CapitalTruck

Like you, on my old 4.8 I used to change seal all the time, I’m on third oil change with my ‘24 2.7 and no problems so far. I should add that service manual for ‘24 says nothing about changing seal, on the older trucks it did.

Regarding the fuel economy discussion: With my '22 2.7 HO I am able to achieve 19.5/20 MPG on highway driving when I am really gentle with the throttle and stick around the area of the speed limit. Around town I get 16, again, driving very gently. This is quite better than the 4.8L in my 2013 that I got rid of.

I like how every year they update the TSB about defective wax coating to include the current model year. Tells me they are real interested in fixing it. I really believe that wax coating is just to get it through manufacturing/assembly without rust. After you have it they dont care as long as you get passed the 6yr100k.

I stopped by a dealership to look at a 2017, 28k miles. They wanted 30k for it. I looked under and it was a rust bucket. Insane. I realized all the CPO trucks here with low mileage are from up north. I guess they come to dealership at a good price. I was appalled at the thought of this much rust on a 3 year old truck.

Just got a set for my pickup (bought for pick up, wouldn't let them install them) for 90 bucks a piece. These are the same tires that were an option on my truck from factory. I have a set of them on now that have 50k on them, time for replacements. The 90 bucks was a one day only. However, they are still on sale for 110 a piece, that's still like 40-50 bucks off. I should mention that they're blackwalls (which are kind of hard to find, though in the past I always just put white letters inward) and they were made the 44th week of 2020. I was very pleased that despite the good price they aren't some holdover rejects. I've never bought tires that are so close to the date of manufacture.

As a driveway guy it really sucks to be putting in a part and have the thing just not quite right. I seriously go OEM like 99% of time now, its worth a little extra $. The plus with GM is having good access to OEM parts. Might as well take advantage of it. The power steering line thing for me was the last straw. I was beating myself up trying to figure what I did wrong.

If you have to, return the part and get an OEM metal topped one. I can’t tell you the run of aftermarket parts I’ve dealt with recently that ALMOST fit and then I use OEM and it fits perfectly. NAPA powersteering lines are the latest example on my silverado. I couldnt figure out why I couldnt get them to stop leaking at the rack. Said screw it and bought OEM, no leaks at all. A beck/arnley trans filter 3 weeks ago on my moms Highlander is most recent. It finally fit, but didnt click in as nice as OEM.

I have had success doing pan/filter (no major flush procedures) every 40-45k. I use ACDelco Full Syn Dex VI. A change takes 5 quarts.

I know this thread is old as heck, but this is correct advice. I just did my struts again and did a Monroe QuikStrut. It produced a softer ride and actually lowered the front end a little. Neither of these were welcome changes. Im really glad I saved OEM springs. So, after about a year of QuickStrut I switched back to new OEM struts and factory springs. I forgot how much better it was. So anyway, yeah, heed the advice above if you want to keep your OEM ride quality. If you have a beater and you just need a quick fix I’m sure the QuikStrut would be fine.

Yeah, I cant figure a way to hold the flat on the stem and tighten the bolt in that recessed upper mount. I guess if I way overtightened there would have been a failure I would have seen.

When installing the upper nut on new struts I held the strut rod with vise grips (using old bike inner tube for protection) and hit the nut with an impact wrench then gave it a couple quick extra bumps. I got it quite tight. Then I saw the 37lbs torque spec. Do I need to worry if I overtightened it? I don’t think anything deformed. Does anyone know a way to install that nut without impact wrench (and keep the rod from spinning).

Stud number two, at least on my GMT-900 is attached to the underhood fuse box. Its one of the two studs sticking out right next to the fuse box. The other of the two studs generally is used for the brake controller (You or I might have stud one and two mixed up, maybe one is for 12 v and two is for brakes controller). Regardless, the little decoder sheet for the underhood fuse panel has the fuses labeled stud 1 and stud 2. They are big fatty fuses...possibly 40 amps for stud one, 30 for stud 2 if I remember right (could be wrong). What I know for sure is that they are in underhood box approximately labeled.

