Thanks Kent, yeah, I realize selling dealer can not really do something except maybe a push, but did say phone calls to the customer service center is the best approach to elevate the case. Repairing dealer looking to see if pulling the fuse will get the truck back in service - pulling the bad module will probably set some codes ........they are going to look at it and let it sit overnight to see if it still discharging from anything else - seat module is the most likely suspect but need to verify. Thanks for your input ......
Talked with repairing dealers "Customer Experience Manager" and are upping my lack of part to fix my truck to the GM District Manager. Called Dealer at which the truck was purchased and asked for a push from them - did not trust the truck to go 35 miles to them due to jump starting particularities - high amp flow on charge before jump. Selling Dealer had me go back to GMC.com Customer Service on call in - ended up being on text. Gave them my reference number and they will get back to me in two business days. There are many trucks that sit at the dealer waiting for a part - like two months. I could request a loaner Pickup Truck as the next step. I was told if it sits for more than thirty days GM would help pay my note on the purchase - mostly cash, trade in and tiny note ........... not interested. I am going to see where this goes, but a new truck with the correct part would be my chosen direction - exact same truck and swap them out ................. Day 15 out of service today !
Nope - new part number is 23338340 and the old part number is 13517130 and the new part is not available from GM - GM online part stores have this reversed and wasted a bunch of time finding a 13517130 at another dealer which was in stock, but what you want is the the part number that fixes problems with the old unit - not working and/or draining the battery. No timing from GM other than a few days out for 23338340 - a $100 part has taken my truck out of service for 15 days so far. Don't understand why GM can't pull parts from the assembly plant to get our trucks back on the road ......... Grrrrrr !
Still searching for a seat control module - some more data on Power Seat Control Module causing dead battery. What are the symptoms of a bad Power Seat Control Module? Symptoms of a malfunctioning power seat control module might include the seat not moving in one or more directions when the switches are actuated, or the seat not moving at all. On vehicles equipped with seat heaters with controls mounted with the power seat controls, inoperative seat heaters may be a symptom of a faulty control module. Also, in some cases, seat setting memory loss may result from a bad seat control module. Occasionally, a dead battery or a blown fuse can be a symptom of a bad control module as well. Seat Memory Control Module - GM (13517130) List Price: $168.92 You Save: $58.96 (34.90% off) Sale Price: $109.96 Make sure this part fits your car
Checked multiple online GM part sources for the Seat Control Module - most show the Seat Control Module - but none are in stock and are back ordered and GM as no expected release date. So I wait until GM comes through with a release date and a replacement part - not just plug and play, has to be programmed. May be easier to just order a new truck ..............
Have a 2020 Sierra 1500 Denali - Purchased in December 2019 - best GM truck I have owned. First week in February attempted to remote start - nothing; then changed battery in remote - nothing; go out to the cold truck and manually unlocked - totally dead - 3.5 volts; charged overnight with my regular battery charger - amps pegged out on full charge, switched to 2 amp slow charge and pulled 8 amps ??. Left overnight and got in to bring to dealer - DIC showed "Extremely low fuel level" - I thought that maybe I did not turn the truck off and ran all the gas out - got my 6 gal can of premium fuel and topped it off - took 4 gallons ?? Started and took to dealer - fuel warning gone, but CEL on of course. Sat a day at the dealer - they looked at it next day and came up with a dead cell in the battery - replace with new battery and took home to live happily ever after. Used the truck next several days and sat over the weekend. Went to start on Tuesday and dead again - charged on low setting overnight - 5 amps on 2 amp setting ?? - dealer put "analyzer" on the truck and saw a parasitic discharge for a while and then went away. Kept on machine over the weekend and Seat Control Module wanted to communicate 290 times by Monday morning. Ordered Seat Control Module - 2 days later, GM does not have a seat control module in stock and is backordered. GM is now looking around the country for a Seat Control Module .......... I know it "talks" to the Body Control Module (I see a couple of those going bad too) ..... waiting to see if GM can find the Seat Control Module. Have a loaner small SUV from the dealer, but truck is my long distance family visiting machine ............
Retractable Bullrings work great - have them in the 4 corners. I like that they retract and will not snag bags of stuff going in the bed like the GM removable tiedown rings will if you do not remove them. Had the Retractable Bullrings on the top of the bed rail on my 2004 Sierra HD Duramax and used them a lot hauling large cargo and could not use the bottom tiedown rings. They had a sale on the Bullrings for the new pickups - like buy six and get two free - maybe good for a friend as I would not utilize all those tiedowns - just need the 4 corners.
Have a Double Cab SLT - 4 bottom tiedown rings in truck with 9 upper access holes to utilize the GM removable tiedown rings. If you install a plastic bed liner make sure it has the 9 upper access holes already cut out in the bedliner. My dealer had to cut mine out of the liner and they did not match up correctly - even when cut out to match access holes the GM removable tiedown rings were going to be next to impossible to remove. I had the dealer remove the plastic bedliner and install a Sprayin liner and put in the GM rubber bed mat. I then got Bulldog retractable tiedown rings and installed on the 4 upper corners - I kept the plastic access hole plugs installed when the liner sprayed in and then just cut out the 4 corners (just be sure to cut on the plastic plug to avoid scratching the paint). Sprayin liner with the bed mat and the Bulldog rings is the best solution in my opinion. My old truck had the upper tiedowns on top of the bed rail - could not do on top of the rail with the SLT and Rollup Bed cover.
