rpoffen
-
Posts
65 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Articles
RPO
Store
Blogs
Everything posted by rpoffen
-
All CC's are assembled in Mexico. If the VIN starts with '3', it is assembled in Mexico.
-
From your profile you have a 2016. In most states, note that to start a Lemon Law case you have to be the original purchaser, and you have to do it in the first year. Yours may be too late to file.
-
It's your vehicle, you can do whatever you want to it. They may decide to deny a warranty claim for a failure if an aftermarket part can be shown to have caused the failure. Now, if you replace the driveshaft, and your stereo conks out, they would have a hard time proving that the driveshaft caused the stereo to die. This is part of the Magnuson-Moss warranty act. However, they might be able to prove that an aftermarket driveshaft caused transmission output shaft seal failure for example. It's up to you if you want to go the aftermarket route.
-
My understanding is that the crew cabs ALL come from Mexico.
-
Then I would have the rear end gears checked out. Some early posters to this thread had some success after having it rebuilt. Some claimed that they were assembled incorrectly with backlash and preload set wrong.
-
How did you achieve lower gear higher RPM? If you did this by putting the tranny in manual mode, then note that M5 gear disables AFM, so perhaps you are getting a vibration due to AFM? Also, if this is by accelerating, then this will change the torque on the gears, particularly the rear end, so there could be a gear preload issue (this has been speculated back a ways in the 800+ posts). Accelerating may also cause the axle to wrap up some and change the pinion angle, which is another possible cause that has been speculated before.
-
I have been following this thread for a long time, and from what I remember (you can always go back through all previous 828 pages :-), the problem has been reported pretty much on any and all configurations, all the way from WT up to LTZ to Sierra Denali's. Regular, double and crew cab, 2WD and 4WD, steel wheels and aluminum, low profile tires (20+") and standard profile (17-18"), different trims (high country, etc) No real rhyme or reason. Lots of different fix attempts, some things have helped for certain people, some not. What works for some doesn't work for others. Good luck!
-
You can put the trans in manual mode, gear 5, and it will not go into AFM. Your RPM's will be higher so your mileage will suffer, but if you just want to see if AFM is the culprit, this is a way without a programmer.
-
Most people have the vibration at 70-80MPH, so something is different from the older models with frame beaming.
-
I believe, somewhere in the past 712 pages of posts, that someone tried this (at least the front shaft) and it did not fix his problem. This doesn't surprise me since both 2WD and 4WD trucks appear to have the problem. Now, 07SoftTail claims he fixed his by having his rear drive shaft trued and balanced, but others have also checked their driveshaft and it was fine. There was also (again a few pages back) talk that the rear axle flanges were badly machined and you could clearly see that they had a bulge on one side. If you go back through all the pages, you will find that these and many more things were already tried. Some helped for a few people but not others. It seems there is not necessarily one specific problem that you can pinpoint for all trucks.
-
This is torquing 101. You never torque each bolt/nut one at a time to the final torque value. You start with one, thread it on finger tight. Then go to the next and do the same thing. When all are then finger tight, you start torquing them down a little at a time. You do each bolt/nut a little at a time before going to the next one. You go from each bolt/nut to the next in a specific pattern. For wheels, you go across to the opposite bolt/nut to get even torquing. Make 3 or 4 passes around using this pattern, tightening more each pass. On the final pass you torque to the manufacturers specification. On some things, like cylinder heads, there is a specific pattern that the manufacturer specifies, you can usually find this online.
-
Which, of course, is ridiculous because there have been plenty of class action lawsuits for silly things that didn't kill anyone like extra fees being charged on cell phone bills or improper medical insurance billing. I figure it again is just not widespread enough for there to be any money in it. A lawyer won't take a case if there isn't enough money.
-
No, the driveshaft is always spinning if the car is moving.
-
The 45-55, especially on deceleration sounds to me like the setup of the rear gears is incorrect.
-
631 pages of the same or similar experiences
-
Yeah, the dealer charge per hour is probably $115/hr, but they might pay the tech $20/hr and pocket the rest!
-
Another thing to do is to use an indelible marker to mark the sidewall on each tire where the valve stem is. In previous posts (somewhere back in the 629 pages), some posters had noted that the tire was slipping on the rim. If it does, then the RF balance is no good any longer. This way, if you start to get the vibes back, you can easily see if the tire has moved.
-
Except he noted that the drivers side has play and the passenger side does not, which makes no sense unless he is talking about the shafts to the front wheels, in which case they would be the CV shafts not the driveshaft, and they would unbolt as a single integrated unit. Note the driveshaft hanging down behind the diff in the right side of the picture.
-
I got the impression this was the FRONT differential, so he should not be dealing with U-Joints. Also, if it is the front, then if a loose bearing is the cause of his problem, it isn't the fix for everyone because it would not explain the 2WD trucks that have the vibration.
-
When they road force balance the tire, they are actually measuring the high and low spots during rotation which can be caused by both tire and rim. What they do to try and correct it is rotate the tire on the rim to even out the highs and lows. If this can't be done to within spec, then they use a different tire. Some have found that after this, they have noticed the tires slip on the rim over time and don't stay in the same place. The best thing to do is to mark the tire with paint or similar indelible method at the point where the valve stem is. If the tire slips on the rim, you will see right away. This means your RFB is no longer good and needs to be done again, or better yet, ask why the tire is slipping on the rim.
-
So now that you are on your way to a buyback, you have lost interest in trying to pursue it. I understand that you just want a truck without problems. Another avenue besides class action or recall since it isn't safety related enough apparently to get attention might be a Magnuson-Moss claim since the truck doesn't behave as it is supposed to. It just sounds like everyone is giving up and unwilling to try other sources of help.
-
OK so everyone on this list should just stop searching for a solution or answers, hang their heads in disgust and take what GM is saying. This type of attitude of not exploring all avenues is exactly what GM is hoping for, that everyone eventually just goes away. So far, for most people, their efforts of working strictly with GM has not gone anywhere, so why not try a different approach?
-
I have mentioned this before, but as far as I know, nobody has followed up on it, so maybe it is time to mention it again. There is a radio show out of Denver Colorado, called the Tom Martino Troubleshooter show. Tom is a consumer advocate that loves to hear about things like this. In fact, on Fridays his show is more focused on car problems. One of his experts that he frequently has on these shows is the owner of a Chevy dealer in Denver. He also has a couple other automotive experts. The radio station is KHOW 630 AM. You can listen to his podcasts of past shows by going to the www.khow.com. If someone anywhere in the greater Denver area (or maybe in any of the surrounding states) with this problem can contact him (email "[email protected]") or 303-627-8466 and explain their story, as well as all the issues and forum posts, you might be able to get greater visibility. I would, but I am in California, and don't have the problem.
-
The only thing we know for sure, is that some number of people have this problem, just how extensive it is, we may never know. Unless GM acknowledges the issue, finds the cause, and analyzes the percentage of affected trucks (assuming this can be done based on the root cause of the problem), we will likely never know. I am not saying there isn't a problem, but how far it goes is anyone's guess.
-
Well, Mcarlo24 said he ASKED 30+ owners and no one said they have vibrations, so right or wrong, his data has nothing to do with this forum.
-
Forum Statistics
250.3k
Total Topics2.7m
Total Posts -
Member Statistics
342,700
Total Members8,960
Most Online
-
Who's Online 10 Members, 1 Anonymous, 910 Guests (See full list)