SouthPawCO

For anyone that is curious is my above post works, it does 100%. This now allows my HID's to run 100% perfect with no issues with the 9v DRL. It also deleted the standard headlight DRL and now my park lights are my DRL. I would suggest this anyone that is either wanting to get rid of the DRL headlights or run HID/LED's without have to buy/use the relay kit. Now its plug and play.

Ok, after digging through this thread, I quoted all the relative information. Has anyone tried this on a 2016 Silverado 2500HD with success? I am wanting to run either LED's or HID's but the DRL function obviously kills this idea. I also despise the DRL feature and would love to have it disabled. Would you be able to just un-pin the DRL supply voltage wire completely out of the plug and not have to worry about swapping it? If you skip to 3:17, you will see the plug this is referring to:

If the laws of gravity would allow it, I would have done a black flip. Drove it quite a bit yesterday and today with no security light! I couldn't be happier.

VOILA! Problem found, fixed and on it's way! Long story short, One of the yellow wires coming off the passlock sensor, through the steering column, to the bcm, had been cut. I couldn't see it had been cut because they tucked it in the with the rest of the harness. After following those, I found where they had put in two resistors to bypass the passlock system. After opening up the electrical tape, there it was, two resistors with one of the ends snapped off. I took all of it out, soldered in a new piece and sealed it up. Started right up and no security lights! Hard to see but the broken yellow wire: Broken resistor inside the electrical tape: The poor solder job. It was really tight in there trying to hold those damn wires: The culprit:

Well that didn't work... lol. I leave the key in the position on till the security light turns off but it turned back on on my way to work. Truck started and ran fine but back to the drawing board. I didn't realize the damn steering wheel had to come off to replace that housing w/ sensor so I may look into the resistor fix.

I keep posting this in hopes that someone down the road may be able to use this information because I love forums like these. They provide so much information and can be very helpful. I can't count how many times I have used them as a 'forum mechanic' that shops hate but I direct them to a lot info that they may over look. Here is some more information. We have a Snap-On Solus at work so I hooked it up to check codes in the BCM. None were currently present but it had two history codes: B2948 - Security System Sensor Power Circuit High B2960 - Security System Date incorrect But Valid Now you may ask WTF do those mean? I found this with my google fu http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/passlock-fixes/ http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/gm-passlock-trouble-codes/ I cleared the codes and began more research. This lead me to this site: https://www.dewitzdiagnosticsolutions.com/gms-theft-code-b2960-key-code-incorrect-but-valid/. From here, I gather that I have not been delaying starting the truck or waiting for the security light to go off. I hop in, I put the key in and crank. Being an old girl like herself, I don't think I am giving it enough time to see what key is in the cylinder and if it's ok to start. I believe the PCM is seeing that the key turns the tumbler but did not have a chance to see if the OHM is satisfying it. If not, I will try replacing the lock cylinder and after that, the passlock sensor.

Well here is some fun new info... As previously stated, the security light turned on this morning on my way to the gym and on my way to work. I never shut the truck off till I got to work because I was afraid it wasn't going to start. I got to work, shut it down and it restarted no problems multiple times. My buddy was here so I talked with him some more and he said he had an aftermarket remote start put in years ago but took it out after it out after it wasn't working correctly. So I took apart the steering column covers to reveal the passlock wires. I disonnected the passlock plug right at the sensor and tried to start it thinking it would not..... to my surprise it not only started but I took it for a 10 miles test drive and no security light was on. I got back to my shop, turned it off and start cycling the key. This time, the light turned on with the plug disconnected but it still started. I played around with it and found out when the plug is connected, it would start and the light was off. With the plug disconnected, the light was on but would still start. This now leads me to believe that there is a passlock module bypass somewhere and that may be the issue. I am going to try to find it today on my lunch break but I called Car Toys and they said they could remove the alarm for about $90 and return it to OEM. I think that would be my best bet at this point to rule out any additional issues.

Well I called the dealer this morning to get the key ordered and he suggested that a new key probably wasn't the issue. I was thinking last night at 217K, the original key my buddy had been using probably wore it self into the ignition lock cylinder over time. That is why the spares are having a hard time turning because they are 'new' and sharp. He suggested that I replace P/N 88965342 - IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING W/PASSLOCK SENSOR. With my discount at work its $87.65 which is cheaper than NAPA has it and it's OEM. I think I am going to try it today and pray for the best. I hate gambling with $88 but the light turned on this morning on my way to the gym and on my way to work. I feared if I turned it off, it wasn't going to start. One thing to add, I noticed it appears to have an aftermarket alarm that is missing the brain box. I called my buddy and he said years ago he had it installed but it was giving him issues so he took out the brain module. He said he never had an issue with it not starting but now I am wondering if it has bypass module in it.

