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Lamby66

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About Lamby66

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    Mike Lambert

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  1. I did not do the replacement as it was under warranty. They removed the upper part of the fuse box on the drivers side. There is some circuity in the fuse block and the relay that is pictured in the schematic is actually solid state and not user serviceable. It is inside the fuse block. good news it its not super expensive to replace
  2. Exactly :-) Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. I found the TSB for 16-NA-175, what is 18-N? Thanks
  4. hopefully it is replace with the ford designed 10L90 and be done with it.
  5. i see I am the only only one. my 2016 NHT 6.2 is doing the same thing now at 31,000. The service writer called to tell me that he verified its bad, but it can be seen by a tech until next week. we will see what they do but my guess is its the torque converter as well.
  6. I am having a heck of a time with my dealer not addressing the intermittent loss of the ability to fold my factory towing mirrors on my NHT truck. I know this has been addressed before and other dealers have actually fixed them, is there any TSBs or anything else I can use to address this annoyance? I have a video of the passenger side not folding, but a video is not verification of a fault according to my dealer. Thanks in advance.
  7. i place mine against the front wall and then block them off with my totes. If I am only transporting tanks, so to get them filled, I use a rack made from pool noodles and rope near the gate.
  8. Foglights Auto On

    Madcow, this is not for me. I was helping others modify the lighting control circuits. My mods work perfectly. My next mod will be a timer circuit added to my cargo light mod. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  9. Foglights Auto On

    His fee is 200 for what would cost about $12 in parts and about an hour of time. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. Foglights Auto On

    This is why I built the circuit I did. Launching duck boats at the butt crack of early and driving in campsites. My foglights turn off if the headlights are not on. The circuit I made for if you changed to X4-23 would work pretty sweet too. Foglights always on unless I turn them off. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. Foglights Auto On

    I think X4-7 is data looking at the circuit. I think it controls the light control module. I dont think that will work for you. You can check X4-23 out of park a d this should go logic low (it disables the adjustable pedals when you are driving) X5-22 with X4-23 and you should then have fog lights when ever the truck is not in park.. the isolation relay still would work the same. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  12. Foglights Auto On

    I understand. Did you check with the truck actually in drive? I think the DRL and parking light logic is the same. But you need to be in drive. I will have to see what the circuit you stated does but if it's a logic low when the drl circuit is on, it will work. I think the lights circuit is a little complex though. There is a data line that goes between the bcm and the lights. I think the DRL circuit is data and not logic. There is a transmission is not in neutral pin too.. also might be an option for you. Again it it's a logic low. If it is, just use that instead of the X5-22 pin. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  13. Foglights Auto On

    We are close. The automatic foglights are tied to the running lights. They are on when the truck is driving or the lights are on. Pressing the fog light control might actually do two things the first time you press it. 1) it will energize and latch the relay removing the foglight always on mod. 2) it will probably tell the BCM to turn ON the fog lights and your dash symbol will light. Pressing it again will turn off the lights and then every additional press will turn them on or off. When you turn of the truck it resets the relay. It will then allow the DRL mod to work again until next time the foglight button is pressed. Make sense? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. Foglights Auto On

    Here is a circuit that SHOULD work for what you need. Verify that the x3-5 pin is 12v on ignition which it looks like it should be. You will need a 12v 5a dpdt relay. They sell them on Amazon for like 8 bucks with the base (you can use it if you want or solder to the relay contacts) Make sure you connect a diode across the coil of the relay to prevent ringing. The cathode (bar side) needs to be on the ignition side of the coil. Operation: Then the truck is driving day ot night, the parking lights are on (drl) this is on x5-22 When the truck is started the relay is de-energized and the normally closed contact bridges the drl to the X5-10 FOGLIGHT control (protected by the diode in x5-22 The fog lights will be on if the truck is driving, or the lights are on. If you press the factory fog light switch (logic low at X1-15), the relay will close and stay latched due the normally opened contact on the 2nd circuit pulling the wiper to ground. This will isolate the diode between X5-22 and X5-10. The relay will stay latched as long as there is power to the relay via X3-5 (verify that is a good ignition power source) The fog lights will now function as factory fog lights. Not allowable to be in high beam and turned on and off by the switch. When the ignition is reset, so is the relay. The truck will go back to auto foglight mode. I take no responsibility for any actions that arise from you modifying your truck including blowing your BCM. DO THESE MODS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. Foglights Auto On

    Oops, I said that wrong... the high beam circuit is fine. It's the low beam circuit that is a 12v control voltage.. that is the one needs the inverter!!! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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