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TJay74

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TJay74 last won the day on October 23 2015

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About TJay74

  • Rank
    Senior Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Todd
  • Location
    Norman, OK
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    '16 Sierra CC A/T 6.2 ** '17 Camaro SS 1LE Procharged
  1. Yes fr about a week, but 10rwhp isnt going to make a huge change in performance. 30ish RWHP will make a change though, truck feels great now. Been working on my transmission tune for the last week or two. Once the weather cools off the truck is gonna be an even bigger beast.
  2. You can shift from 2HI to Auto or 4HI at any speed, it will shift just fine. As said, 4LO requires you to be at a complete stop to get into it.
  3. Correct, 12v-14v is normal for the charging system and the BCM turns the alternator on/off to charge only when needed. Another byproduct of the Corp EPA fuel numbers and the manufactures trying to eek out every last bit of MPG they can. When the BCM turns the alternator off it reduces load on the engine and improve theoretical fuel mileage.
  4. Oil pressure 6.2

    Part of the issue is the 0w20 oil, that is used for trying to improve the corp fuel mileage numbers and that reason only. Anything the manufactures can do to tweak out some more MPG. Junk that stuff and either run a 0w30 or 5w30 if you are going to tow. Second, the oil pumps in these engines are dual stage. So they have a low and high mode in them as well, again to help with EPA numbers.
  5. Oil pressure 6.2

    I dont believe the trucks support the oil temp feature. I use HPT as well, my truck never shows oil temps but my 2017 Camaro SS does. Same engine in both vehicles.
  6. Window Auto Up Feature

    It was looked into back when the 2014's came out, as said it is a combo of the switch module, the BCM and the motors that allow the auto up to work. Sad Gm doesnt allow it on the trucks, but yet my 2017 Camaro has auto up on both of the windows.
  7. PO50D

