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About hihosilverado

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  1. I think this could go either way. Some parts of the country are going to be hit a lot harder than others and in those areas where people "get back to normal" in a month or so and want to buy vehicles inventory might be tight. Or.....it could go the other way.
  2. How heavy are those torsion keys? I suppose if you stuffed enough of them around the front end of the truck to weigh it down they might lower it a bit. On a different note, did 2wd GM trucks ever use torsion bars? Why would anyone lower a 4wd?
  3. I agree with jlong1987. No reason not get it the new truck if you like it and can afford it. Do you give up any incentives to get the 0% rate?
  4. I think this is typical for KO2s. I don't have them on my 2020 (yet) but had them in a 275/55/20 on my 2018. I found that the growl at that speed got a bit better with a few more miles and was also somewhat dependent upon road surface. They were nice and quiet on the highway above 60 mph though. Discount Tire likes to run these around 50 psi since they are a LT tire, which I understand is probably correct and supported by what load they can carry at that psi. However, I found mine made less noise at about 40 psi cold, rode much better, and still wore like iron.
  5. I can attest to the amount of work involved to compound, polish, and decon the paint to do a coating. I did the work myself and it took me about 10 hours work, and it wasn't my first rodeo with this type of work. The clearcoat on these trucks is pretty hard (which is good to prevent future swirls) and it took a lot of work with my DA polisher to correct the paint. I am a cheap bastard so I wouldn't want to pay someone to do it for me, but $1200 - $1600 does not seem out of line. I used the new blackfire ceramic coating and am pleased with the results. The consumer grade coatings (like what I used) don't have the longevity of the "pro" coatings but still offer at least 12 months of real protection on a properly prepped surface and make the truck super easy to wash.
  6. Threads like this continue to add to my tire confusion. I badly want a set of stock size 275/55r20 K02s and am willing to sacrifice a bit of ride quality, mpg, and noise. There just does not seem to be a consensus on whether these tires ride nice or like crap, slightly lower MPG or completely kill it, and are whether they are quiet or deafening. Why do they have to be such nice looking tires????
  7. The noise is gone. The only defect might be that the collar on the old one didn’t fit as snug around the column.
  8. I ended up swapping mine out on Saturday as the “grease trick” was starting to wear off. Three 10mm nuts on the firewall and one 15mm bolt on the shaft. Push up to compress the shaft and disengage from the lower portion and slide the boot off by pushing the shaft (rotates freely) towards the engine (so the boot clears the brake booster) and reverse for the new one. I packed the new one with GM superlube grease that it plastic and rubber safe. I could have gone to the dealer and gotten covered under warranty but get satisfaction out of fixing things myself.....
  9. Thanks to TrickyMick for the tutorial. I have silenced mine (temporarily??) by using a needle tip grease gun adapter and packing the area between the shaft and collar with green mercury marine outdrive bearing grease. If it comes back I will be doing exactly what TrickyMick did.
  10. I used a grease gun with a flexible hose and needle tip. The grease in the gun is made by mercury marine for lubing various points on boat outdrives and bearings. It’s tacky and should tolerate heat and water. The boot seems to have a collar inside and there is play between the collar and boot and collar and column. I just pumped a bunch in all the “gaps” and wiped the excess off the column.
  11. I tried the grease trick and my noise went away! If it comes back, I would rather replace the boot myself than fool with the dealer as the boot is pretty cheap. Anyone know how this part comes off? Just the three nuts on the firewall and the 15mm bolt on the shaft close to the coupling?
  12. Here is my list, not all of them are pickup trucks but "trucks" nonetheless Present: 1979 Dodge Power wagon: Pros--it still runs and drives good, has a winch, lift, big rubber, a 440, and a dump bed, ice cold AC..... Cons--its old, smells, has some rust on the floor, gets 9 mpg, looks like a turd 2002 Chevrolet Silverado: Pros--drives nice and sporty, seems higher and much better on hunting roads than the new one, pretty much everything about it.....Cons--regular cab space issues and a much stiffer ride than the extended cab 2004 Chevrolet Silverado: Pros--super smooth everything, comfy seats with all the lumbar and heat, Bose and automatic climate control, and I like the DIC stuff Cons--more little buzzes and rattles than I like, and I would love a 5 speed auto Previous: 1996 Land Rover Discovery: Pros--I could fix everything wrong with it myself, 5sp manual and extreme easiness of modifications (lift, winch, tires, racks)....Cons--I hate to fix things all the time 1999 Mitsubishi Montero (fullsize Monty): Pros--Nice size and comfort.....Cons--total lemon, all kinds of stuff always breaking 2001 Land Rover Discovery Series 2: Pros--I just love the character of these things......Cons--typical Land Rover quality issues 2004 Nissan Titan: Pros--engine and tranny were incredible, nice looks and could tow great, everyone liked it, especially the thieves that stole it.....Cons--the interior lacked durability, everything knicked and scratched within a month, really cheap feeling seats, brakes rotors warped twice in 3 months, buzzes and rattles, AC leaked condensation leaked onto floor even after it was *fixed* twice, power windows did not like to roll up on occasion....
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