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cubangt

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  • Location
    Houston, Tx
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2017 Silverado Crew Cab LT 5.3 Z71 4x4 All Star Edition

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  1. So a little update on this issue.. I took a look at all suspension components and checked all bolts and nuts and nothing was loose or showed any signs of protentional issues. I had to take the truck in for a few other warranty items, so i added the noise to the list of things they needed to check. The next day i got a call back from the dealer stating that they wouldn't and couldn't touch the suspension since it had been lifted and that was not covered, BUT that they did find some loose parts. So told them don't touch it, ill take it back to where i got it done to take a look. ( i did the install back in 2018 when i got the truck ) so not sure what they found or were talking about because before taking it to them, i had checked all suspension parts and made sure everything was torqued to spec. Once i picked up the truck i noticed that the noise was no longer there and hasn't happened since that day and its been few months now.. could they have actually found something and torqued it down and not charged me for the work or even acknowledged they touched it? Few weeks ago i had my door lock stop working on the back door and battery issues, so this time i took it to another mechanic(not a dealership) and asked that while they had it, to check it out again just to see if they found anything because that one front tire was wearing out on the outside of the tire. The had the truck for a few days and was told that they didn't find anything either, had the alignment checked and said that the alignment camber was barely out of spec, but couldn't for sure say if that caused the wearing on the tire since it was so minor, but as for the popping, they couldn't find any issues with the suspension. So I'm at a loss on what the pop was and why its not there after the dealership, which states they didn't touch anything.
  2. So i decided to go get a quote for custom box, 2 subs, amp and install at CarToys here in houston and was shocked by the cost..$3200. The installer was talking about tapping into the rear door speakers for the signal for the new amp. And everything i have read and found is stating thats not the way to do it.. I have always installed my own systems with the exception of one car back in the day, but still not sure what the big deal is about having the Bose system and adding subs to the truck. I was watching some videos this weekend after getting that wild quote and found that there is a harness that you can get that goes in line where the factory harness connects to the amp, allowing all the factory sound to be controlled as is, but then giving you the wiring(ahead of the amp) to run the signal to the new amp and subs without issues or tampering with the factory setup. The site that i found in most of the videos was this place: https://lljcustoms.com/collections/chevy-gmc-cadillac The price is reasonable enough to make things plug and play and not cut any wires. Something else i noticed in a few of the videos was that the boxes were being made out of 3/4" to 1" plywood instead of MDF. Have things changed on box building? Ive always made my boxes out of 3/4" MDF and never had issues.. And has anyone replaced the door speakers with some aftermarket JL Audio speakers or other brands?
  3. And that connection is the one under the console that connects to the amp correct? Now that the weather is getting cooler, i may finally take a look in the truck at what is envolved and what im willing to do myself. I appreciate the picture and the info on how you did it..
  4. So sounds like you made the sound wire connections in front of the factory amp correct? did i read that part right? What size subs did you go with and im assuming under the backseat is where you placed them? I looked at the low profile 10's that kicker makes, i was hoping to have reused my MTX 10's i loved those in my other cars, but i had room to run those.. I just want to have some good bass in the truck again and dont want to loose any functionality if certain things need to be replaced.
  5. So I've been reading here and other forums on this topic and still little confused.. So the truck has the Bose stereo with Nav system. So I'm somewhat satisfied with the sound quality, but its lacking that thump, In my past trucks i always had my subs installed and never any problems, but all those trucks and SUV's had the standard stereos, so there was nothing to consider or work around. This truck though seems is more involved in that in order to add some subs, you need to make sure that the amp is wired before the factory amp using certain wiring harness. So my first question is, has anyone replaced the door speakers with other ones that may be better? Was it worth it? If i did replace them, i would also be doing some sound deadener like dynamat or something similar. In my other trucks, i upgraded the factory speakers with better ones and that alone made a huge improvement. Second question, does anyone have or know where i can find the specs for the door speakers? And do all Bose systems have a factory amp?
  6. So last weekend, i was able to take care of the bezel, Not sure how it happened because the truck is not abused or taken offroad often, but was finally able to remove it from the light and found that 1 tab was broken and the factory double sided tape was all dried up and full of dirt, so it must have come loose for sometime before i even noticed. Removed all the old tape from the light and bezel, cleaned everything and applied new tape in the original locations and reinstalled and now firm and secure.
  7. Just a follow up, i can confirm that the above items from Mouser are identical parts to the kit i originally ordered from the other site.
  8. Even though i already fixed and resolved my issue with the part i order, i was determined to find it elsewhere and here it is.. I just ordered 6 housing/connectors and 12 terminals and total was only $21 shipped 2 day which is a better deal than just one from the other, but again, just posting for anyone that is looking for this connector. Housing https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-34062-0038 Terminals https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-34083-2002-LP Shipping is $7.99 so if you only need one, still little cheaper than the one below. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_155/products_id/4180?osCsid=8iq5cor5025non45hvndlseev4 (this one is $7.99 for the kit, plus min around $5 for shipping, at least for my address) So for one kit and shipping you are paying around $13 +/- Figured i would post this update for anyone needing these connectors, 0340620038_CRIMP_HOUSINGS-701604.pdf
  9. Not sure it helps with your ask, but im running a 6.5" lift from Zone on my 2017 Z71 and the biggest i could go is 35's on my stock rims, with a 1/4" spacer.
  10. what spring fix are you referring to? Is it the leaf spring clamps? I never installed any after the lift and i did do the "add a leaf" then. But worth a try.. the odd thing is that after the dealership said they wouldnt work on it, the noise has gone away, so im still going to check all torque and look into the rear spring clamps..(if thats what you refer to)
  11. Interesting, dont need a new one, just needed to find out how to fix/correct my issue. So it seems that the factory does use double-sided tape for it.. so just need to find the time and find my tape. thanks..
  12. thought i had clicked on the correct forum when posting, no matter, new post has been created in the correct section:
  13. Last week while taking a look at what i was going to do about my ABS wiring that was cut by how i ran it after the lift, i notice that the passenger side headlight bezel was pulled away from the light a bit, upon looking it over i notice that it was pulled out of the little corner clip, but even after applying a good amount of force, it didnt really "click" back into place, but that top portion felt ok, but the middle portion of it doesnt seem to have any visible clips and applying force all around the piece, didnt seem to help. I went to the drivers side and it is secure and feels solid as if its part of the headlight itself, I was looking and found plenty of videos and posts about similar issues, but in most, not all cases, there was mention of double sided tape to adhere it in place, but those were for replacements and aftermarket ones.. yet i couldnt really find a post about the factory ones. Are they also held in place by the top and bottom clips along with some doublesided tape in the middle? I'd prefer to fix it like it came from the factory, so just need to know if its really using the tape from the factory. Originally posted here in the wrong forum: original post
  14. Last week while taking a look at what i was going to do about my ABS wiring that was cut by how i ran it after the lift, i notice that the passenger side headlight bezel was pulled away from the light a bit, upon looking it over i notice that it was pulled out of the little corner clip, but even after applying a good amount of force, it didnt really "click" back into place, but that top portion felt ok, but the middle portion of it doesnt seem to have any visible clips and applying force all around the piece, didnt seem to help. I went to the drivers side and it is secure and feels solid as if its part of the headlight itself, I was looking and found plenty of videos and posts about similar issues, but in most, not all cases, there was mention of double sided tape to adhere it in place, but those were for replacements and aftermarket ones.. yet i couldnt really find a post about the factory ones. Are they also held in place by the top and bottom clips along with some doublesided tape in the middle? I'd prefer to fix it like it came from the factory, so just need to know if its really using the tape from the factory.
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