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About EMCguy

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  1. I’m looking for the cocoa/dune center console. Have a dune jump away for possible trade. If I have to order Does anyone have a vin # for the brown console with mineral caster trim? No DVD. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I’m looking for the cocoa/dune center console. Have a dune jump away for possible trade. If I have to order Does anyone have a vin # for the brown console with mineral caster trim? No DVD. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I have the cocoa/dune jump seat in 2015 crew cab. Shoot me a pm and we can talk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I had to replace carpet in my crew cab after a water leak. Purchased from dealer for around $350. Looked at some others priced around $250. Decided $100 was worth the factory fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. . You are correct. Now my cover is blown! This build had some adventure along the way. That factory mount in the dash is basically infinite baffle which would not yield great low end response from most any speaker going in that hole. I actually used some extra "luxury liner" mlv material to fill up the sides to create a very loose breathable enclosure. Then I filled the resulting cavity with poly fill. A little back pressure from even a loose enclosure should help things down a bit below 400hz and curb any unwanted resonances, but I didn't worry with sealing 100% air tight. Really just folded up the mlv and stuffed it below that mounting plate to create some up pressure on the plate to keep it from jumping around. More theory than science at this point. Speaker grill has holes just above the speaker. Adequate for a midrange in factory location. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. There's nothing wrong with having a goal to work towards. Part of this hobby is always believing that "x" could be better. If you are not a member, join the DIYMA forum and watch the classified ads. You can pick up the helix or mosconi or miniDSP for 100s off list usually. Most of the time it's mint condition or even new equipment that someone's install just took a different direction. Bought several items there this summer myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Funny how the grass is always greener. I have the sliding window but would prefer the solid glass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Probably not, but electrical issues can defy logic sometimes. I chased one for almost 2 years before finally reconfiguring the same vehicle. New ground location solved it....what size power wire are you running to amps and to grounds? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Did you remove paint at the connection point of grounds? Are grounds going to same bolt or different? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks to all the input on this thread. I placed and order 2 weeks ago from gmpartsonline.net for the exact parts numbers needed to convert my 2015 SLT Cocoa/Dune Console. After jerking me around on multiple phone calls which was initially because vin#s didn't match the parts, which I appreciate the double check, they finally tell me that the main console assembly has been discontinued by GM?! Not their fault but the phone support is horrendous. They only know how to order parts that are an exact match. Forward me around the building at least 8 times only to find out they can't get he part that I paid for 2 weeks ago. Rant over. Does anyone have another supplier that you would recommend? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Cool. Let us know how it goes. Definitely only way to learn is to put the phone down and roll up your sleeves! Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I went with the truck covers USA model additional Yakima racks built in for more flexibility. These aren't cheap but they are built very solid and better than they have to be. Should last for years. So far 18 months and going strong. http://www.truckcoversusa.com/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Yes a passive crossover network utilizes capacitors, etc. to convert or limit the bandwidth sent to a pair of components. Here's a pic of one I have laying around. basically send it a single input and the output gets chopped up to power usually a (2-way) mid and tweeter. Fancier models use a 3-way midrange, MidBass, tweeter which is ideal in your application but you can accomplish the same thing with the 4 channel amp and built in crossovers. I actually used this setup in my 2004 Sierra. Below is an example, you'll need to adjust crossover points depending on your final driver selection. Amp Channel A/B High Pass cross over at >400Hz Feed 2way passive crossover (as pictured above) which then feeds dash and tweets. The passive xover will vary by model, but generally splits the mid/tweets around 3-4khz in case you are wondering. Amp Channel C/D Low Pass crossover <400Hz straight to doors. Your question about tweeter placement is good. Ideally yes they should be close, but the sail vs APillar distance is probably not worth arguing over. What is worth arguing over is the resulting angle to your ears. Tweets, or high frequencies in general, are more directional and can be helped or hurt by reflections, but will ultimately sound best when aimed on axis + or - 15 degrees. This is subjective, but I decided that the APillar was just not conducive for easy flush mounted tweets. It's angles down towards the dash and my tweets could not be adjusted enough to make up the angle back to the driver and up from the dash. Finally, most of the car audio fanatics, myself included usually agree that active crossover networks are BEST. Active just means that crossover points, slopes, timing, etc. are adjusted ELECTRONICALLY by a HU or DSP. Both of those are not cheap or easy for the uninitiated, oft more rational DIYer. That complexity would allow you to perfectly adjust for those inevitable less than ideal physical limitations of an install. Like your tweeter placement example. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. That is an awesome blast from the past! When I was 16, I had a good friend with one of these Profile tanks running two RF 15" subs in a single cab Dodge Ram. If you are all set on sub and sub amp. I would suggest that the best bang for your buck would be to run a midrange and tweeter through a passive crossover with 2 channels and run the MidBass in doors with the remaining channels. Ideally, this would require HighPass/LowPass crossovers on the amp. Just leave the rear speakers for rear fill powered by the stock HU. How do you plan to extract the signal from the OEM HU? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I followed your build on the forums. Well deserved accolades. Regarding stock dash location The GB25 was as direct drop-in replacement as you are going to find. I really wanted the HAT L3pro but it would require sacrificing the slight angle advantage with factory mounting plate or removing factory plate altogether. I have a friend that wants me to try the Illusion C3Cx to streamline the build. It has about the smallest cutout diameter that I have found at just under 3". The GB25 is 2.25" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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