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ajmac

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About ajmac

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Andrew
  • Location
    Chicago
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 4X4 CC Summit
  1. The "Catch Can" Explained

    The tech from Elite Engineering mentioned this in a post from last year but never explained his reasoning on this. I realize this is a catch can thread but I'm sure the amount of residue recovered is directly related to the viscosity of the oil being used. I would love to know his views on this and why he advised using 10W40 or 5W50 knowing full well that the recommended oil we "must" use is 0W20. This is his full posting: I thought we should address this before it gets out of hand: If you install a vented breathered, or other type of Catch Can that in any way defeats, deletes, or reduces the OEM functions of the PCV system, yes, that is 100% grounds for a dealer to void your warranty as it can directly cause failure over time to the engine or components. This link here to the FTC's guidelines covers all, but is a long read: https://www.ftc.gov/system/files/documents/federal_register_notices/2015/05/150522mag-mossfrn.pdf This is a more automotive specific summary: https://www.sema.org/sema-enews/2011/01/ftc-validates-right-to-install-aftermarket-parts In short, it is a violation of Federal Law to void your warranty for the installation of one of our systems as we maintain ALL emissions requirements and the installation and use of one of our systems when installed and used properly could in no way cause any damage or failure, just the opposite. The FTC site also has forms and offered assistance to file a complaint if you are scammed by a dealer in regard to this as well as who to bring possible charges against them. Our systems retain a 100% closed system. It in no way (unlike a breather or vented can) reduces any of the OEM functions and in fact converts to full time evacuation when using one of our dual valve versions as all GDI engines should. You also have to beware of Catch Cans that drain-back or return the damaging compounds back to the engine (far more than oil is trapped in a system, water, acids, raw fuel, and abrasive particulate matter mainly), as they are returning a concentrate of what the PCV system is designed to remove. So, only one documented case in our history had a warranty claim denied, and those that followed the story and resolution know the dealer misdiagnosed a bad engine when it was a well know problem, a failed oil pump and the owner ended up fixing it himself. Out of the tens of thousands of our systems in use today, that has been the ONLY case. If a dealer hassles you, there are Mag. Moss specialty law firms that can assist you very inexpensively, but usually just using the FTC is all you need. Now, let’s go on to why you would want to use one of our systems. First, it is a choice, you made the investment in your vehicle and only you can make the decision on how to care for it, so here are some facts to consider: As no fuel touches the intake valves on a GDI engine, the valves are subject to far higher operating temperatures and thus contaminates entering the intake air charge (oil, etc.) bake onto the backsides and rapidly form "coking" deposits. Unlike engines of the past, these deposits bake into a very hard and abrasive formation that is similar to sand in its abrasiveness, so as the particles shed, although most is expelled out the exhaust, some is forced between the piston and cylinder walls causing scouring over time. This damage leads to increased blow-by and oil consumption. Then, we have to look at another factor. As these engines operate at higher compression ratios and the fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber at 2,000-3,000 PSI, many times the amount of raw fuel is pushed past the pings and washes oil from the cylinder walls. This fuel also dilutes the engine oil substantially reducing viscosity and the oils ability to protect properly. Our dual valve systems provide full time evacuation so these damaging compounds are flushed and evacuated (sucked out) as soon as they enter so most is removed before it has a chance to settle and accumulate in the crankcase and the engine oil. Combine this with the abrasive particulate matter also entering the crankcase and never before has it been more important to your engines life to take steps to prevent the wear all GDI engines are subject to. So, we have covered the intake valve coking (we prevent up to 85% of the coking to ever form in the first place). We have explained the fuel washdown and other contaminates and how we deal with them. Now we have the immediate benefits. And that is the reduction of detonation caused knock retard. Your engine as mentioned is a higher compression ratio than past Port Injection engines, so ANY amount of oil mist or other compounds present in the intake air charge contribute to detonation or pre-ignition. By removing these prior to having a chance to enter the intake air charge, you reduce detonation and knock retard and your engine will maintain optimum ignition timing advance making more power and getting better fuel economy. One final aspect is ALL newer engines come with "low tension" piston rings. This is to help the automaker meet ever increasing CAFE fuel economy standards, just like the super thin oils the owner’s manual recommends (has nothing to do with what’s "best" for protecting your engine) and these rings rely on pressure above, and suction below to maintain stability and proper seal. When you allow pressure to build by NOT pulling proper crankcase suction at all times, the rings enter a state known as "Ring Flutter" when pressure is allowed to build. This is the rings vibrating rapidly under heavy loads and high RPM's compounding seal and blow-by issues, and over time wearing the leading edges of the rings as well as the ringlands and wearing divots or chatter marks into the cylinder walls (engine builders see this and know of this). So, there are so many benefits and zero negatives to implementing a system like our E2 or E2-X system. So, we hope this answers your questions. Other tips for avoiding issues: ONLY use a full synthetic oil and at least a 10w40 weight. We prefer Amsoil 5w50 Signature series. It deals very well with the raw fuel washdown, and as full synthetic leaves little to no residue when burned, it greatly reduces the rate of intake valve coking. Top tier fuels. Although they touch nothing inside the engine unlike port injection engines of old, and nothing in the fuel system can benefit from them, they do help keep injectors clean and operating properly. Oil change intervals. As GDI engines are subject to far more of the compounds that overwhelm the engine oils ability to protect, more frequent changes are definitely a good thing. Do NOT rely on that oil change message. We recommend every 5k miles. Do NOT use a solvent based engine running upper induction cleaning!!! While safe on Port injection engines of the past, the abrasive nature of the deposits causes damage when these are loosened with the engine running and are not safe regardless of manufacturer claims. We tear into these motors on a regular basis and see the damage caused. Questions? Ask. Contact our Technical Support team direct at: [email protected] Sales at: [email protected] Does not matter if you own our products or not, we are committed to educating and assisting in every way possible as there is so much mis-information out there it is hard to know what is false, and what is accurate. Cheers!
  2. 2014+ Leveling Kits

