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About jonesumd

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  1. I replaced the washer fluid pump this afternoon. Here are the steps I did. Hopefully this will help the next person. 1) I followed this YouTube video which does the following - remove part of the front of the wheel flair - remove the cover under the hood - remove part of the upper bumper (just below the headlights) - remove the grill - remove the driver side headlight 2) You need to remove the wheel-well cover on the driver side. This is done by removing a few T screws. You need to remove the screws just in the front of the wheel, just enough so you can get underneath the washer tank. No need to take the entire wheel-well cover off 3) Under the wash tank is a metal housing which is used to protect the tank. I believe it's 5 screws. Take the cover off. 4) Unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the washer tank 5) I removed the 2nd battery plate also. You will need to finagle it out as the front of the battery plate hits the wash tank 6) Disconnect the pump and the fluid level connectors. Disconnect the tube that's going to the pump. If you can't get to the pump connector, you can pull it out of the tank housing. Note: wash fluid will leak out. 7) Pull the tank out underneath 8) Replace the pump. I used the original rubber grommet instead of the one with the new pump. The quality of the original looked better 9) Before you reassemble everything, fill the tank up with some water to make sure it's not leaking. 10) Also before reassemble, connect the pump, tube, and fluid checker in but don't screw anything in yet. Fill the tank with some washer fluid. Connect the battery and check that the pump is working and that nothing is leaking 11) Reverse the steps to assemble. I didn't face anything unusual putting everything back. A few notes & gotchas I hit 1) Before you go through the hassle of replacing the pump, double check it's not simply a blown fuse. The fuse is number 54 (I think) under the hood by the driver side 2) Disconnect the battery before you start pulling things apart 3) I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the headlight connector. I didn't want to snap it (I've done this before on my other cars) so I let the headlight rest on a makeshift table in front of the bumper while still connected. 4) When I tried to remove the connector to the fluid level check, I ended up pulling the entire thing out of the tank. Not a big deal as you take the tank off anyways. To get the level check back in, I used a screwdriver and worked my way around the rubber until to went back in. Make sure it's really in there, you'll know because it's a tight fit. Also make sure the float is in the correct position. You will see a rectangle notch. 5) The youtube video says to pull the side of the bumper off. I ended up snapping a few plastic clips while doing this. If you do this, you'll notice what broke off is a replaceable part if you want to replace it. The bumper snapped in fine for me still. I broke 1 plastic clip on one side and 2 on the other side. They aren't really clips but notches. 6) When you start pulling the middle snaps on the bumper, make sure your screwdriver is where the snaps are. I ended up going from the bottom and unsnapping each underneath.
  2. newdude, Thanks for posting the instructions. I think I will go this route. I plan on doing it today or tomorrow.
  3. Almost impossible to find a shady inspection station in MA. They take pictures of front/rear/sides of your car during the inspection which is mandatory by the state.
  4. LOL, I live in your little sister nanny state, good old Taxachusetts.
  5. Hi all, Went to get an inspection sticker on my 16 Sierra with 6,600 miles on it. It failed because my washer fluid pump isn't working. I found the following youtube video showing how to replace the pump from the wheel-well but it's missing a bunch of steps and from the comments, people said it's a PITA. I also did a search on this forum and found a thread where someone replaced it by pulling the driver side headlight out. My truck is not under warranty anymore. If anyone has replaced their washer fluid pump, can you provide some tips? Did you go from the wheel-well or the headlight? Thanks, M
  6. Mine went with only 2,089 miles on my truck. I only had my truck a few months.
  7. woody6725, That's what I'm afraid will happen to me. My 2016 (I bought new) had it's condenser replaced at 2,089 miles (yes, that mileage is correct). It's been in the shop 6 times now for the AC not working and I have under 6,000 miles on my truck (don't drive it much). They replaced my condenser with the same faulty 1st gen model so I expect it to fail again soon.
  8. Unfortunately, yes. It's just a matter of time before it goes. Mine went at 2,089 miles and they replaced it with the same first gen condenser so it's guaranteed to go again. My truck is a 2016 with only 5K miles on it now (I don't drive it much). It's already been to the dealer 5 times for the AC. I submitted a lemon law request to the Massachusetts AG but my request was denied because the AC is not deemed a safety issue. I basically bought a $55,000 lemon. The AC is crap, it vibrates on the highway (not a wheel balance issue), it shifts hard, etc... I will never never ever buy a GM again.
  9. The same thing happened to me on my first visit. They claimed they couldn't find the leak, put dye in and recharged. A few weeks later, no AC. After 5 visits, my AC is currently working but I'm 99.9% sure it's going to die again. I will never, never, never, buy a GM vehicle again.
  10. If this is the same exact part for our truck, how is it even legal for GM not to post a similar 'Special Coverage' for us? Mine went at 2,089 miles and they replaced it with the same crappy one last year.
  11. And it's definitely the redesigned one they put in when the first failed? Mine failed at 3,000 miles. They installed the original designed one because the re-designed wasn't released yet. This was last year.
  12. Hi folks, I have another issue with my truck. Since day one of owning my truck, I leave my climate control to 70 with the Auto button on. This morning while driving to work on a colder day (around 30 degrees), I noticed very little warm air coming out of the vents. If it push one of the vent position buttons on, warm air comes out fine (for the specified vents). If I push the Auto button again, it goes back to barely any air coming out. While on Auto, if I crank the heat to Hi, I can hear the air kick in more in the front window defroster area but it's as if the air is circulating within the dash, not much coming out the defroster vents. The other vents still have almost no warm air coming out at Hi. What could be the issue? I really don't want to bring the truck down to the dealer again. I only have 3,646 miles on it and it's been to the dealer 5 times already for faulty AC components. Bought new in April 2016. I've brought it down to the dealer so far for the following: 2016-09 @1,412 miles : AC stopped working - claim they couldn't find leak, re-add dye & refrigerant (over 50% low) 2016-10 @1,692 miles : AC stopped working - replaced AC expansion value 2017-04 @2,089 miles : AC stopped working - replaced AC condenser with another gen1 condenser (gen2 wasn't available yet) 2017-06 @2,525 miles : AC stopped working - replaced AC expansion value again & seals 2017-08 @2,826 miles : AC stopped working - replaced AC evaporator core
  13. $250 on a truck with115K miles on it, that's an awesome deal.
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