I mounted on lower dash in area above parking brake. There is a slight curve to that part of the dash. Directions say must be level. Does this look okay or should I remount somewhere else? Never used one before. Sorry about flip image, cant get it to work right on phone. Gotta tow tomorrow a.m., so trying to nail down tonight.

Was it an OEM replacement radiator and fan clutch? I’m telling you, all aftermarket stuff is questionable. I have been dogged numerous times in recent months from power steering lines on my truck to anti-rattle clips on the brakes of my mom’s Highlander. Never assume a replacement part is good, especially if it’s aftermarket. My number one suspect would be that fan clutch. Make sure all the shrouds there. I had to look at another truck once to make sure mine were put in right. Make sure also your replacement radiator was the correct one for your engine. I have faith in Modine and OEM. Don’t know about others.

cool, because its not the most fun job and the OEM ones arent free.

I spent a few hours yesterday replacing left side engine mount. Do you have to replace these in pairs? I don’t think the right one is bad per say. It’s a bear of a job re: recessed/hard to get to bolts. I’m just wondering what standard practice is.

The problem is, diagnostic-wise you move on to the next step thinking you’ve made the desired repair. The mind tends to just go with “the new part is a good part.“ Just makes you mad as a hornet to have to go back.

I’m not keen on the pop and seal hose connection system with this rack. The standard flare nut with o-ring seemed to always work fine.

Got some new NAPA power steering hoses installed (to and from rack) at local garage. Noticed connection to rack leaking. I replaced the seals in rack (little seals the size of a dime where the pressure/return lines go in). Still leak like crazy when wheel at full lock. Major frustration. I went out and got some OEM hoses and two more seals. I could tell when putting the hoses in they were a tighter fit. Put everything back together and no leaks. Aftermarket parts that aren’t quite right strike again. I almost always go OEM for stuff like this, this has reaffirmed that. Why can’t aftermarket get stuff like that right? It sucks to have to redo work.

Had new p/s lines installed on truck as they were weeping/leaking. NAPA hoses...they look pretty good. I told the shop to change the seal where they “plug in” to the steering rack. They of course did not do this, but they didnt charge me for it either. Anyway, naturally the thing is leaking now. Anyone have any experience changing this seal out?

Had to tilt the bed to check on fuel gauge anomaly. As I was reinstalling with cordless impact I stripped the second from rearmost bed bolt on passenger side. Still in hole, just free spins. My thinking on the matter of options is to do nothing (as still 7 installed tightly), or try to get a slightly larger self tapping bolt to put in. I am betting that it is the hole that is stripped, not the bolt as those bolts are pretty meaty and they are self tapping when installed at assembly center. What are your alls thoughts? As an aside, my fuel gauge wasnt hardly moving after refueling. Barely touched harness on fuel pump and it fixed it. Seems to be pretty okay now. Solid as a rock after taking plug off/reinstalling. Obviously theres a chance of a new plug/harness in my future. I was just glad the problem wasnt the fuel pump I put in 6 months ago. Has lifetime warranty, but still. So whats the thought?

Yes, when I replaced the lines on my 04 I remember doing a ton of swearing trying to get those connectors back together. Anywhere you arent able to get good leverage causes those connectors to be nightmares. Again, I recommend just using a tubing cutter/dremel tool to cut out the crimped flexible lines and replace with rubber transmission cooler line (available any auto parts store) and a couple of clamps. So far mine is leak free. Just make sure you use hose labeled for transmission cooler use.

Buy a few extra of those little clips because sometimes they go flying.

I know they used to provide both options for replacement. I doubt they would have done that if it wasnt necessary.

Just be sure to work the stuff around in the tube before you use it. You know how mustard always dumps water on your hotdog before mustard comes out? This stuff kind of does the same. So, I always squirt a little on a towel before I use it.