The system resets every time you restart the vehicle. The only way they can be found to fault is if they fail when the dealer has it or if you take it to the dealer while they are inop. Just don't shut off the truck.
UPDATE: I've put just over 100 miles on the truck since getting it back, 95% of it 55mph or less and have not felt the vibration once. I just wanted to share the information with a forum that has provided me a lot of good information.
I agree, I have ASE certifications in Medium / Heavy Trucks and have exercised my Airframe & Powerplant certificate for 29 years. That makes it hard to not push for what I think will fix it, but I know what its like when someone I don't know tries to tell me how to do my job. The dealership called me yesterday afternoon to tell me the truck was ready to pick up, the Service Writer said the new driveshaft fixed it. I picked it up a couple hours ago, drove it home and was unable to duplicate the vibration, it was smooth as glass. Doubtful that the driveshaft actually fixed it I went through the paperwork when I got home and found the driveshaft did not fix it, it was the TSB I told them about the day I dropped it off. Right or wrong really doesn't matter in this case, I'm just glad the vibration is gone.
I took my 2016 8spd 5.3 in just over four weeks ago for harsh shifting. If it sat for a week it would not move when I put it in gear, not expecting that to happen, I would push down on the gas and it would rev up and slam into gear. At parking lot speeds it would slam into first or feel like someone hit me from behind. They did the transmission software update and I have had none of those problems since, but a new one arose. It now has a shudder when slightly accelerating or steady state above 35 mph. The shudder is random, does not seem to coincide with switching between V4 and V8. Its more noticeable with a load or passengers in the truck. It can be felt at any seat and you can see the steering wheel vibrate when it happens. I took it back in on 12/10 and wrote a detailed description of what was happening, I mentioned SB 16-NA-175 as a possibility, I did not print it out or push it on them though. The Service Writer called me on 12/11 and told me the Service Manager and Technician both drove the truck and could feel the vibration and were going to troubleshoot it. The Service Writer contacted me on 12/13 and told me they were leaning towards it being a driveshaft issue, specifically it not being properly balanced, again I mentioned there were SBs related to the transmission that fit the symptoms of my complaint. On 12/14 the Service Writer contacted me and said they were waiting on equipment to test the balance of the driveshaft. On 12/18 the Service Writer contacted me and said they had a new driveshaft on order from Canada, she went on to state there were two other trucks in the shop with the same problem and they had just replaced the driveshaft in one and the other was being ordered with mine. I am optimistic that will fix the problem, I have seen driveshafts cause strange problems but the thing they had in common was either damage to the driveshaft or the fact it had just been replaced. Never a new problem to an undamaged driveshaft that has been in service. The other problem with it being the driveshaft is it is the vibration is not in any way cyclic, I suppose it could be harmonic but even then it would most likely have a cyclic tie. They don't expect to get one for another week. I will update this thread when it gets replaced.
I tapped into the dome light wire in the BCM. Its above your left foot when sitting in the drivers seat, once you remove the cover its the left most connector, bottom right grey wire. I believe its pin 1 but I didn't really look, I used a fluke meter to test it. There are other places you can tap in, behind the drivers a-pillar or at the dome light switch in the overhead console. Just don't use a crimp on wire tap, either remove the pin and solider to it or strip a spot in the wire casing and solider to it, then you never need to touch it again. If you cant solider use a posi-tap connector at least they don't damage the wire strands or corrode.
I bought this LED kit for $13.99, it had enough modules to do the interior and the bed. I'm very impressed with the quality for the cost of these modules. The modules are UL listed, waterproof and pre-wired. The kit came with a harness, additional wire, real 3M adhesive pads, and screws if you chose to hard mount the modules. The light is 5000k, and looks to me just slightly yellow to the factory interior lights although that might just be the surface its shining on, its very close. I used 1 module at each seat and put the remaining 8 modules in the bed in addition to the factory bed lights. The bed has areas under the rail where the steel is stamped at an angle that made a perfect spot to mount these lights.
The 24v Brushless Impacts at Lowes have the following specs: 1/4" 1800in/lb (150 ft/lb) 3/8" 150 ft/lb 1/2" 200 ft/lb (650 ft/lb break away) I have taken lugs torqued to 100 ft/lbs off with the 1/4" impact, it wouldn't be my go to tool the 1/2" removes them with zero effort. The great thing about these over the others on the market is the power of the 24 volts and that they put the electronics that are normally in the battery in the tool. This makes the batteries very cheap: Kobalt 24-Volt Max 1.5-Amp-Hours Lithium Power Tool Battery $10.00 Kobalt 24-Volt Max 2.0-Amp-Hours Lithium Power Tool Battery $20.00 Kobalt 24-Volt Max 4.0-Amp-Hours Lithium Power Tool Battery $50.00 Kobalt 24-Volt Max 5.0-Amp-Hours Lithium Power Tool Battery $89.00 I have 5ea of the 1.5-Amp-Hour batteries that I rotate on the charger, it lets me keep a battery in each tool I have and gives a total run time equal to a 7.5 amps for $50.00. The 1.5 has enough power to run the Lowes flashlight at full power for over 7 hours continuous. The battery is a loss leader for Lowes it has 6ea Samsung 18650 2500mAh batteries that sell for over $5.00 ea. I bought one just to take apart and harvest the batteries for my tactical flashlight.
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