Here's what I have: 2016 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 Crew Cab Z71 with 20" factory chrome wheels with 275/55/20 tires - everything factory stock. It's time for new tires, I've got 47k on the factory stock tires, I have never cared for the factory tires. If I am not mistaken, the wheels are chrome clad, part number 23220752, 20" x 9", 6 x 5.75 bolt pattern, 27mm offset. I am mostly interested in keeping the exact factory stock size tires and wheels, that's good enough for me and I would have to be convinced of no computer problems, no wear rubbing problem with a focus on better overall performance in order to consider anything else. I'm not really interested in a lift of any kind, I wouldn't mind to level the front end slightly and I followed the Bilstein 6112 thread waiting for months and by the time they were released, I wasn't interested anymore. Overall, I'm not overly concerned about appearance that much, I am more about overall function. I've never thought a second about what someone else might think about how my truck looks. My truck is over 3 years and it's never been washed, not even once which wasn't intentional, life got in the way with bigger priorities. My truck is a necessary tool to me and I have plans to have it detailed soon when the new tires arrive, I am however a maintenance nut so my truck never hurts for anything mechanically. So taking everything I've said so far into consideration, I am not a fan of the 20" chrome clad wheels, they look nice and all that but just not a fan. I'd never consider going to a 22" wheel but since 2 of my stock 20" chrome clad wheels have slight damage or scuffs I am wondering if now would be the time to consider dropping back to a 18" wheel or just buy another set of 20's. The vast majority of my driving consist of paved roads but I do hunt and fish, pull a boat, etc. My offroad adventures don't involve much mud but some, most off road driving involve gravel, dirt, hills and rocky creek beds. There's several good A/T tire choices and all would probably work fine for my needs. My dilemma is whether to buy another set of 20" wheels or drop to 18" wheels. Since the factory 20" chrome clad wheels are slightly damaged, I'm planning to keep those for a 2nd set of tires. I am only interested in buying black wheels regardless of the size chosen, I've looked at the GM replica wheels but have no input in regards to quality. I would prefer not to mess with spacers and all that stuff, I wouldn't want the wheels to stick out beyond the fenders. If I dropped to a 18" wheel, I'd want the tire size to be as close to the same as factory stock as possible. I don't post much but I'm here frequently reading a lot, it's clear there are a lot of better informed people on this subject than myself, I appreciate the time it took for you to read this post and thank you for your time if you choose to respond.
On the newer vehicles, the mud flaps mount direct on the moulded fender flare not directly on the metal part of the fender. So I guess it stands to reason if you have molded fender flares the same scenario exist in regards to trapping salt, dirt and other debris in between the actual metal body fender panel and the molded plastic whether you have mud flaps or not. Everyone has a different situation, and in my situation I won't never not have mud flaps.
I'm all about function as much as anything and I realize some people don't like mud flaps to make their vehicle appear cleaner and more lifted. Mud flaps serve a purpose for me, I had the specially made by GM mud flaps on my Chevy Avalanche for 15 years, it was easy to see over time having the mud flaps paid off in helping keep the vehicle clear of fender debris with less chips in the paint. I ordered both the WeatherTech and Husky mud flaps, both are excellent. After holding both styles of mud flaps in place on my truck, I could see a few differences. If I remember correctly, the Husky mud flaps were about 2 inches longer than the WeatherTechs but I can't remember if it was the front or the rear set (I think it was the rear) , the other set was roughly the same as the Weathertechs in length. I decided to keep the Weathertech and return the Huskys for these reasons. The Weathertechs did not require any drilling but honestly that doesn't mean much to me because if I think something needs to be fastened properly to function properly, then I'll add the necessary hardware, so far I haven't felt the need to add any screws to the Weathertechs. The Weathertechs also have the slight bulge contour that very closely matches the small mud guard in front of the rear wheel, the huskys were simply flat in shape. Overall, I felt the Weathertechs had the better fit and look for my vehicle but no points taken away from Husky, it's a matter of preference.
