While this will fix the non-operational gauge it wont correct the underlying issue. If that issue isnt found and fixed after about 5 drive cycles the ECM will kill the gauge cluster again and go into fail safe mode.
You need to pull the code. The code P0128 and P0118 are both related to the termostat it being stuck open or closed. You need to find out which code you have, the code doesnt always trip the check engine light and instead will just kill the coolant temp gauge instead. If you are running a lower than the stock OEM 194° thermostat it can cause this code to trip. The ECM has to see at least 167° within so many drive cycles otherwise it will assume the thermostat is stuck open. Issue could be bad coolant temp sensor or bad thermostat or bad wiring.
I hate to say this but if you are running the 6.2 around on 87 instead of the 91 that is clearly says on the gas cap door and in the owners manual that is required, not recommended then you are taking a chance on having ignition related detonation damage done to the engine which GM has now outlined in the owners manual if that happens they may not fix it since it will be due to using the incorrect fuel. The 5.3l trucks really should be on premium as well, from brand new these trucks have always had pinging and detonation when running 87 octane. I have logged several trucks over the years doing it, it is worse the hotter it is outside versus the cooler to colder months outside. Just the word to the wise, run it as you want but taking the chance to me isnt worth the $5-$10 savings per tank of gas. If the gas mileage is of that much concern to you then a truck may not of have been the best vehicle choice.
1st until the truck has at least 10k miles on it and the engine is fully broke in the real world gas mileage will be off. 2nd if you are going off of the DIC it will not be close at all, they are always off at least 1mpg at the minimum as that info is based off of the injector flow data. The best way to find out the gas mileage is to fill the tank up, reset the trip mileage and drive until you fill up again. Then divide the miles driven by the gallons it took to fill up and that will be your actual gas mileage. Bear in mind that winter gas gets less gas mileage than summer gas and remote start events kill gas mileage along with short drives during the colder months.
I have ran E85 for years now, zero issues. i work on my own stuff as well, zero issues. I was against the forced Ethanol for many years, was never interested in the E85 stuff at all. I had my 14 Sierra AT 6.2 / A6 and never looked at Ethanol, replaced it with my 16 Sierra AT 6.2 / A8 and still didnt mess with it. Then I added my 17 Camaro SS 1LE to the stable and went thru the mods on it. Ended up at 431rwhp with headers, CAI and a ported IM/TB combo. Car was very fun to drive. Then I spent some time really reading up about E85 and the pro's/con's to it. I did the same thing many years ago in regards to octane, how it works, the combustion process in regards to the flame front and detonation. I applied that knowledge to the E85 fuel and learned I was wasting a huge resource by not using it. That Camaro SS that was putting down 431rwhp jumped to almost 460rwhp with just the change over to E85 and the tuning. Car went from being run to a nice stout DD. Then I added a Procharger D1SC and went from 460rwhp to 650rwhp. The pro's of E85 on a modern vehicle far outweigh and con's. I am in OKC, we are humid as well, not Houston humid but we do have year round humidity. Zero issues with E85 at all, as long as you dont park the car with an empty tank for a year you will be fine. As said the fuel system is sealed, the gas station fuel systems are sealed as well and have to use a specific vent system. It isnt like the E85 is sitting outside in the open air with constant air circulation. The humidity (water) in the air isnt sitting there and just puddling up and adding ounces or gallons to the E85 at all. JumpinJoe if you want to hate E85 because the .Gov forced it on us then by all means do so, once you learn about E85 and move past the .Gov issues from 20-30 years ago in regards to how E85 was implemented you will find out that E85 is an awesome fuel source and has tons of advantages. -it burns cooler than gasoline -it produces less carbon soot, the piston tops and combustion chamber stays cleaner, the exhaust tip stays cleaner -it has a 105 octane rating. -it allows way more timing which is where most of the HP increase comes from -it is cheaper than gasoline, especially in the 6.2l trucks where 91/93 are required to be run in them. City driving/interstate driving it is dang near almost a wash The only con is it takes an extra 30% more fuel, depending on the mods it may require the in-tank LPFP from the ZL1 Camaro along with the HPFP and the injectors if you push the mods. The nice thing about E85 is at roughly E50 you have gained about 75% of the HP you will gain from swapping over to it. I got to 455rwhp in my Camaro at E50, once I got to over E80 I only found another 5rwhp when I was N/A. Now that I am supercharged on the Camaro it is the difference in me making 600rwhp on 91 or 650rwhp on E50. The GM trucks are already prone to detonation, the 5.3 and 6.2 trucks have shown this since the new platform came out in 2014. The 6.2l shoudnt run anything less than 91 and neither should the 5.3l trucks. The OEM tune in all of GM vehicles is already setup for E10, so you can literally run 91 octane and then 10% of E85 with zero issues, I have ran E20 with zero issues in our other car which is a 2016 Audi SQ5 that has a 3.0l supercharged V6. It was rated at 355hp from the factory, I have it tuned with a pulley and all the normal bolt on mods and it is near 475hp now. I am getting ready to do the last round of mods next year with a new intercooler and the second pulley update and it will go to 500hp. I run 91 E15-20 in it during the summer months and that little 4300lb SUV is a little rocket on the stuff. Again hate it if you want, E85 is here to stay as the performance vehicle guys like me love it. My 16 Sierra 6.2 has been on E85 for almost 2 years now, zero issues. I drove from OKC to Dallas last weekend on a full tank of E85 (it was actually E70 due to winter blend from what the Ethanol sensor reported). I ran about 75-80 MPH the entire way and still knocked down almost 18mpg.
