Scott P

After it sat at the dealership all day, turns out to be a bad coil. That is a relief.

After driving from Houston to Raleigh, my 2014 Sierra starting running rough and threw a P0306 code at the last exit of our trip. The check engine light is flashing, the TCS light is on solid and I have a misfire on cylinder 6 per the code reader at Advance Auto. The closest dealer is a Chevy dealer and I have an 8:45 appointment Monday morning. Hopefully they can get it fixed so we can make the return trip. In 2019, I had to replace the AFM lifters in cylinder 1. They replaced just cylinder one, only to have them fail again after three months and then do the whole bank. I guess the other side of my engine felt unloved and wanted in on the action. I just wish it could have done it back home. The truck only has about 63,000 miles on it.

I'm still rocking my factory headlights on my 2014 Sierra AT. A drive home Christmas night reminded me of how ineffective my headlights are. I'd like to replace the headlight bulbs with something brighter. I don't want the bright white look. I also don't think I am quite willing to drop $300 on HID retrofit kits. I don't plan on keeping the truck for more than a year. I've done several searches and read through several threads so far. My options seem to be halogen replacements, LED replacements and an HID upgrade. Any current thoughts, opinions or recommendations? A matching color or brightness upgrade to the fog lights would be nice too.

My condenser failed earlier this week. Well, it's been cool, so that is when I noticed it. 2014 with 48,000 miles. I called my regular dealer and was quoted $1,300-$1,500 to fix. No help offered from GM for my VIN number. Has anyone contacted a GM Customer Care group for help in the cost? I could replace it myself I imagine, but I'd rather have a pro do it.

The truck idles around 500 rpm. When the shake occurs, it does move the needle a tiny bit. That is why I thought something was off after the lifter repair. I have no idea what that number was previous to the repair though, so I have nothing to compare it to. Unfortunately, I do not have access to a programmer/tuner or whatever it would take to bump that idle up.

Thanks for that link. I swear I looked some time ago for one, but must have missed it. The whole removal of the starter motor part is a bit disappointing though.

I've had a bit of an slightly noticeable engine shake for several months on my 2014 Sierra AT with the 5.3L. In July 2019, the AFM lifter was replaced on cylinder 1. In March of 20, the same problem popped up again and the full TSB solution was used to replace AFM lifters and spark plugs on that whole cylinder bank along with a new oil manifold, etc. All done under warranty (42,000 miles on the clock at that point). A bad plug on cylinder 3 was replaced a day later. Ever since that point, the truck has had a minor shake/shudder at idle. It feels similar to, but "duller" than how it feels when a cylinder drops from AFM failure. I had the dealer look at it and both the service manager and tech took it for a drive. No engine codes or misses were detected. The tech and advisor both felt it was possibly the motor mounts. But, since they are not covered under the powertrain warranty and that "it would take a couple hours to diagnose", we didn't go any further. I've been driving the truck as is. It's noticeable mostly when coming up to a stop light or when the engine is warm. How likely is it the motor mounts? Has anyone experienced this issue? A search of the site here didn't come up with anything. If It is something that can be replaced, how difficult is the job? Can I knock it out in the driveway?

Air/train horns rank right up there with the Rolling Coal group in douchey attention whoring behavior.

I like those tires. That is what should have come on this truck. Too bad it will be long time before I need new ones.

I ordered my BakFlip from Morrie at the BakFlip Factory Outlet. The chat box comes up on the website and you can ask for the discount there.

I ended up with a BakFlip Fibermax and it is great so far. I bought from Morrie at BakFlip Factory Outlet and got a very good price and fast shipping.

I've nailed it down to a BakFlip, but have to decide between the Fibermax and F1. I'm leaning towards the Fibermax since it is a bit cheaper.

This is my first truck, so I don't have any actual experience for what cover will work best for me. I'm leaning towards a Bak Flip version right now. I don't know if I really like the rear window being blocked when open, but I don't think it would be a problem in real world operation. I drove my fathers step van and his box truck several times and learned to use my mirrors. The back up camera is also there.My neighbor has used Roll N Lock on his past two trucks and likes them. I don't know if I want to lose the bed space though as these short bed trucks aren't actually big to start. I live in Houston and the truck sits outside, so it will be subject to the intense sun and weather. I want a surface that will stand up without fading while being easy to care for. If I went with a roll up type, it might be a Retrax because of the powder coated aluminum surface. I also will probably install one of those swing out bed boxes at the back of the bed, so it would need to work with the cover. I'd appreciate any opinions if they are out there.

Thanks! I'll have to contact them.

My father has one on his 2009 Silverado. Both rear hinges have broken in the middle. He hasn't replaced them yet since he doesn't consider it a problem. I think replacements are $50 each or so.

What are the benefits of the integrated one being tied to the Stabilitrak system? I figure if I am towing the potential camper in weather conditions that may warrant Stabilitrak kicking in, I'd probably be driving carefully already. I am in Houston, so snow is not an issue. Will sudden stops or lane changes cause it to kick in?

I never thought about removing it when not needed. That is a great idea. I think I could figure out a way to make it easy enough to remove with minimal work. So the wires just plug into the back of the unit?

I am getting very close to buying a leftover 2014 Sierra and am getting hung up on one stupid option, the integrated trailer brake controller. This is my first truck and I plan on keeping it for several years. I don't have anything to tow right now, but I do anticipate getting a 20-something foot camper within the next year or two. So, I will probably need a trailer brake controller or some sort. I like the look of the factory integrated controller. I like that it is tied into the Stabilitrak system (as I have been told). But, I am finding it not present on many trucks that I am finding. I know I can install an aftermarket controller like a P3, but then i'd have a box under the dash where it would look tacked on and possibly be something to ram my knees into all the time. My question basically is this. How valid are my concerns. Aside from the stabilty connection, they are pretty much cosmetic. For those that went aftermarket, how does it look? Does it get in the way or look simply tacked on?