topshelfproducts

I see the hitch pin is not in. With the hitch pin in do they still fit?

Yes it is a bit frustrating at the pricing for a one time hook up. I get the vin license cost etc, but it really can't vary much from one truck to the next. Maybe a bit of data log fine tuning to really dial stuff in. I guess I am wondering if it is really worth it, or if I should just change the trans fluid and filters frequently and cross my fingers. Thanks for your reply.

Thank you! Yes the more I read it seems removing some torque management but not all can help with longevity. I am wondering if the autominder removes tm and if so how much.

New to me 2016 2500hd with the 6.0. I really love the truck so far, I see a banks automind tuner listed locally for the truck for $200.00. My local HP Tuner gm specialist said he could tune the truck for $450.00. The truck is primarily going to be used for towing car trailers. Currently only has 55k miles on it and has been well serviced. I want the truck to last, and really only want to add tuning if it will give me better shift points and help with the longevity, as I realize horsepower and torque tuning on a stock truck doesn't make big numbers. I have done a lot of reading, and like much of the internet anymore the answers vary greatly from site to site. So my question is, does removing torque management wear the transmission faster, or allow it to live longer? Can someone explain it to me like I am 5? I would think logically the manufacturer would put torque management in for longevity, but have read many others that saying tuning it out actually can help it last longer. Also has anyone ran the banks tuner on a similar setup?

Anyone else? I don't mind paying just want great fitment.

Hey gang, been a minute but back with a new to me truck. I bought some ventvisors on ebay but fitment is garbage. I don't want in channel, anyone have any recommendations for brand with best fit?

Been a while, good to be back. Been running a 2015 Cummins for a while and with diesel prices im getting over using it as a daily. I have it in the dealer for service and the tech working on it I have known for some time. He likes the truck and is wanting to trade me his 2011 Silverado 1500 Ext cab LTZ with 88k miles and a whipple added. Anything I need to look for when looking the truck over? How often should the superchargers themselves really be serviced? Any similar setup with real world review? MPG? I know a stupid question relative on your foot to pedal ratio but curious if daily driving is the same better or worse?

Rough Country 2.5" leveling kit with the rear 2" spacer swapped for the stock block spacer. Fuel Maverick 20x9 +1 wrapped in bf goodrich ko2 in a 275/60-20. Love the look overall, the tires look amazing in person. I do still surprisingly slightly rub in reverse only at full lock. Haven't heard it going forward. Again, night and day difference and I love the look of the truck now. Offset is where I wanted it. Stock. To 2013 sierra wheels in the midterm, to the current setup. Seems to ride just a bit bouncier than stock, but nothing bad, I am still on the stock rancho's. In montana the stock chromes where awesome when clean, but hard to keep clean.

I use mine all the time, the dogs love it and I also use a vaporizer and on the interstate with the window all the way open you can hardly tell.

My father in law has his 2014 silverado 1500 z71 5.3l over 140k miles, he works in the bakken and drives all day every day. Hasn't even had to change a light bulb, but he never serviced his transmission once and now it is slipping, so he will be trading in. He usually does every 2 years and only gets chevys. He changed the fluid and added lucas and it has stopped slipping, but he still wants to trade, other than that nothing but oil changes and he beats on it 7 days a week on gravel and dirt roads. Makes me more comfortable driving my gmc and taking care of it.

^^^ sick!

Before the snow fell, there isn't any car washes even open now, its killing me!

Yes I dont need the drain tube either. And I assume they send everything as a package regardless of application...so the extras are included for different cars. Yes I dont need the drain tube either. And I assume they send everything as a package regardless of application...so the extras are included for different cars.

Yes I dont need the drain tube either. And I assume they send everything as a package regardless of application...so the extras are included for different cars.

First 2 pictures are after 500 miles, lots of moisture in it. Temps are ranging from 0-50 here recently.. These 3 pictures are after a 1200 mile interstate trip...

Mine showed in a week painted white, I emptied after a couple hundred miles and ended up with a shotglass full of really stinky oil syrup. I was really skeptical on the price, but well worth it imo knowing what it is pulling out. I am in the middle of a trip all the way across Montana up to Canada and back and will empty when I get home with pictures.

Both are pics on my 5.3L. I was making it much harder than it was. Very impressed with the can quality, for the price I better be. Installed at 2500 miles, for thanksgiving I am driving across Montana to the border and back, and will drain afterwords and report my findings. I did have quite a bit of residue already in my intake and build up on throttle body. The weather has already been below zero a few times this last week so I assume I will have some milky build up as the other pictures have shown. Curious if any of you guys running e85 if you see more or less build up? We don't have it here. Also to answer the question above, there is no bank on passenger side at all.

And to confirm the line from the throttle body goes to center. And the line from the middle of motor goes to the off center check valve on the can? Thanks guys!

Or better yet, can someone simply confirm that the connection above the throttle body remains, and that the connection below the throttle body to half way back on the motor is removed. The catch can is then ran in place of that lower hose, with each hose coming off the catch can replacing where they connect on the factory line? So no t necessary and no capping off of anything, correct? I am thrown off as the kit included multiple t's and caps to cap off, but I assume that would be if I bought the other parts other than just the catch can?

I guess the video is so much different than on the 5.3L motors. The connections on the throttle body are in the same spot, however in the video on the 6.2L there is simply one small line that needs to be disconnected. On the 5.3L there is a line going from the top connection at the throttle body to all the way back behind the motor where I can't see. The below throttle body connection goes about half way back on drivers side to the valve cover. Wondering where these lines are capped, t'd, or removed all together?

Wondering if someone can help me out with some pictures on the 5.3L with this installed?

I had it installed so honestly not sure, but it looks rock solid.

Stampede brand, it screws in on each side and fits perfectly, no vibrating, does fine in the car wash etc and the fit is top notch.