I was leaning towards the key/ignition tumbler myself so it helps to have more opinions on it. The original key got stolen a couple of months ago when buddy went to warm it up one cold morning and a stand up citizen took the opportunity to hitch a ride in it. He dumped the truck about three blocks from his house but took the original keys. I spoke to my buddy today and he said he has never had an issue with it before so that was my guess is that the spares were of suspicion. The only thing that steered me away from blaming the key is that even though I had to jiggle it, it would eventually turn over and let me start it. I will order a new key tomorrow through the dealership by vin. If not, I will try the ignition switch cylinder and hope for the best. I love this truck and my buddy has owned since it had 81K. It still runs great, plenty of power but its forcing me to believe it is not reliable because it has left me 'stranded' three times now in the last month. It did it this morning but I did the relearn procedure and it fired right up after the first ten minutes. Thankfully I had no where to be but the last two times made me late for work and left my girlfriend and I in a parking lot for 20 minutes. In case anyone searches and is wondering what the relearn procedure is, this is what I do and it has worked every time so far: -Attempt to start truck - PASSLOCK symbol on IPC will start flashing and truck will not start -Roll off the key but leave it on the "ON" position -Passlock will now either be flashing or solid -Set timer on your phone for 10 minutes and either sit in there and wait or come back before it goes off -After 10 minutes (pretty much on the dot) the PASSLOCK light will now be off -Now turn key all the back to the off position for 3-5 seconds -Attempt to start the truck - Sometimes it starts on the first try -If no start, proceed to do it all over again up to three times.

I recently bought a 2005 Silverado from a co worker and it’s making me pull my hair out. It’s a 2005 1500 with 217k on the clock and the security light has been coming on. Sometimes it comes on when driving and at the worst, it will turn on/flash when I go to start it, forcing me to do the relearn procedure (try to start, leave key on position, wait 10 min x 3). It has done three times in the last three weeks and it’s driving me crazy. I called the dealership and they confirmed that it is NOT a chipped key by VIN. The original set of keys had been stolen so I have been using the spares he provided me and sometimes I have to jiggle them in the ignition for it to turn over. I have been researching it non stop but cannot find a definite fix. Some say you can solder in a resistor by cutting the passlock wires and measuring it with an ohm meter and that should take care of it but I’d rather fix it the ‘right’ way. From my research it looks like the passlock sensor is on the ignition housing and it picks up the signal once it is turned all the way to the start position. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Do I need a new part (ignition switch, tumbler, key, housing etc) or do I look further into the resistor fix?

Is your truck 2WD? I am wondering because I have a similar setup (20x10 -24 fuel nutz w/ 305/55 mud terrains) and I barely rubbed in reverse before I did any trimming. After I trimmed the plastic and zip tied the fender liners back, no rubbing at all. Regardless, that combo looks awesome on black. I almost went with the same wheels but a friend of mine got them on her dodge so I picked something else.

If you go through my build thread found in my signature, page 4 shows how to wire in the solenoid for the FXR's. You should be able to do that with all the lights on during high beam.

The FXR will not fit in those headlights as far as I know. I think you might get away with an h1 mini. Does anyone know if you can adjust the high beams/shutter on the FXR's? My seem to throw extremely high and the passenger is off to the left?

I've always loved side dump exhausts and almost did that with mine. I ended with dual rears but that looks like a really clean setup.

Well I have the factory LTZ headlights and bolted in the FXR's but I have always been curious if the replicas would accept the FXR's like the OEM's do. I've thought about getting some replicas and really doing some customization to them but didn't know how far I wanted to dive into it.

Will they not fit the FXR?

Thank you! I get compliments on it all the time. My favorite part is it just looks "right." Its black but its not at the same time. I'm really happy the way it looks.

Well the kit fastheadlights sends is a mopar kit. I will try what wantosee has done and hopefully that takes care of my problem.

I have the morimoto kit. I thought the OEM plug went to the cap but the plugs do not match. Plus the cap has a separate ground wire coming off of it. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/capacitor-link.html

If I have it plugged that way, where do you ground it? Are you saying it has to sit inside the headlight housing?

I will try that tonight after work. That does make sense to have it between the relay and ballast since the ballast is getting power from the relays. Hopefully it fixes it. I have the morimoto kit on my Silverado. I believe I have it between the OEM input and ballast but I will double check tonight or tomorrow.

I am kind of having a similar issue with my kit. I will double check to see how I have it wired but I have the cap right before the ballast and the 12v works fine but the DRL mode flickers and cuts in and out. I have to turn them off during the day and the relays are buzzing. Any idea on what that might be? I will take pictures of how I have it wired tonight.

Yes that is what they posted and I'm still in contact with them because it still has fitament issues.

It's supposed to correct that issue but I'm still having issues if that makes sense.

A standard HID kit will give you no problems getting the dust caps back on. You will be drilling a hole through it in order to feed the wires through to the ballast. The only reason I suggested the morimoto kit is because I had nothing but troubles with my Kensun kit from Amazon. Since I installed the Mori kit, it has been 100% reliable with no issues. I did do the FXR swap and for the most part, it was 'bolt on.' I am currently having issues on just one side and I cannot figure out what it is. This side was a problem since day one and if you see my build thread, you will see why. The FXR on this side seems to stick out more than the other side so it is causing fitament issues with the dust cap. I picked up a couple of spares but I am going to still have to do some sort of shaping/fitting to make it work. My next attempt is going to be a heat gun and reshape them. They do provide a different style of bulb (D2S) which is a lot smaller than their previous bulbs. The bulb is straight, not L shaped. Even with the new style of bulbs, I am still having troubles with my dust caps. The factory dust caps fit EXTREMELY tight even with the holes drilled. I think if you drilled the hole perfectly center to the bulb, it is still going to stick out. I have asked fastheadlights if they have actually used the new bulb since the change and have yet to hear back from them. I think the only way to do it 'correctly' would to buy the extended dust caps (http://www.shapeways.com/product/VM2A8WEEU/one-extended-silverado-headlight-cap) and save yourself the headache. I just have to figure out a way to justify a $100 a cap which I think is outrageous.