DirtyMarcus

Just do the next potential owner of the truck a big favor if you keep running E85. Let them know you continuously ran E85 in the truck, even though its not E85 compatible. Theres more to it than having bigger injectors and pump.

No issues at all. I actually just did a 5 hour drive and today and didn't have one problem with it. You may need to send your module back in to have it updated. Contact Range and let them know of your issues.

I bought the Range device used on here. Its a night and day difference for me. Some people say they cant tell the difference but I think its depends on driving style and conditions. The AFM really hurts the trucks performance in the city with lots of stop and go. Some people are concerned with fuel mileage loss with it disabled. IMO, if you are concerned with fuel mileage you need to go by a prius not a truck.

I like it. Those 22s do a lot in the way of making the drop look bigger. I have a 2/3 drop and need some 22's now lol.

youre over thinking this man. Besides, when the zombie apocalypse comes I'm pretty sure most cars getting all bloody and smashed up will be new cars not old unreliable junkers.

Well I put it in the build section but no one ever looks there. I plast dipped my truck matte clear this weekend, then zombified it. I still have some plans for it. Gonna splash some more red dip on the side, instead of rubbing it on, to make it look a little more realistic. Ill probably write "infectious blood, do not touch" on the tailgate. Gonna dip the rims black this week and redo some of the writing. Who knows what else, im sure more ideas will come to mind.

I had the same issue intermittently a few times. Just like you, only at slow speed (maybe 2-5 mph). A few times Ive felt the brakes pulsate like I was losing traction. I have no idea whats caused it. I have a 2/3 drop though and it hasnt happened in a month.

This thread is full of answers to your question. Some don't have any issues, some need driveshafts cut,I needed shim and a carrier bearing kit. Each truck is different and no one can answer your question on what you will need after a shackle install, prior to any work being done. Sounds like your best bet will be to let a shop do all the work for you.

Got more pics of your trucks? Looks pretty sweet and what size rims? As for alignment, I'm lowered 2" up front with spindles. The shop I took it to for alignment didn't need to do anything special and got it near perfect. What did you do to get the 2" drop, springs?

I did a shackle install and block removal. My truck is a crew cab standard bed though. It seems RCSB trucks dont experience a lot of issues. You may want to check the driveshaft length and check out the vibration issues thread. Of course you did say it didnt appear until the shackle install. Any good suspension shop should be able to help. FWIW I still get the popping noise in reverse on my passenger side. Not always but it is present. Unsure what is causing it.

Well, I finally got the carrier bearing kit installed yesterday. They ended up using 4 degree shims and the carrier bearing to get everything lined up. I thought the 4 degree shims were a bit extreme but the truck has no more vibration or humming like it used to. Plus if I ever decide to go lower all I should have to do is get new shims and the carrier realigned.

I didnt loosen the front bolt. I figure it was tightened correctly at the factory and since I didnt loosen it, no need to readjust. I havent had any noise or binding either. But you bring a good point on the bed seam, that could be the issue.

Take it elsewhere. They should be measuring the angle of the driveline to determine if you even need shims. Like I said its not something you can eyeball. If I were you I'd take it to a 4wheel parts store. The deal with driveline issues from lifting trucks all the time. Plus since they are a corporation, they will get it right or you can take it back. The only down side it they are probably more expensive than most places. For them to add shims, carrier bearing kits, and get all the driveline measured correctly on my truck its running me about $300, $100 of which is parts.

What are you saying is a 1/2" off? The leaf springs? That bolt going through the leaf spring sits inside the perch that is welded to the axle. This is what helps prevent the leaf springs from shifting around, in addition to the u bolts. When you take the truck back to the shop, make sure they tightened the shackles with the truck under load. You can do this two ways, either with the truck back on the ground or jack up the axle enough to simulate a full load. Im starting to suspect the noise is the shackles binding up from not being properly tightened.