I have a EGR bug shield on my 2016 GMC Sierra. I had a bug shield on my Avalanche for 15 years so I at least wanted to try a bug shield on the GMC to see if I would like it, I simply felt I'd rather have it, than not have after 15 years of prior use. So far, I've very happy with the EGR bug shield but the instructions I received were not complete for my vehicle and I could not find specific vehicle information online to help with a correct install. One call to EGR and they responded quickly and emailed photo's of how they intended the bug shield to be installed, it wasn't exactly as I envisioned it and EGR did say the GMC trucks are the most difficult install and not as difficult on the Chevrolet trucks. I'm not sure if I still have the photo's but I might and I'd have to look to be sure. In regards to AVS, they are almost equal to WeatherTech products in my mind, they spend more on advertising instead of manufacturing quality products and keeping a close eye on quality control. I first purchased a AVS bug shield with matching AVS vent visors. Once the shipment arrived, all of the products were received in poor condition, every item was dinged or scratched while still in the factory packaging. I didn't even bother opening the bug shield, it was unacceptable and was shipped back immediately. I decided to give the AVS vent visors a try, they were scratched up too with one front logo almost totally missing from being rubbed off. After install, the fronts looked okay but the rear vent visors concaved right away. I jammed some stiff foam rubber underneath both sides and let the vehicle sit in the hot sun untouched for 5 days while we took a little trip. Upon our return, I removed the foam rubber and the vent visors immediately concaved and enough so that the rear windows would not close without rubbing them, so those were returned and EGR vent visors where purchased and have preformed perfectly so far.
After looking at the WeatherTech mats and a few other aftermarket mats a month or so ago, I decided on the Husky X-Act Contour and I am very pleased with these mats. They are real rubber and feel much like the original factory GM mats but probably softer, they feel great under your feet with zero movement, coverage is excellent, that's my quick 2 month field test so far in a unusually bad weather period. I found the WeatherTechs to be not much more than a hard plastic tray that slides around too much and like others have mentioned, not having the area underneath the accelerator covered is just plain stupid and the WeatherTechs tend to curl on the edges over a period of time. I feel WeatherTech purposely left the area underneath the accelerator pedal missing because of the potential and pending mat stiffness and edge curl that will eventually develop over time which in turn could and probably will cause the mat/tray to slide and wedge underneath the accelerator pedal potentially causing a accident. Husky also makes the hard tray slider mats that are very much like the WeatherTechs but the Husky X-Act is different. I don't want anything to do with WeatherTech anymore, they don't back their product very well for the most part, just read up on the subject a little. It's all marketing anyway, you don't have to be the best, just get people to believe your the best and that's exactly what WeatherTech has done. On the Husky X-Act mats, there's a big ugly logo on the front mats, it's peels right off - thankfully. I also have the Husky rear mats with a Husky truck storage box. If I've accidently missed where someone else posted a similar message reflecting a similar experience concerning these mats - please forgive.
Unfortunately NOT for me, more than one message I've sent has never been answered in more than 2 weeks time. I'm sure a BS excuse will be forthcoming once the need to hang out another for sale sign is needed. Honestly, it's fine, there are other vendors who would like to have my business, just wish my time wasn't wasted so I could have moved on. Like I mentioned, I hope others have a better experience.
So what type of paint did you use? Brand? I guess I should say I have a couple of choices with my truck to change the emblem color to black or silver. I'd like to know specifically what type of paint to use and while black would be a easy choice, I'd like to see what options are available in silver if I wanted to color match. I've used spray paint made specifically for plastics for years and I probably already have a couple of colors on hand. The confusion part of this process is the word "dip". Search plastic dip and you'll mostly find the type of plastic dip intended to dip tool handles and such, that's why I am specifically ask what type of products most people have used with success. The front emblem will take a bug beating, I'm wondering how the plastic spray color with clear coat will hold up over time? Washings? I wouldn't mind spending the coin for reproduction emblem although there are a couple I've found that seems to be priced in the flat out stupid range. Billet and other non-plastic emblems are a possibility I would consider but I wouldn't want the emblem to protrude significantly enough where crud would eventually get behind it and possibly dislodge it, most seem to use some type of double sided tape to hold it on.
I've had no luck getting MRT to respond to any of my messages, plenty of for sale signs hung out but nothing in the way of the useful information I need before making a purchase. I can't do business with people I can't communicate with. I hope your situation is different...
