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About ebk

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  1. Hi, I have an 03' Yukon XL AWD with a 4L60E transmission. Does anyone know the torque specs for the transmission mount? From what I have found. the bolts that attach the mount to the transmission get tightened to 18 ft/lbs. However, I cannot find the torque for the nuts for the studs that go through the crossmember. The mount part # is 15113134 and here's a photo of it. Thanks!
  2. Ok, got it. Thanks for the additional tips and info!
  3. Thanks for your help, Starman!! I ordered the Inline set. Great price for the set, btw. Also, do I need to get a pressure bleeder and a flex flare nut wrench (is this 14mm) to do this right? Thanks again!!!
  4. I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
  5. Thanks for the tip. Interesting about the taper hole getting bigger. I guess if the stud spins inside the taper, when it is removed or installed, it finally loosens up. I bet a lot of DIYs and even shops don't bother securing the hex on the end of the stud. They probably just use an impact wrench on it and let it spin inside until it grabs. This was the first replacement on my Yukon so the new stud seated properly and the knuckle had good movement. Not good that some are suggesting to back off the nut until it moves freely. Sounds pretty dangerous.
  6. Driving pretty well. Alignment seems the same, but the steering is definitely tighter. I ended up replacing the upper one while I was at it. Perhaps that helped to keep things relatively lined up. Going to replace the idler arm next, and I will get it aligned after that. You were spot on w your advice, btw, e.g., axle, torsion bar, etc.. Probably would not have moved ahead without it. Funny, it looks so straightforward when it's on one of the videos on a lift with ball joints popping out of the knuckle with a few hammer blows. I guess they edit out the other 50 swings. I really felt my age on this one, but I am really glad I did it. Thanks again!
  7. Thanks again for all the help and feedback. Here are my thoughts after doing it. It's one of those jobs that takes you twice as long the first time you do it. I ended up keeping the bearing hub on the knuckle to save some time. It was a bit heavy, but I didn't need to mess with taking the hub off. You were right about not needing a puller. The hub comes right off. I wasted a lot of time trying to get the first ball joint off without cutting the boot. I was hammered the crap out of it, expecting it to pop off. I was whaling on it with a 3lb hammer with no luck. I finally used the pickle fork with the air hammer and it came off in a few seconds. Used the air hammer to back off the tabs securing the lower joint. The c-arm was a pain, and I could have used a extra hand to keep it together. I had to get the extender kit to for the additional sized cups. The ones in the starter kit wouldn't have done it. I put the new ones in and it took some effort to get them on. The upper one started out a little crooked and finally straightened out. I have a 3 foot 1/2" breaker bar and i was putting every ounce of energy into it to get it to move. I am kind of surprised that the c-arm didn't give way. Also, I started out with a cheap air hammer that had a short stroke, not enough power, and it didn't work. I had to get a second one that had enough juice. This was one job where the right tools are a must. Thanks again!!
  8. Thanks for the additional tips and for all of your help! Will try to do it today and keep you posted.
  9. I have the c-arm press and cups that fit. I had to get the expansion kit to get it right. I ordered a cheap air hammer with a chisel, a pickle fork set, and a hammer attachment. I should be set. Let me know the best way to get that hub off. Do I need a hub puller? Thanks again!
  10. Thanks, guys! I really appreciate the advice. I will get the tools that you had suggested and keep you posted. Any pearls of wisdom on getting the bearing hub off? Thanks again!
  11. Great, thanks again! I will definitely check out the play in the bushings. I would love to squeak by, at this point, with just the ball joint. I will let you know how it goes. Looks like others have had some difficulty getting them out. The factory joints are pressed in and some metal is displaced on the top edge of the BJ to help keep them in place. I guess if use a chisel to push these tabs back, perhaps I won't have too much of an issue getting them out. Do you have any suggestions with ball joints like these?
  12. Thank you for the sound advice! Do you have any suggestions on control arm brands?
  13. I have a 2003 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L AWD and need to replace one of the lower ball joints. I looked at the control arm bushings and the inside lips of them are cracked with portions missing, but the thicker outside lips are solid. I have no noticeable symptoms, other than the up and down play of the ball joint. I've read some horror stories about some control arm bushing removal and replacement. The control arms are cast or forged steel, not the stamped or aluminum ones. Also, the bushings are the the solid rubber ones with no metal outer sleeve. The questions for you are: how much additional work is it to replace the bushings, and how much of a pain is it to press out and in the bushings with a handheld ball joint press? Also, I want to do this without having to do an alignment, and I am assuming that I might be able to get away with it, if I just do the ball joint. However, I am thinking that it would be necessary, if I do the bushings. Also, I understand that I need to release the tension from the torsion bar for the bushings or support the control arm for just the ball joint. I would appreciate your feedback on any or all of the above and any tips that you might have. Thanks for your help!
  14. Thank you for the confirmation, elcamino, as well as for the caution re Dexron VI. There's a lot of confusion out there re its backward compatibility.
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