All Activity

As far as I know, it's a carry over. Not sure why this forum started this section. I just noticed it yesterday but it might have been here a while. Maybe they just because there are new gassers (which the Yukon isn't getting) they decided to give the 3.0l it's own section.

A couple of reasons. The Yukon I ordered will have the air suspension that will have an entry/exit setting (lowers) to help my wife. The other? I did have some warranty issues with the Sierra that ticked me off but it's moving 2 model years which is normal for me.

original motor, oil pump , timing chain gtx high mileage oil

and it's spam now.

That is GM's recommendation for flashing any of the computers in your vehicle, at least via their SPS programming service (vs OTA updates), that you should only flash an update if the update fixes a problem you are actually having or is safety-recall related.

There are no "new model" for the SUV's in 2027, correct?

Oh please, tell me who I am and what I know. (This is going to bet interesting) Please, continue. Floor is yours.

R&P isn't an additive. It's an oil to help clean old engines so they have a chance of lasting longer. That's like when people say SuperTech is bad when I've used it for years and never had an issue or people who think paying $100 for Amsoil is the best thing to do. Mic Drop. Whatever TF that meant. You're that one AHole that has to be correct about sh*t they know nothing about.

Hormuz has them confused around here. Some stations down twenty cent and other up that amount.

If you have to move from your regular oil to an HM oil then your regular oil didn't get it done. If you have to clean out your motor with such products as R&P or AutoRx then your regular oil didn't get it done. Period, Full Stop, drop the Mic!!

2024 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 6.6L L8T gas, Allison 10-speed. Currently about 30,000 miles. Truck has had an easy life. I’ve towed maybe a couple hundred miles total since new. No heavy towing yet. On the highway it suddenly bucked hard, then immediately downshifted and stayed in 2nd. Felt like I slammed on the brakes with traffic behind me. I had to limp it at about 45 mph at 4500 rpm to the nearest exit. Transmission temp climbed quickly to 190°F before I shut it off, which is the hottest I’ve ever seen it (still not that hot). This was the first time the check engine light came on. After restarting it, I drove it about an hour to the dealer afterward taking only backroads. Dealer says they don’t know what’s wrong and that all the codes are historical. One of the techs looked at it while I was grabbing my stuff and said “this ain’t good.” They’re doing a test drive tonight and said they’ll consult their technical specialist. Has anyone else had this on a low-mileage L8T / 10L1000? Did GM actually fix it with the valve body TSB? Considering it was driving absolutely fine when this happened, I really don't trust the truck and its looking like the dealer isn't going to do anything about it.

Nice! What made you want to trade up your '25? with the 3.0 for a new one? (As I look suspiciously at mine...)

Figured I'd at least get this section going. I'll be trading a 2025 GMC Sierra 1500 3.0l in on a GMC Yukon with the 3.0l Duramax.

Well, that's a lot of info - Thanks, but I think I'll stick to that old but wise saying, " If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

For a limited time, commercial accounts receive a free Carhartt® tool bag with their order of $750 or more when they use code TOOL926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to get wholesale prices for your equipment? Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/get-a-commercial-account/?zo=521390

Bots post VIN numbers? That was meant for the GMCustomerService since they don't allow direct messaging. Thanks for playing

Smoke test the system. You can buy a cheap smoke machine from Amazon and within a few minutes if there's any leaks then you find the problem if there's no leaks you have two choices. Trace it out for electrical issues or replace everything and then see what happens. I'm about to replace everything thanks to the previous owner butchering all the lines under the truck.

Best to use to clean out an engine and after 3-4 OCI's go back to the HM Oils. People seem to think if the oil isn't Dexos approved then it's not a good oil. Dexos is just a certification GM requires and the oil companies have to pay for that certification. With the shortage of oils from the foreign countries a lot of Oil makers are having to remove the Dexos certification.

I've been under the truck several times but it still has the same original parts minus the tubes as the previous owner cut it all out and used cheap gas line hose and it is soft and any movement causes it to pinch or kink and stops vapors from moving through the system. Trying to find someone who installed the updated relocation kit and which one of those two they used. Prefer not to use rubber hose where it's not needed.

Yah, I found a leak on the condenser, replaced that and the other replacement parts, re-charged, good to go. thank you.

For a limited time, Preferred Customers and online/catalog customers receive a free LED headlamp when they use code LAMP926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. What to save up to 25% off retail, sign up as a Preferred Customer. https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=521390

For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account? Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390

Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts.

I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.

I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.