The bottom 4 tiedowns do indeed have predrilled holes and covers to go with them, but the top ones did not have any holes (GM Bedliner) and had to drill out if you wanted to use the upper tiedowns with the removable tie downs that GM supplies with the new trucks. My dealer did not have any bedliner and could not get any with the top 9 tiedown holes drilled out - the bedliner just did not fit very well if you ever wanted to use the upper tiedowns - you may be able to get the GM tiedowns in, but next to impossible to remove and relocate as designed. I'm running the spray in liner, GM bed mat and GM rollup tanneau cover. I do use the upper tie downs - my 2004 GMC Sierra had access holes on the top of the rail that I installed some retractable Bull Ring tie downs in the 4 corners, but the rail top is not accessible to install the same for the 2014. The dealer pulled the GM bedliner and gave me a swap for the spray in bedliner ........I did the mat. I find it really strange that I am the first one for my dealer that wanted a bedliner and wanted to use the upper tie downs too .........
Voltage will drop when the battery is fully charged and few accessories are being used - will go back to 14.7 or so to charge the battery. Will tend to drop on longer trips and go back up after a while. I assume there is a reverse current relay to ding the DIC if there is a charging problem.
I fought the GM molder bedliner for a couple days. The dealer drilled out the 6 holes on the side using the molded in dimple to center the hole - all the holes were off by one half inch, so ground out to allow tiedowns to be inserted. But I did not like the liner sitting off the bed wall so much and would have made it very difficult to insert the GM tiedowns and next to impossible to remove them. My dealer said I was the first one that wanted to use the upper tiedowns and were unsure of what needed to be done to fix. Well, I had them take out the plastic bedliner and put a "Spray in Liner" with a bed mat. The spray in liner was installed over all the plastic plugs in the bed - just used a razor knife to cut out the plugs that I wanted to utilize and left the other ones installed - very easy to do due to the spray in liner not sticking to the plastic plugs. I just cut around the plug, but still on the plastic and then yanked the plugs out - destroyed the 4 plugs though. I then installed "Silverado Bull Ring Retractable Tiedowns" - these can be left in the truck full time fully retracted. I am very satisfied with my truck tiedown set up and overall bed protection.
Not easy to change the starter on the road. If you have driven it for a while it should be fine in the cold Canadian Rockies. If you are still worried, just put the new part number starter on now and have that peace of mind.
When my old non functioning starter was pulled off I checked out the seal very carefully and found it to be very well sealed - the dealer did try an overnight bake out procedure with this starter and it still would not work in very cold conditions. I think that the moisture was sealed in at the factory in Mexico and is causing the problem. If these style starters from Valeo, produced in Mexico have defective seals that allow moisture into the solenoid that would have produced many more failures and on some older trucks too - again, no data, just my guess. I also think that over time any moisture present in the affected starters does diffuse out at the high operation temperature of the starter when on a running engine for a longer time. I would bet that a southern truck with a potential defective starter due to sealed in moisture would not have a problem if driven for a while in the south and then came up north with the frigid conditions that we can have - again, just speculation. I would have loved to have pulled my defective starter apart to check for moisture or grease. My new starter of the same part number has performed flawlessly with many low temperature starts. One owner had a bad ground cable that caused a no start condition - clean up and tighten the ground - start Several owner have had high resistance in positive battery cable to the starter - change cable and - start Some owner have had loose connections at the battery to cause a no start - tighten up and start One owner had a defective battery - change battery - start The dealer can run through these 4 items very quickly and then just put the new part number starter on and DONE and out the door in 4 hours - which is what I did - after the bake out procedure was tried with an overnight stay at the dealer ........... they just need to change the starter and I would have saved a trip to the dealer, the rental car (they paid), back to the dealer, pull the starter, wait 4 hours and then go home ............now happy.
I have had good success with an out of stock old part #12645040 ..........to replace a non working starter of the same part number. This part number is also for 2013 GM trucks and they have not had a problem like we are seeing now with the 2014 GM trucks in the cold north. Only empirical evidence, but sure looks like Valeo did something "different" in their plant to cause this problem for the 2014's. Any process change Valeo made should have gone through PFMEA (Process Failure Mode Effects Analysis), but they may have missed the "high humidity" or "too much grease" conditions that may be the root cause(s) of the non functioning starters. GM must have put Valeo on notice and went after a second supplier of the "redesigned" starter - at great expense to GM, not to mention the wrath that Valeo is probably facing. The frustrating issues is that GM knows the high probability root cause of the non start condition - a truck with a non start condition should be checked at the dealer for 1.Battery condition 2.Proper connection of both battery cables at battery and termination points 3. High resistance of the positive battery cable .....if all is ok here then change the starter to the #12655055 part ...........4 hours DONE (no overnight - duplicate the problem "hokeypokey"), out the door and a better all around situation for the new owner, the dealer and GM. Why are dealers still screwing around with the new owners - GM needs to tell ALL the dealers the proper remedy.
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