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CadillacLuke24 last won the day on November 22 2021

CadillacLuke24 had the most liked content!

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About CadillacLuke24

  • Birthday 01/16/1991

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    Forever West
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  • Drives
    Clyde-15 Silverado --- Alexandra-96 Sedan DeVille

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  1. For what it's worth, the GM Helm Factory Service Manual recommends whenever injectors are removed they should be rebuilt. Glad I'm going the route I did. Managed to source both intermediate pipes despite catastrophic supply. Gaskets are here and ready to go, and once I pull the fuel rails injectors will be sourced. SO glad I kept my brother's 97 Camaro. Just a V6, but it has T Tops, leather, and the alloys that were stock back then. Just over 101k, but it runs like a top and it's in great shape. It's my work car, but he's earned his keep this month.
  2. Plan is all 8 injectors, intermediate pipe #1 and 2, and manifold and TB gaskets. Got crows foot wrenches, torque wrenches, and flare nut wrenches for days! Hopefully I can find intermediate pipe #1 soon....everywhere shows discontinued.
  3. See watching the first bit you tagged is exactly what Clyde is showing. Hard starts, seems like he's flooded out, last night there was a nice fog coming from the exhaust when he first fired off, and the garage had a distinct odor of unburned fuel. I think Cylinder 2 injector is stuck open. Changed the oil once already during this, should do that again once I replace the injectors. Got tools to remove the fuel rails coming, will get the intake off and see if I can read part numbers on injectors. Can they rebuild injectors cost effectively? If so it would be worthwhile to rebuild the set and keep them for spares.
  4. 2015 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ Z71 L86 6.2L V8. 252,062 miles. Coming home last week the SES light tripped, and it was flashing. Engine was running rough. Pull over, I happened to have a code reader on hand. P0106 (MAP sensor) and P0302 (Cylinder 2 misfire). I was able to limp home. Ran rough between 1000 and 2000, clear 2000 and it would smooth out considerably. Stopping was a questionable decision as there was a high chance of stalling. Stopping, shutting off the truck, and attempting to restart would result in a hard or no start condition. Once home I pulled a P0106, P0302, and P015C (Bank 2 Rich to Lean - O2 Sensor delayed response). Hard starts that get increasingly difficult the longer the truck is running. I changed the MAP sensor with marginal improvement in performance. I suspected spark may be an issue, so I pulled the plugs. They were carbon coated, though throttle body cleaner and a wire brush made it disappear. I changed the plugs and wires. That helped more but did not resolve the underlying issue. Hoping the issue was still relatively simple, I replaced the Ignition Coils. That helped substantially more, to where I think the truck could be drivable, though there still is an issue present. The first time I restarted after coil replacement, idle was rough and I got the same trio of codes that I did before replacing parts. I cleared them, let the truck sit for a second, and then started again. Starting was somewhat easier (though still had to turn over for about 10 seconds before it caught) and idle was somewhat smoother though still uneven. This time I got a P0300 (random multiple misfire) as opposed to Cylinder 2. The P0106 and P015C persisted. I know I'm kinda breaking the first rule of diagnostics by throwing parts at it, but at a quarter million miles it can't hurt. Though I'm not particularly excited about this prospect, I think the fuel injectors are suspect. I am aware of others' issues with injectors and have seen threads on this forum and videos chronicling the replacement of said injectors. Should I replace my injectors? Thank you for your time.
  5. With the Northstar V8 (yes I know the can of worms we could open with this. I love the Northstar but am well aware of its flaws), it was known to consume oil and or stick the rings from plodding around town One recommended 'cleaning' procedure for the engine was the WOT procedure. Ideally, with a 4spd trans, stick it in second, spool it up to damn near redline, and coast down from there. The concept is the engine braking was creating a vacuum, and that would forcibly remove carbon from the combustion chambers and the cylinder rings, properly seating the rings and allowing them to function as intended. Several members on the Cadillac forums noted it helped oil consumption, I noticed my DeVille runs better after, it works well with the Camaro, and it works well with the Silverado. Of note, engine braking down Casper mountain for several minutes at a time at a sustained 4000 RPM also does the trick. May not be your cup of tea, but a possible remedy to your current malady.
  6. The original 192 Trans thermostat on my 8L90E did no favors to the internal electronics, so I did the pill flip. It worked very well, in colder temps (less than 30F) the trans wouldn't get past 120. Maybe a slight fuel economy drop, but nothing major if longevity was the payoff. When I saw the 6L90E thermostat I figured it was time for experimentation. The guts for the 6L90E and the 8L90E are the same size, so I just swapped internals across. Very happy with the results, trans warms up to 145 and tends to hang there unless I'm in town, at that point the warmest I've seen is 163. The nice thing is the cooler is 'stepped', so that when you reach the mid 140s it opens a little bit, and it will open a little bit more as it warms, until it hits 158 where it's full open. At least it seems like that, cause the temp increase noticeably slows when it reaches the 140s. Possibly a slight fuel economy increase, if the weather cooperates I could tell better. Shifting is more responsive for sure (think quicker, not harsher) and as a result more fun to drive. I think GM should promote this on the 8L90E too.
  7. Cassette Tapes What do suicide bombers and real estate agents share an interest in? Location location location
  8. Drove to the gas station and back yesterday. End of the month...cheap gas galore.
