Was it an OEM replacement radiator and fan clutch? I’m telling you, all aftermarket stuff is questionable. I have been dogged numerous times in recent months from power steering lines on my truck to anti-rattle clips on the brakes of my mom’s Highlander. Never assume a replacement part is good, especially if it’s aftermarket. My number one suspect would be that fan clutch. Make sure all the shrouds there. I had to look at another truck once to make sure mine were put in right. Make sure also your replacement radiator was the correct one for your engine. I have faith in Modine and OEM. Don’t know about others.
I spent a few hours yesterday replacing left side engine mount. Do you have to replace these in pairs? I don’t think the right one is bad per say. It’s a bear of a job re: recessed/hard to get to bolts. I’m just wondering what standard practice is.
The problem is, diagnostic-wise you move on to the next step thinking you’ve made the desired repair. The mind tends to just go with “the new part is a good part.“ Just makes you mad as a hornet to have to go back.
Got some new NAPA power steering hoses installed (to and from rack) at local garage. Noticed connection to rack leaking. I replaced the seals in rack (little seals the size of a dime where the pressure/return lines go in). Still leak like crazy when wheel at full lock. Major frustration. I went out and got some OEM hoses and two more seals. I could tell when putting the hoses in they were a tighter fit. Put everything back together and no leaks. Aftermarket parts that aren’t quite right strike again. I almost always go OEM for stuff like this, this has reaffirmed that. Why can’t aftermarket get stuff like that right? It sucks to have to redo work.
Had new p/s lines installed on truck as they were weeping/leaking. NAPA hoses...they look pretty good. I told the shop to change the seal where they “plug in” to the steering rack. They of course did not do this, but they didnt charge me for it either. Anyway, naturally the thing is leaking now. Anyone have any experience changing this seal out?
Had to tilt the bed to check on fuel gauge anomaly. As I was reinstalling with cordless impact I stripped the second from rearmost bed bolt on passenger side. Still in hole, just free spins. My thinking on the matter of options is to do nothing (as still 7 installed tightly), or try to get a slightly larger self tapping bolt to put in. I am betting that it is the hole that is stripped, not the bolt as those bolts are pretty meaty and they are self tapping when installed at assembly center. What are your alls thoughts? As an aside, my fuel gauge wasnt hardly moving after refueling. Barely touched harness on fuel pump and it fixed it. Seems to be pretty okay now. Solid as a rock after taking plug off/reinstalling. Obviously theres a chance of a new plug/harness in my future. I was just glad the problem wasnt the fuel pump I put in 6 months ago. Has lifetime warranty, but still. So whats the thought?
Blown axle seal resulting in toasted rear wheel bearing (vibration)?
Might just have to replace lower control arm. At least youd get new balljoints too.
It leaks where the rubber is spliced in. On my 2wd I replaced with factory part and 4 years later it leaked again. On my 4wd I said screw it, used a dremel tool to cut the steel line above and below the rubber flex hose and just put 11/16 trans line secured by hose clamps in its place. So far so good.
Maybe some sort of thing that needs a Tech 2 to reset/relearn? Just a shot in the dark. Just for kicks, make sure all the connections are tight between airbox (maf sensor) and throttle body (and that no tears in that duct). Though if the tear was after MAF it would probably be running lean.
Got some new power steering hoses installed in the ‘13. I was glad they were available aftermarket at NAPA. It has been crappy weather here so I had a shop do it. They refilled system with ATF instead of PS fluid. I flushed the system (myself) and replaced with PS fluid as is called for in manual. Could I have just left ATF fluid in? I was going to call the shop and just gently say “hey, make sure your techs check the specs”, but I don’t want to do that if ATF would have been a perfectly ok substitute. I’ve had some vehicles that call for ATF, but this one obviously is PS fluid spec’d.
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