awright2009

Thanks for the suggestions, went ahead and ordered up some morimoto 2Stroke 2.0‘s from amazon, they look smaller and improved design wise from the Opt7’s. Seems they came out in 2018, here to hope that they outlast the warranty and if not that the company is still around when they do. $129.90 after tax for me, other ones were a bit more expensive (but that lifetime warranty seems tempting)

So I've always used Opt7 Fluxebeam H11 headlights for my 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab and have been happy with them. Sure they die right after the two year warranty, but they've worked great in the heat and the winter (although the fan sounds pretty bad when it's super cold) Today I noticed one bulb is out and I look online and see that they are no longer available. Maybe it's the virus, maybe they were discontinued, who knows. But being that these bulbs are 4 years old now at least since I've started using them, I figure technology in LED lighting has improved since then. What do you guys use? And do you currently have the dust cap installed (or at least can you install the dust cap with the LED bulb on) -- I want the dust cap on for my truck Maybe one day I'll have a headlight without a fan on it (we can dream can't we?)

Just to follow up, was planning to drive it Monday and deal with the issue next weekend, but the first right turn at a stop sign in my neighborhood killed the truck. Since I had to get to work I borrowed a car and my dad took it to get the recalls done and talk with them about it. (He managed to drive it in, with a follow vehicle) They finished two recalls pretty quick (think it was a software update) and the trucks seems fine so far (drove it to work this morning) so I think it was the “Loss of power steering assist” recall doing it I might have a weak ground still as this morning I noticed some dash flickering with headlights, fog lights, wipers etc But it must be connected well enough to make it I’ll update here if it happens again though, but like I said it was low speed turns, which probably stresses the electric power steering a lot

Yeah I was watching that video on the G218, I'll check my battery cable again later (my dad said it was fine, he looked at it before connecting the OBDII) I'll probably go to the dealer for recalls and ask about it, might have them do it before popping my dash apart, but it doesn't look too bad to mess with the driver side ground there so if they want too much I might make the attempt

So I just got the code email from onstar, I have the following: Module ECM Engine System Diagnostic Code P155A Diagnostic Information An issue has been detected in the Traction Control System Recommended Action Service at your convenience

So I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 105k miles currently, I was driving home from the mall area just now making a right hand turn onto an access road with my right turn signal on. I was giving it a little gas as I noticed people were starting to get a green light on the left turn ahead and all the power went crazy. I lost the center console TV screen, lost steering, heard all of the locks sort of make clicking sounds. Then one second later everything came back up like normal. It might have even killed the engine, but I'm not sure if it did or not. The battery is strong, no issues with starting, and I drove it home without stopping or pulling over fine. No check engine light, I pressed the onstar button and had them run a diagnostic, they said something about traction control and shortly after they said that I got a pop up on the dash that said something like "brake assist" or something like that (I could be wrong, kicking myself for forgetting the exact notification, shouldn't of hit OK on it) We put an ODB2 scanner on it anyway, nothing there, and my dad Hit clear on it anyway (maybe a bad idea if anything useful was saved there) I know there were a couple recalls that I need to take care of, but not sure if it's related to an open recall or not Let me know if anyone has any ideas, would hate to have it happen again in a higher speed situation

So coming back from the gym I unlocked the two or so times to open all the doors and the driver side rear door did not unlock. Started messing with it today, if I roll down the window and open it from inside, the door will unlock. And while hitting the lock / unlock buttons it will not move up or down, but I do hear a electronic actuator moving inside the door from somewhere below the lock. I'm thinking the actuator arm or something similar came loose some how, but am not sure. Anyone have a similar issue? Any good videos / instructions on pulling off the door panel and taking a look? Maybe the location of the fuse for the door locks?

Supposedly fuel injector cleaner will fix the rough idle (brother was complaining about it, said that cleared it up) You would think a new truck would have clean injectors though

Just now getting my seatbelt recall done and they said the noticed a frayed wire regarding the lane departure warning They said my invoice will have part numbers and want to charge $200 or so to replace it (seems I just rolled over my 12k mile CPO warranty by a couple miles or so) Since its frayed I'll put electrical tape or a wire sheeth over it and hope it doesn't short out here Edit Part number 22884702

Just bought it, need to remove the dealer emblems, but it's a pretty truck