  9. Funny you mention that, that is exactly what I did. Trans temp is consistently 130s-150s now. All the time.
  10. Not to be a kiss butt sap, but Thank you guys so very much. This forum is a goldmine of information. From Transmission thermostat deletes to suspension overhaul to what kind of differential oil and many other topics, I can count on GM-Trucks.com and you fine folks to have 14 different ways to do things and valid and helpful thoughts on topics as well. I like to think I'm a decent DIY guy but I could not do it without you guys. Any given day I can log on and I learn new stuff, like the upgraded trans thermostat, or new TSBs for fluid specifications, or tips and tricks to make life just a little easier. It's great to know such a great resource is just a click away, and it's because of the cool dudes (and some dudettes) that frequent this site. New project coming up? Check GM-Trucks. What's the scoop on a common K2 problem? GM-Trucks. What's the best way to tackle a tricky part replacement? GM-Trucks. After the good experience I have had with my Cadillac forums, I started looking for one when I first got Clyde. I'm so glad I found this site. Thank you guys.
  11. Food for thought Some members have observed that the pill flip may lead to unusually cool temperatures for us folk in the butt numbing belt of the country I'm out of Casper, WY. Last week on my way to Cheyenne (YAY Lowe's and Craftsman), the outside temp was 17 degrees Fahrenheit. Posted transmission fluid temperature as I barreled down I-25 at 80? 90 degrees The pill flip works! And HOW hahahaha I like Grumpy's train of thought. I think I will get a new 6spd thermostat and swap the guts with my factory trans thermostat I have as a spare. When I did the pill flip I got a new thermostat. I'm not sure why. I could do a little thermodynamic research and see if they changed the 8spd thermostat too. There's a new part number, though it's close to the old 6spd thermostat, so I doubt it.
  12. I know this is late to the game, but I'm happy to provide some confirmation bias for you After my 275 55R20 Goodyear SRAs became drag slicks at 35k I put Michelin Defender LTXs on in the same size. Great tire, great traction, great treadwear, no noise, they handle hooligan driving well (think leadfoot launches and taking corners a little hot hahaha). I believe all Defenders are rated to 70k, I got 81k out of my first set with religious rotation and relatively close tire monitoring. I had a bad habit of running the pressures a tad high so the centers were at 1 or 2/32nds when I replaced them. My second set I got 67k out of them. Again, had a bad habit of running the pressures a tick high so the centers were wearing faster. The second set I replaced a bit earlier, i think at about 3/32nds just cause I had the tires on hand and I had a fairly long trip coming up (went from Casper WY to Las Vegas 7/4 to 7/9/21). Third set I'm rotating every 5k miles like I always do and am monitoring tire pressures much closer. Happy to report after 15k miles they are down to 11/32nds (from 12 new) and are even across the board. Michelin makes the best tires money can buy. Dad has run them on his Suburban, Escalade ESV, DeVille, first DTS, and his current DTS. They ride great, handle great, are quiet, and do great in inclement weather. I've run them on my DeVille and my Silverado and have equally high praise. Tried Goodyears once on my DeVille and they just are not as good of a tire. Same experience with my Silverado. The stock SRA Wranglers were ok but performance plummeted after 35k. Dad had Goodyears as OEM tires on his Escalade and had a tread separation at about 50K. Yours may be different cause of the different size but I think you will be very happy. Excellent choice!
  13. I don't think so. You could take a 10 mm wrench and release the tension at the cable equalizer, about halfway down the cab.
  14. Almost forgot one...AC Condenser was replaced along with the radiator due to a catastrophic leak I believe was from the top driver's side of the condenser. This is a known issue with early K2s. Chevy redesigned the condenser and added a plastic shield in front of the trouble area. So far it has worked. After the recharge the AC works better than ever and the transmission cooler functions perfectly too (the trans cooler occupies the lower half of the AC condenser in my Silverado). For what it's worth Mahle built my current condenser. When I replaced the radiator I replaced the hoses and the thermostat, as the old thermostat would open too quickly, putting excessive pressure on the radiator side tanks. New one works perfectly. I briefly replaced the Silverado spec thermostat with a Corvette/Camaro SS thermostat seeking performance improvements. Cooling didn't noticeably change, fuel economy actually dropped slightly, and the interior temperature seemed to run higher with the settings on outside air intake (as opposed to recirculation). Returning to the Silverado thermostat restored proper operation. The dash and interior lights began to literally strobe at night, to the point it was very distracting. Remembering something I read on the Cadillac forums I frequent, I immediately suspected the Alternator. I replaced that and the belt drive components at 181k. Problem vanished. Battery was replaced at 131k initially, going from an ACDelco factory unit to an AutoCraft AGM unit. The ACDelco Battery was replaced because, after sitting in my truck for 15 minutes messing with the seat adjustment, he failed to start later that day. Prior to that, leaving the truck on with the engine off would trigger a BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE alert after only 10 minutes, whereas before he would go like a half hour or more While in Las Vegas in early July, at about 207k, I got a BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE message upon starting him after sitting for a couple hours. Pulling into a parking lot he stalled, but restarted immediately. I did read later that there was a TSB issued for the geographical area (SW US) that vapor lock is possible in hot temps (external temps were 110s), but that was enough to spook me. AutoCraft AGM battery was replaced at 209k with a Diehard AGM battery.
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