    i would have them reset the code and see what happens, if it comes back it is more than likely a bad injector. I just got my 16 back with the 6.2l last month for the same code. 1 week later and 1 new injector and I was all good to go. Truck only had 22k miles on it at the time.
  8. It will take you longer with the hose clamps then it will with the process I just did. All the hose clamps are doing is limiting the movement of the electric motor where it bolts on. Same thing I did with closing the gap on the motor bracket and adding 1 washer to the bolt.
  9. Ok, based on the above pictures that were shown I fixed mine last night. It literally took me 10 minutes to fix the issue. Push the drivers side seat all the way back and all the way up. There are two up functions on the switch, make sure both the rear and front sections are up. Look by the center console side of the seat on the underside, you will see the motor there that actuates the front of the seat up. It is bolted in a black metal bracket, has a T30 torx bolt holding it in and the bolt is fully seated but has a gap by the head. That is the issue, the gap. You can grab that motor as it is on a rod that goes across the front of the seat and is what rotates the front of the seat up. Grasp the motor and move it side to side, you will hear and feel the "clunk" that is felt when you are turning. Here is the fix, it is stupid easy and simple. You will need some channel lock pliers, a T30 torx bit and a flat washer. Remove the T30 torx bolt and pull it out. You will notice it is a shouldered bolt, only threaded about a 1/4" or so. Now take the pliers and grab the bracket ears and bend them in together slightly. Just enough to take up the gap that allowed the motor to rock side to side. Now with a washer that will slide onto the bolt and down to the head, slide the washer on and then put the motor back into the bracket and slide the bolt/washer back into place and tighten the bolt down. Make sure to not bind the bolt up, check operation of the front height seat motor and make sure it goes up and down properly. Thats it, you have now fixed the seat clunk on the seat. Had mine done for two days now, no more clunk in mine either.
  10. I would not trust the stores alternator testing systems on the new GM vehicles that have adaptive battery charging systems on them. The computer turns the charging system in the alternator on/off as needed to charge the battery. When the battery is charged the output turns off to reduce load on the alternator and the parasitic drivetrain losses to help out with fuel economy. You could have a bad battery that had an internal short, or as said some of the 14's had issues with the battery cables. There was a TSB out for that at one point.
  11. I am up and running, took about 2 tanks of adding E100 to get me over the E80 point. Sadly that was a temp fix as the station with the E100 is too far away to use them regularly. The local station that has E85 on the pump is not consistent, they range from E65 to E85 depending on the time of the year. The last modifier table is at E80, so as long as you are over E80 will be getting the max tune changes possible. Truck is running great, defiantly can tell it has picked up some power with the E85 conversion and the Katech ported throttle body.
  12. Huh??? The dealer most certainly "tune" modules in the sense that when GM had them flash a firmware into the OP's TCM at that point the dealer was tuning the TCM. GM does revise calibrations based on issues and then has those calibrations flashed when work is done.
  13. The outside temp sensor is in the front grill, has nothing to do with Onstar. Purely from either pulling the battery or from flashing the vehicle.
  14. No one ever said anyone is an idiot, but when people come into posts without fully knowing how the system works and or tells people there are no gains it makes people question who is correct. 1st off, the 5.3 trucks shouldnt even be running 87 AT ALL...!!! Those trucks have detonation on 87, 89 and on 91. The compression ratio isnt that far off from the 6.2 trucks. Sadly people get fixated on the fuel costs and to be honest the vast majority of owners will run the cheapest stuff they can find. The only way E85 will have a octane rating around 94 is if it is not really E85 and is closer to E65 which does happen as some stations switch over to the winter blend on E85 in the fall. Our main station is Oncue, they do this. We do have a private owned station who keeps pure E85 all year long as well as E100. So luckily we can use either one to get the E value up faster without having to run so many tanks thru the vehicle. As said, Ethanol has benefits other than just being able to run more timing. It burns cooler, it burns cleaner and it wont leave carbon fouling on the valves, pistons, rings, or any of the other parts. I recently had some work done on my truck, with the Ethanol I had put in the system over the last several months and the catch can as well the tech said I didnt have any carbon build up on my valves or on the pistons when he used the bore scope to check out a couple of cylinders. I am looking forward to the gains on the E85 in the next week or so, I may at some point put my wideband in the exhaust as well and maybe see if I can dial in the PE tables as well. One day my goal is to go out to Florida and go to the Tuning School and learn some more of the tuning side of the new vehicles.
  15. OK, E85 kit is installed on the truck along with a ported Katech throttle body. Just for those who are interested in factual info, here is some. I had about 4 gallons of E85 in the truck as part of my normal fuel routine this last week. On 91 octane the 4 gallons of E85 added some much needed octane and detonation prevention. With HP Tuners and verified with the Torque app using a custom PID the truck was reporting a E85 percentage of 9.8%. The newer vehicles have a virtual ethanol sensor in place so they can read ethanol in the system. The tables for E85 are fully populated, the only change I had to make was to turn the sensor from "virtual" to "sensor". I had to also change the Min and Max E85 percentage, from the factory it is set at 10% for both of those tables. Now where the tables get interesting is there are modified tables for E10, E20, E40, E60 and E80. At each one of those set points the modifier gets more aggressive until at the E80 point it is at the max modified of "1". Once I got the sensor installed, which took about 30 minutes using the CJ Tunes kit I went in and modified the tune and activated the sensor. Then took the truck for a test drive and logged the truck using the HPT scanner program. Truck reported 14% E85 in the system and performance increase was already showing in how the truck drove and in logged knock which had reduced to almost nothing. Sadly I just filled up this morning, so I am going to have to drive the truck for a week to get the 91 octane out of the tank, but hopefully by next weekend I will be able to get around E60 or higher and start really seeing the advantages of switching over to E85. Any questions feels free to reply on here, contrary to what some of the other posters said about the 6.2L trucks not seeing any benefit is false. The trucks pick up power and response along with adding detonation prevention just like the cars do with the switch over to E85.
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