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About sputtle

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  • Birthday 11/04/1984

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  1. I agree with Mike. This is most certainly a fuel delivery problem. Actually sounds like a weak fuel pump. The pump primes when you turn the key and builds pressure. That pressure can quickly drop and then the engine is starved. Without seeing the engine I'm not sure the best way to troubleshoot this. But if you have a valve somewhere on a fuel delivery line, you want to hookup a pressure meter there and watch it as it runs.
  2. Thanks for the advice. I won't really know what I have until the top end is rebuilt. As it sits right now, I don't run the engine at all. When I first tried it when I got it home, it did start right up with ease, with a squirt of ether. But within seconds coolant was coming out of the exhaust and I turned the engine off. So idling to temp is out of the question. I do want to replace all the gaskets. Head, oil pan, valve covers, everything. In that process I'll put on new heads and inspect the rod bearings and cylinder walls. When I get to that point I'll post some pictures for a little feedback. I'm pretty handy around the garage, but by no means an expert. For the next couple weeks tho, I'm clearing out junk cars and semi-preparing for winter. Keep the advice coming, it's always welcome. Thanks again for the replies I've already gotten.
  3. Thanks for the advice, ifixedit. I don't think this engine ran very long at all with coolant in the motor, aside from that day it overheated. My biggest concern was the length of time it sat with coolant in the crank case. I've heard before that it can corrode bearings, but I never understood why. I think I'll go ahead and rebuild the top end and hope for the best.
  4. The motor has been swapped out once before. The engine that is in it is an '86. I thought about upgrading to fuel injection but that's a lot more than I want to get into right now. I really just want to get it drivable again with good power.
  5. I've been trying to find a straight forward answer to what exactly happens when coolant is in the engine oil. So from the beginning, my step brother is a dork. He borrowed my dad's farm truck and while driving, a coolant hose failed. The engine was smoking and obviously overheating, however, he didn't know that you need to stop. Most likely, the heads are cracked because coolant now comes out of the tailpipe. That was 2 years ago. The truck sat with some amount of coolant in the engine the whole time. So what damage did that cause? I've always heard it's bad, but why? Was it eating away at the metal? When I first got into this truck, my plan was to just replace the engine with a used one, but I'm not finding one in my area do now I'm thinking I may just rebuild the top end. Can I simply pull the oil pan and inspect the crank?
  6. Seems silly, but crawl under there and see if there is something mashed up in the linkage. Also, make sure there isn't any rust impeding the movement from the lever. This happened to me once.. When I was 13, I took the old farm truck mudding in our neighbor's field and got stuck. Dad was pretty pissed, so was the neighbor. I got stuck because it wouldn't go into 4x4. I mashed so much mud up into it, the lever wouldn't fully move. If that's not it, sounds like a transfer case problem.
  7. E-brake didn't fully release? Play with it some, it might solve the problem.
  8. The only way to know for sure is to take it all apart and verify it visually. I've heard that a trained ear on a stethoscope can tell without disassembling anything, but mine is not trained and I'm not sure how to do that. Getting to the part and seeing it malfunction is the best way I know of.
  9. The dimmer is working pretty well, feels flimsy though. I think I'm going to pull the dash out again and double check for bulbs. I thought they were all on but I was struggling to hold two wires on the contacts and check bulbs at the same time. Also, I searched around amazon and found LED replacement bulbs. That should run better and brighter on the old wiring, I would think.
  10. Double check the cam, crank and distributor are timed correctly.
  11. Nice pics. Seems to be the way to do this. Definitely something I'll keep in mind. How did the battle with rusty bolts on the bed go? These usually are never touched after the truck is built. Just curious. I'm from Minnesota, so every car I work on requires WD-40 Haha And did changing the pump solve the problem?
  12. ^^^ Sounds about right. For an extra check, take some quick measurements and write them down. Measure the tailgate panel width, panel height and the center of the hinge bolt/stud to the center of the latch. Eyeball the latch size, if you want. If all that stuff measures the same on what you buy, I think you can be very confident it's the exact same part.
  13. Yep, I think that's your problem. Electric motors slow down a bit in cold weather and can cause tough starts.
  14. Wow, that's weird. Lol. Never seen an intermittent power transfer problem like that. Well, keep an eye on it. If it does it again, maybe you'll find something. Maybe take a quick look at the transmission fluid. If it's burned at all, a flush might solve the problem. But I dunno, this isn't giving me the feeling of a transmission problem. But if it is burned and you want to flush it, it's not too hard to do yourself. If you want some steps on how it's done, let me know.
  15. If they have never been replaced, then buying new is the safest route. When I worked on mine, everything was in pretty good shape. The fuel tubes weren't brittle and the gasket for the injectors was good, so mine had been changed at some point. If you take it out and everything is dirty, brittle, brown fuel lines, then your best bet is to put in a new unit. It's also a judgement call. I have more time to work on things than I have money to throw at vehicles, so I don't mind taking the chance and seeing what happens. If you just want it done with, then I'd recommend buying new injectors.
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