FYI, here is the carrier bearing kit for the CCLB trucks. http://www.belltech.com/catalog/product/view/id/14085/category/4/ Once the u bolts are tightened the leaf springs shouldnt be able to move. Now if the installer didnt clamp the leaf springs prior to loosening everything, he may have created an issue. I know the front of the leaf springs should not get removed or even touched during a shackle install. Also if your u bolts are coming loose you should replace them with new ones. New ones will prevent the nuts from coming loose. Theres also a video in this thread that shows the reason new u bolts should be used each time you have to u bolt them. Also check to make sure the bolt going through the center of the leaf springs is installed. If they removed it and forgot to replace it, that may cause some issues.

Yea, it makes it adjustable to you can get the right angles on the two piece driveshaft. It'll make it so I can lower the truck more if I want and be able to adjust it without buying another bracket.

Well, like I said previously I'd been having vibration issues since I lowered my crew cab long bed. Today I dropped it off at 4 wheels parts since they deal with these vibration issues. I had tried 2 and 4 degree shims myself and it only moved the vibration to different areas in the speed band. They shimmed the back with 2.5 degree shims and got it closer. They just called to say they finally found a carrier bearing bracket for the truck. Belltech makes it and when they talked to belltech, they said its pretty common for the CCLB truck to need the carrier bearing bracket. So now anyone having this vibration can get it fixed properly. They did have to order the part so it'll be another week or two before they can get my truck back in to install it. Just wanted to give everyone a heads up.

just as stated above, you need to research about driveline angles. Your driveshaft shouldn't be straight and there is no way to tell what degree you angles are without the right instruments. Also you need to be looking at angles at the diff. and trans. If you have a crew cab with a 6.5' bed it's even more complex. my advice is to let someone fix it for you.pretty sure your shackles aren't hitting the bed either, unless some body shims were removed. That would require lots of pointless work from the installer so I'm doubting that. even if the shackles weren't tightened properly they don't flex up and down on the upper portion near the frame.

did you measure the angles or just do a visual? It'll be impossible to get a visual look and judge if your a lined up correctly. A 2 degree difference isn't something you can eyeball but will make vibrations.

A truck being new has nothing to do with driveline angles once you've lowered or raised it.

When you remove the block you have to lower the axle from the leaf springs. The bolt isnt welded. You simple get a socket to fit the nut, then get a pair of channel locks to hold the bolt head and unscrew it. You will have to lower the axle all the way and lift the leaf spring with a jack to get the bolt out because its pretty long. I dont remember having to remove that bolt just for shackles though, unless you are adding shims. In which case my shims came with instructions on how to do this.

you need to have the driveline angles measured and corrected. Throwing shims at it without knowing the size you actually need won't help. If the shop you took it to doesn't know how to fix this take it somewhere else. Last resort go to 4wheelpart and have the check it out. Since they are a commercial business they won't be cheap but they know what to do and do work on lowered trucks.

So after I looked at that pic i went outside to check mine. I didnt remember it narrowing at the filter side. The tube itself in the MIT does a weird twisting things and that angle in post 453 was at that angle to make it look very narrow. Without pulling it off I cant say if it narrows at all but it does appear to very slightly. I'll post a pic when I get time and pull off the tube and measure both ends.

Not a knock on you, that intake looks cool. However I have never seen an intake that is narrow at the filter and widens as it goes to the throttle body. That makes zero sense. The intake tube should have been one size the whole way through. I did just install my MIT and dry flow filter. I didnt notice any butt dyno gains but the truck feels more responsive and has a throaty sound on acceleration. Ive never had a vehicle that was noticeably louder from an intake swap.

Well finished her up earlier, the 2/3 drop is finished. I need to go in for an alignment tomorrow. Shes drives all jacked up with the alignment being so out of whack. I took a bunch of pics and will be doing a DIY for the spindles later tonight. Finished the DIY http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/170314-2014-silverado-mcgaughys-lowering-spindle-install/