afireinside7444

I am having this exact issue. At cruise 40mph was getting small blips of 100 to 200 rpm with minor shuddering. Assumed it was bad fuel (just filled up) or bad plug wire. Then about 2 hours later at a intersection would not move in D or R. After a min i got it to limp into a parking lot. Towed to shop no CEL or anything obvious. After talking to my tuner (Diablew tune) and pointed me to a convertor i called the shop who is now going to drop the pan and look ($175 fee if not.......) after sitting they said its running fine now. But blaming my tune thats been in for over a year

Just got my 4600 front struts in (zero thought to ever level my truck, i think its silly) my rears were installed last fall. Man what a difference from the ranchos. Much less harsh or brittle feeling. Much smoother and a better planted feel on turns ect

Ok thanks yeah i get that hot plastic smell Ok its back and was covered. Im happy someone mentioned the thermostat failure covering the rad. Now I have a 6 month old new condenser, a new rad and thermostat just hope my heater core dosent crap out.....

Ok my truck is in today under Power Train to get fixed

Looks like the dealer and GM agree the failed yet covered (100k PT) thermostat caused the radiator to fail so is now covered. Dropping off tomorrow

It talks about removing the condenser but same idea

no i saw a video. the upper support comes off with a few bolts. no need to remove grill

I beleve the cracked tab was a different TSB?

Great thanks for the info. That is good logic and I called my service manager who ive delt with in my old position as a apparatus supervisor for my FD for our GM ambulances and he seemed to think it may work so he is going to try and submit the thermo caused the rad failure process. If not I think I will just do it myself. $150 rad that Im sure will be better then the garbage GM installs. WIll prob use the updated GM thermo just to be sure to not use a old style its $40ish. It will save me $250 for the adjusted price they are helping me with. ($1000 from the non adjusted price if I just paid cash) Looks easy enough remove top cross member, unclip from Condensor, drain coolant, remove shroud bolts and hoses remove trans linesx4 and lift out. 2 or 3 hours goofing around

To the wife the money is alot lol. she is very mad that a new truck is having these issues. Me its more i hate paying for labor/depending on others/glutton for punishment/wanting it done right not by stealership hacks. The same dealership broke my seat pad clips that I found out when I installed my Katskins last week soooooo. But it is attractive to have them do it and not worry about it. And if i can confirm that the AC dosent need to be meesed with i.e. unclipped from rad ill do that.

ok so went to the dealer they contacted GM. They will let me pay $450 for a new Rad and thermostat installed 1 year warranty on my 2015. I can get a Stant thermo for $15 or gates for $100 (not sure why the huge price difference) and a Sperctrum Premium cooling depot Rad shipped for $150 (all rock auto prices) My experence is after martket is better then OEM (or else I wouldent have a leaking rad a 2.5 years and 45k. Is the install that bad? I read that the AC condensor will not have to be removed just unclipped is this true? Should be pretty strait foward I fix all car issues. So $165 for Stant/Spectrum parts. $250 Gates/Spectrum. Or $450 GM replaces. What say ye?

So looks like i have this issue 2015 45k miles. Is their a mileage extension? Im not to sure on the wording. Or is the extension on 2014 only?

I wanted roadwire but couldent find them cheap anymore (used to be $550 on ebay all day but then disappeared ) so i got katskinz. Ok did install yesterday and boy are my hands and sholders sore! Clips in seats suck easy to break and dont seem to hold great afterwards i need to unzip the drvers seat back and re clip it up mine let go carrying the seat back to my truck. Wish they used the Velcro from the rears everywhere. Yes i need a heat gun on them stat mostly the rears. I dont think Michigan weather will allow self shrinkage. But overall happy i saved $1000 to 1500 on labor

Great thanks so im not as blind!

Where can i find a video google came up w nada. Seats were ordered today no jump seat

ok thanks i have a center console so saves alot of time not having to do the jump seat. Thanks

Are you able to leave the seats in the truck?

Licky i got mine at a junk yard for $140 shipped

Your all making me parinoid now...... im 42k 2.5 years old and pretty darn cold here in Michigan currently. Ive had good luck with Walmart (satan mart) battries. Used them in about 8 cars. My momd died at about 2 years and they warrantied it. Its now about 4 years old at this point. They are made by a large battery manufacturer cant remember who now.

Read back a bit. I remember a few people have. I was lucky to hear about this at 35k and got it replaced

Ok due to the above pic we may be on to something here. That brown USB female behind the radio should be able to be used for the new console USBs. If i remeber correctly their is a cable inside the jumpseat wire harness i cut out that may be able to work. I have to check when i get home from work. Worst case you can order a brown male ended usb and retain the glove box usb also

Is that the back of the radio? Or behind the trim ring? How do you get the trim off?

My truck was in today. Its a new design GM not aftermarket

Called again it is the new GM redesigned condeneser.

Ok so i was called yestetday take it in Thursday only about a 5 day wait and a condenser came in.