack in my radiator. In my 2000, the radiator is plastic and after a couple years that plastic gets brittle. I would also check the hoses and clamps. One thing to consider is that when your engine compartment has been running, the heat in there evaporates water pretty quick, making a small leak hard to find. It probably would not hurt to take those hoses and tighten up the hose clamps up a bit as well.
2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8L V8 Manual Transmission Last summer I ordered a complete new AC system: new compressor, drier, condenser, orifice tube, etc. The only thing I did not change out were the lines and the high and low fittings on them. I did thoroughly clean out the hoses though, and the evaporator. Well after that all night long project, I pulled vacuum for another 8 hours, made sure there were no leaks, and then refilled it with R-134A. I did put the proper amount of PAG oil in the compressor and even verified that I had the correct oil for the compressor. If you are wondering why I did not replace the lines as well....well, at that point I reached the max of my budget to fix the AC, but they were in good condition anyway. I did replace all of the o-rings too. Well the AC worked just wonderfully all summer after that. No leaks, no issues what so ever. Then came winter this year and I did not run the AC at all. When it started warming up last week (I am from Louisiana) I decided to run the AC... No cold air. OK Hmmm... When I got home I decided to look under the hood and everything appeared fine until I unscrewed the high side fitting cover and then I hear and see refrigerant spewing out, Damn! I thought. The little rubber valve in there was deformed and the cap was all that was holding the pressure in. SO I am a little red faced that after $600+ project, I am defeated 6 months later by a $2.50 part I did not switch out. Yesterday I had the refrigerant removed, I took the old fitting off and put a new one on. I pulled vacuum for an hour, waited to check for leaks, there were none, so I ran the vacuum pump for another hour. Then I started the refrigerant refill process again. The compressor would not cycle or stay on, the only way I could get it to take in refrigerant was to disconnect the wires on the pressure switch and connect the terminals to help it get started. After about 2lbs of refrigerant, the compressor still wont cycle. Still no AC... Pressure switch dead? maybe. Its still a bit new though, so IDK. I have noticed that the low and high side pressures are not getting as high as they were when I first put the new one in. So I am wondering if my gauges leaked and air got in there some how? Perhaps I did not evap all of the moisture? There seems to be plenty of oil in there (I can see it in the gauge sight glass--could that be water?) I am hoping a discussion can help me figure out what is going on...I want to take my honey bunny on a little honeymoon road trip and I need my trucks AC. What do you guys think?
Hey just to follow up I went to the auto store and replaced the speedometer sensor. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_vehicle-speed-sensor-bwd_20971597-p?searchTerm=speed+sensor This fixed the problem, there is no more low speed ABS activation. First I cleaned the wires and connections on all the wires and drove around a little bit and that's when I noticed the speedometer was jumping around and didn't register a speed increase until about 5mph. Thank you NHT Mike for pointing that out. The old one had lots of metal shavings on and around it. That makes me a bit nervous, any suggestions on cleaning that out?
The spedometer sensor isnt too expensive and I could replace it. Is there any way to test it though? Any deas where it is on a standard transmission truck? EDIT: Here it is at Autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Vehicle-Transmission-Speed-Sensor/2000-Chevrolet-Silverado-1500-2WD/_/N-jep0eZ9gsum?itemIdentifier=195823_676146_20285_ I suppose it couldn't hurt to try and clean it before I buy a new one. I will try it some time this weekend and report back.
I had taken the ABS fuse out when trying to diagnose the problem and it drove normal again except the abs lights then come on. I have since put the fuse back in and replaced both front hubs and sensors and still have he same problem.
Year 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8L V8, standard transmission I have the dreaded ABS activation when I am braking below 5-10mph. Usually no ABS light comes on; however, it has come on before, along with the brake light, but it turns off the next time I start the truck. This is rare though, most of the time there is no ABS light or no check engine light. Yesterday two new TIMKIN hub assemblies came in with sensors included and I replaced both front hubs. The problem still persists. Anyone have any ideas on what I should try next? I think this weekend I will try to check the connections and ground wires. I have read there is another sensor in the rear diff, but there is an internet consensus that its extraordinarily unlikely that its the cause of the problem--though IDK. The symptoms I have are identical to http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/drivetrain/145570-abs-activates-when-braking-low-speed-2.html but I have tried his solution and so far it has not worked.
I did a little more research and found that someone fixed this problem by replacing their BCM. I'm thinking bout just getting a bulldog keyless kit with remote starting. Anyone have experience with those or know if the BCM is required for that too?
Hello again Truck masters, I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab, 4.8L V8, standard transmission. I recently ordered a keyless remote replacement for my truck to replace an old one that broke (had it clipped to my jeans while sawing up trees in LA during hurricane gustav a few years back, and it was water damaged and smashed moving logs). I held on to it anyway the past few years (the old one). Anyway, the new one I ordered is identical to the old one, same numbers, FCC ID, etc. I went online and found some instructions for programming it. The normal: hold unlock, ON, OFF, ON, OFF, release unlock--the locks cycle--hold down the keyless remote unlock and lock buttons simultaneously for 15-60 seconds until locks cycle... Well it didn't work, the locks cycle fine and enter into programming mode, but when I hold down the remote buttons simultaneously nothing happens. I called tech support (the people who I bought the keyless remote from) and followed the steps with them on the phone. The tech asked me to put it into programming mode and then to turn the key to the ON and OFF position to see if the program would exit properly by cycling the locks again, and this doesn't happen. He explained to me that the truck would enter programming mode but would immediately exit (or crash) and that this problem seemed to be pretty common on blazers of this year too. I asked him if I should go ahead and buy a new keyless receiver module and he said no, get it checked out by the dealership. So here is what I have done so far: - I tested and replace the keyless remote battery, made sure it read 3.0-3.3v (so it's not the remote battery) - I took the remote to Autozone and tested it on one of their signal testers - the remote works perfectly - I disconnected my truck battery for 10 minutes, reconnected it, and tried it again (no luck) - Went to a junkyard and found an identical keyless receiver module and replaced the one in my truck (no luck) - Tested to see what happens without a keyless receiver module--truck doesn't enter programming mode, locks don't cycle I did some more reading and searching online and there seems to be a memory problem with the truck's computer? If this is so, is there a way to reset it? If this is something I absolutely can't fix, what's a ballpark estimate on the cost to have someone else fix/program it? any other ideas?
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