    Just want to pass this on....Installed the MotoFab 1.5 under strut spacer block. Piece of cake. Loosened sway bar link, unbolted bottom of strut, removed upper ball joint nut and thats was it. No unbolting of the tie rod or loosening of the 3 upper strut bolts. Start to finish 45 minutes. Perfect .5 inch rake from back to front, exactly what I was looking for.
  3. rear axel leak

    40K and I just noticed seepage at the left rear backing plate. Going in on Monday for a look. (warranty hopefully)
  4. I installed mine yesterday and both mirrors are wired exactly as Bluestreak06 (see above) (also, the orange wire in slot 2 is actually yellow) Anyway....here is my electrical glitch: Everything works perfect except: When you lock the truck with the key fob, then unlock the doors with the fob, the mirror glass on both sides moves into a default position. It won't act up if you lock the doors from the button on the door panel, or unlock the truck with the key. It only screws up when you use the key fob. Anyone have an idea on what could possibly be going on? This happens every time you lock and unlock the doors with the fob.
  5. Chuck, just an FYI...they do make a BlendMount for the Escort MAX. I just ordered one. Thanks for the great write up as well.
  6. Thanks Moto, FYI to anyone interested, on the Sierra, its the fat brown with a yellow tracer and the fat grey with the green tracer. Also, locks and unlocks on one push of the remote.
  7. Jeff, I've been using the Privacy screen protector on my Intellilink for over a month now. It works awesome to darken up the screen. Is there anything in the works to make one of these privacy screens an exact fit for the MyLink or Intellilink?
  8. So the dealer tuned you up eh? I hate when that happens.
  9. Ben, What is "HIM" for MyLink? Can't figure that one out.
  10. Works perfect! Can see everything. If you have sunglasses on during the day, it's a bit difficult, but soooo much better at night. Major failure by GM on that one!!
  11. Jeff from Tech Armor was great to work with. My main issue with the Intellilink screen was that it is way too bright at night, even in the night mode. I can't believe GM does not have dimming capabilities for the NAV screen that doesn't affect the main dash cluster. Anyway....Jeff from Tech Armor suggested I try a privacy screen protector to see if that works. Yes it does, it helps a great deal. He sent me one for an IPad Air and I cut it to fit. It is a high quality product with awesome customer support. Check out his website at http://www.techarmor.com
  12. Just got rid of the Goodyears and put on Michelin LTX MS 2. Huge difference in ride, traction and sidewall squat. Had them on my Duramax and they were awesome.
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