The dealer doesnt have an option to download the update. They connect the tech's laptop to the vehicle and then it goes out onto the GM global system and locates the needed files and downloads them and installs the files. Been doing it this was for years now from how I have seen some of the firmware updated on my GM vehicles.
The fuel system in the trucks is more than capable of handling E85, even the ECM has all of the parameters in place for E85 but as said there are 2 important parts of the tune turned off that enables those features along with the sensor not being plumbed in. Anything GM made with in the last 5-7 years can handle and run E85 just fine once the sensor is added and the calibration is changed. Zero issues at all. While E85 is Hygroscopic it isnt like it attracts every ounce of moisture instantly. It is an issue that happens over time, more so if the fuel is left just sitting. AS long as you run the fuel out and replace it and even run a full tank of regular ole gasoline thru the system there are zero issues. With the gas tank being 26 gallons in the trucks, you can run up to 5 gallons of E85 with zero issues which is 20%. If you run 4 gallons it puts you at 15%, the extra octane will help with detonation that the DI engines are really prone to during the warmer months of the year.
While adding some E85 up to maybe E20 is ok as the ECM is programmed up to E10 with no issues, running E50 can and will cause some problems up to and including the A/F ratio to be off. AS the E85 percentage climbs the stoichiometric value changes from gas to E85 and actually richens up. If the FF portion of your tune is not enabled (from the factory they are not unless the truck was one that had it as an option, which the 18+ trucks dont have) then the ECM will not change the A/F ration to compensate for the E85. You will be running lean in your case.
GM has advised several times now, take the chance if you want. But if you get any type of engine damage from running 87 octane they are not and may not repair the engine. The manual was changed during the 2016 model year to say the 6.2l require 91 octane or better fuel, not recommend. The manual goes on to say while you can run a lesser octane at a reduced power and performance but that engine damage can also occur and any damage caused from not running 91+ octane or better may not be covered under warranty. With that, I dont get why people buy the 6.2 trucks and then start skimping out on the gas. The tank is 26 gallons, even if you took it down to needing 20 gallons of gas the difference from 87 to 91 is only around $.50 per gallon or $10 per tank difference in price. Top it off even on 91 octane and in any remote type of nice weather and the 6.2l engine is prone to engine knock due to the aggressive timing map in the ECM. It only takes a couple of knock events to get the ECM to drop into the low octane timing map and reduce power and performance. Now with the cooler weather can you run 89 and maybe get away, sure you can but unless I had some data logs I wouldnt do it until I knew for sure that the engine was seeing any knock events. I dont pay your truck payments, so do as you want. Pretty expensive gamble to take just to save $5-$10 per tank on gas.
I dont think the camera style rear view mirror will be easy to put in. The Camaro group has been working on it, last I read you needed the new mirror, new camera, the wiring harness and some other stuff. It sure wasnt plug and play at all.
I am with ya and agree, but on the DI engines the injector cleaner doesnt do much. It cleans the spray tip of the injector out and may help with getting the carbon off of the piston tops, it wont clean the valves at all since the DI engines never spray fuel on the backside of the valves.
There are no special tools needed to R&R the DI injectors. I changed the ones in my 17 Camaro SS in my garage, took about an hour for both rails. The seals on the tips come right off, the new injector come with several spare set of seals. The biggest pain in the ass is getting the clip off that secures the injector to the rail. You need something that will spread the clip open and hold it open so you can push it back and off of the injector. Then it is just a matter of pulling the injector out of the rail. They dont come out very easy and once they do come out it destroy's the seals on the tip.
You wont be able to do it, if it is wired like the 14-18 k2xx trucks trucks there are some modules for the seat that are needed and possibly some programming in the BCM that needs to be corrected. The biggest issue everyone runs into is getting the BCM updated.
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