The vast majority of shipment damage is due to the use no packing materials or improper packing materials and improper packing techniques by the shipper. If a round piece of steel is put in a square cardboard box without any additional packing materials, expect the results you see in the pictures. By the way, the carton or box the manufacturer uses to package the product is not considered the proper carton for shipment, although some will work fine, it's best to double box heavy items. From what I can see in the pictures, I wouldn't doubt if the items received where not store returns and resold based on the amount of visible wear to the outside of the manufacturing cartons. Unfortunately, we live in a world of cutting corners, doing more with less, etc. The power of the almighty dollar is at work, it's a "hope for the best" scenario when buying online to save money. That said and keeping things realistic, the realtruck employee is likely pushed to pack and ship quickly to make production, likewise the UPS driver really doesn't have time to hang around chat either, it's a game of company accountability where every second of every day is accounted for, it's not the employee's fault. I've had the UPS driver point out problems more times than not with inconsistencies but not every time, sometimes they just think I'm not home. The UPS driver doesn't have many options when delivering your package, deliver it, mark it refused or indicate a future delivery at a later date. The consignee (you) cannot open the package to check for damage, you'll have to make the decision to accept or refuse based on what you see (obviously if given that opportunity). In this situation, I suspect the UPS driver noticed the shipping carton was in bad shape but realized the product was probably made of steel and therefore probably okay to deliver. If the UPS driver had taken the package back, a UPS clerk would have inspected for damage and rewrapped the package and another delivery attempt would be made the next day. In this situation, one delivery day would have been lost because it appears the items inside the package were actually okay (except for the fallout item) hence the UPS driver actually made the correct decision to deliver the packages. In the situation where a empty box was received with no product inside, that clearly falls on realtruck as does the rest of the problems for shipping a improperly packaged shipment, not UPS. I once ordered a drop hitch from Amazon, I received the shipment, I knew right away the box was way too light to have a chuck of metal inside. I looked at the end of the box, sure enough it had a hole in it, no hitch inside the box and had zero packing materials inside. The chuck of metal slid back and forth during transit and eventually pushed through the cardboard and fell out. I contacted Amazon, as usual they made it right and reshipped my order, the 2nd order came a few days later, guess what, the package was light in weight and had a big hole in the end of the box with no hitch and no packing materials inside. This time I contact Amazon, got a refund and purchased what I needed from Lowes, both Amazon packages were improperly packaged, what a waste of time and product. This thread is a few months old, hopefully all the issues have been resolved by now. Lastly, I'd like to comment on "Free Shipping", I've got a lot of friends who work in the shipping industry with USPS, UPS and FedEx. I don't know a single one of them that works for "free", there is no such thing as free shipping, it's simply figured into the cost of the item and I'd be willing to bet the vast majority of us are paying more than we would otherwise on so called "free shipping" but that now has become our culture.
Great color, I've had this exact or a very similar color on 2 previous vehicles I've owned. The only thing I would have to say that could be considered slightly negative is that the color blends perfectly with certain colors of asphalt which at times (obviously depending on other conditions) might cause other motorist to not see or pick up sight of this color as quickly. Just like riding a motorcycle, automatically assume they don't see you anyway.
Well, I too jumped at the chance to buy the AMP Research 7615401A power steps for $876.00 on Amazon. I realized right away the tracking number Redline provided was bogus. UPS never has and never will use the letter "O" in tracking numbers to avoid any confusion with the number "0" (see the difference?). I contacted Amazon, cancelled the order, got my money back and was able to grab the next best price of $970.31 before it disappeared. The power steps are worth the price, I wish I had found this thread sooner to let everyone know sooner.
I also purchased these, less than $10 bucks delivered. These are high quality plugs, not the cheap plastic super thin plastic tube plugs. I'd recommend this type for sure, it's better than anything I could have made myself.
I'm still trying to decide which bed cover to buy. I've looked at every brand and model I've been able to find that would work best for my needs. There's definitely advantages and disadvantages to each brand/style, really no wrong answer so it seems, depends mostly on how you plan to use it the most. A family member has the FAC G4 Elite, I'm very familar with how it functions and it's pretty versatile in function. Another guy I know has a Re-trax, he likes it a lot but not sure it's right for me. Most of the other brands lack something I'd prefer to have, like front panel opening or rear panel opening without the need to open the tailgate each time. I guess I'm leaning towards FAC the most but it's not the perfect solution either.
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