Incorrect, the fuel system is the same across the board. The extra $100 is for adding the flex fuel sensor into the system and modifying the OEM tune to accept flex fuel. It is an easy fix to some degree, but it will cost around $500 now to convert over to FF.
The injectors for the DI engines are not that much. I was going to order a full set of the LT4 injectors and the LT4 HPFP for my 17 Camaro SS. All total is was going to be $1500 for everything, the pump alone was around $1000 of that bill.
Not going to be possible OP, no matter what you do or use as far as tuning platform. There is no way to remove or stop the adaptive shifting system in the TCM. With that, any capable tuner that uses HP Tuners or EFiLive can go in and tune the transmission for better performance and shifting.
Even if the dealer did this as long as they take them from another 1500 series GM truck it wont matter, the overall tire height is the same across the board for all of the tire options on the 1500 series trucks. The DIC is a rough guess, it is based off of the injection information that the computer knows from the fueling calculation.
i just had the flush done at 26k miles for the shudder, my tach did the same thing bouncing slightly when the shudder happened. I may have to email the engineer I dealt with over at GM and see if he can explain some more in detail with what the next fix will be.
I just got my 2016 Sierra 6.2/A8 back from having the flush done. GM is no longer replacing any torque converters until after the beginning of the year when the new fix comes out 2019 Q1.
I had a 2014 Sierra 6.2 AT and now have a 2016 Sierra 6.2 AT. Both have been solid, only issue I had on my 2016 was a bad injector recently. Took the dealership a week to sort it out. To counter what was said in regards to a CC, GM will not void or deny any warranty in regards to one. All of my vehicles since 2001 have used a CC in some way, shape or form. GM even puts them on the new Corvette and Camaro with the 6.2 from the factory, it works similar to the aftermarket system but doesnt pull from the oily side. When my truck went in for the injector the tech had to look at the pistons, valves and inside of the intake manifold as part of the process to determine if it was the injector or a cracked head. With 26k miles on the clock he said my engine was the cleanest DI engine he had ever seen at that mileage. The tops of my pistons were clean, the inside of the intake was dry and the valves had zero coking on them. He saw my CC and said that was the best move I could have made from the get go, otherwise you need to have a top end cleaning done every 2 years or 25k miles. If you plan on trading in every 3 years then do as you want, if you plan on keeping the truck long term put a CC on it. Plain and simple. My truck has the Airaid CAI kit on it, Katech ported OEM throttle body, a E85 sensor kit, deleted the secondary cats, Magnaflow muffler and no flapper valve or resonator. It is tuned on E85 and I have tuned the transmission as well. AFM has been turned of since day 1 and the truck drives perfectly. I forgot I did just have the trans flushed as part of the shudder issue, waiting to see if it comes back or if I wait for the 2019 Q1 fix that is coming out.
OP you are talking about 2 different system and events here. There is the fan speed for when under a remote start event, that is in the infotainment system. You set that speed and then based on the temp you leave the truck set at the truck will based on outside ambient temps decide if it needs AC or Heat. The "Auto" on the HVAC system is for once the truck is power up and on with the key in the on position, then the system will take over control of the fan speed and such based on the temperature sensors in the system.
i would swap the wheels/tires 1st since you have that planned before you swap out the magride system. That truck will ride rough with those 22" wheels even on the normal suspension system.
Angle of the windshield will have no bearing on if the HUD will work, otherwise the cars with it wouldnt work either. What matters is the coating the HUD as to project against so that you can see it.
I thought the crew cab trucks had a 2 piece DS in it. Most people are swapping over to a 1 piece. The clunk is from the slack in the drive shaft yoke at the transmission. You can pull the driveshaft out of the transmission side, coat the drive shaft yoke in the inside with a thick heavy duty grease and then slide it back in. The grease will take up the slack and quell down some of the noise. There will still be some noise from the rear diff from the slack that is in the ring and pinion gears.
There is more than just flushing the fluid, some years the TSB does require the transmission to be dropped and some clearances in the transmission front pump to be checked to make sure the pump wasnt damaged. My 2016 is going into the dealer in the coming weeks, dealer said they will need it for 1 week to pull the transmission. It will require a new torque converter, fluid, filter and possibly either rebuild the front pump or a new front pump if mine is out of tolerance.
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