Coby7

Anybody on here have the pinout for a 2005 Mustang GT Instrument Panel. I don't normally work on these clusters but I have a 10 thump buddy who insist I repair his Mustang cluster. Please help, he can be so annoying!!!

GM recommends 0-W20. but eversince I got my truck I was having lifter noise and well it had a new oil change when I got it and endure this click-click for 3000 miles, then when it came time to change the oil since I didn't know what was put in last, I opted for my trusted Valvoline 5-W20 full synthetic. The ticking persist for a couple of weeks ever so slightly seemingly getting better after every start. Well today I remotely started my truck because it was fridgide outside and when I walked to it to my surprise I thought I had gone deaf in my left ear so I did a 180 only to hear the same thing ''NOTHING''. I couldn't believe it so when I got to my destination I killed it went in and when I came out waited until I was right beside the truck to remotely start it to see if I would get a lifter click and ''NOTHING'' came home got out without turning it off right away and ''NOTHING'' . That was this morning so before I decided to write this book went out and stood beside my truck and remotely started it and ''NOTHING'' (-13°C / 9°F ). So if I lose .1MPG using 5-W20 so be it at least I have peace of mind of a quiet engine and maybe my cam lobe isn't shot like rumors on here.

Mine is an eleven, do you have a picture of where it cracked?

Hope it's over a supporting beam or it'll end up in the basement. Don't even know if I could fit a glock in my safe lol.

Wow, that looks expensive and heavy.

Except I don't normally work on others except 03 to 07 and this afternoon again unannounced a guy drove from Fredericton 2 hours away because he heard somebody in Moncton fixes clusters and his truck was a 2002. I didn't turn him away and I fixed his odometer display but sure wish they would call first. Asked the guy for $20 and he gave me $50. So 2 of the 3 clusters I did today were unannounced. It kinda stirs my soup a bit...

Just had an older guy drop in, didn't call or nothing. Fixed his cluster just the same lol..Then sold a 2004 Honda Civic FOB and a 2002 Silverado FOB

A few months back somebody gave me an old defective cluster, I didn't realise it then that it was an 06-07 classic and put it aside. This morning cleaning the shop a bit I came upon it and said to myself what the hell lets see if I can resurrect this baby and put it up for sale. Some barbarian had been into it and nothing worked. He had stripped The idiot LEDs for CEL, ABS, Seat belt and emergency brake. By doing so knocked off a few components, one in the high voltage circuit supplying the odometer display, background bulbs were cracked and burnt and most of the gauge motors were bad. I scratched my head and wasn't sure I wanted or felt like doing this this morning. But one by one I tackled each obstacle and when I got the odometer display going and saw it only had 214502 Kms then I really wanted to get her going. Replaced all missing components and stepper motors and LEDed in cool white. It turned out pretty good and every thing works, I think. Need a truck to test it in now.

There's always a first in a domain, I just repaired a cluster for a 2005 DuraMax six speed manual standard cab long bed. See the 5K Tach... I'd say it's a pretty rare truck. High beam indicator didn't work, left blinker bulb was missing, broken selector switch for odometer display burnt background bulbs and a bunch of other stuff. To my surprise all motors worked good.

If I enter the acronym PDM in the GM server search line for 2003 Silverado the only response I get is Pump driver module for a diesel truck. I'm trying to educate myself here so hang in there. Where physically is this PDM you're talking about located?

Didn't even know the 03 Silverado had TPMS. Thought it only started in 05 and became law in 08. Also thought the RCDLR was part of the BCM in 03, I'm confused.

Okay, I think you have proven that your FOBs have failed just order a new one and try programming it. Cheapest route for now.

If door locks cycled that means your RCDLR went into programming mode. You then have to hold the lock and unlock buttons for sometimes almost 30 seconds for each FOB.

Also the procedure you have fails to mention that you have a limited time to do this, once you insert the key and press and hold the unlock button you only have like 10-15 seconds to cycle the ignition twice or it will not work. Here is the written procedure I use and it works every time. Make sure all doors are unlocked before you start. 1. Close all vehicle doors. 2. Insert the key into the ignition. 3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver’s door panel-continue to hold down until instructed to release in step 9. 4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession. 5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine). 6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock the doors automatically. 10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until the door locks and unlocks. This step may take up to 30 seconds. 11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing transmitters). 12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.

Did you say you replaced batteries in both FOBs at the same time? If yes then you need to do a resynchronisation. High lighted that in red here. Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) System Operation If your vehicle has this feature, you can lock and unlock your doors from about 3 feet (1 m) up to 30 feet (9 m) away using the remote keyless entry transmitter supplied with your vehicle. UNLOCK: Pressing this button once will unlock the driver's door. The parking lamps will flash and the interior lights will come on. The ground illumination lamps will come on. Pressing UNLOCK again within three seconds will cause the remaining doors to unlock. The parking lamps will flash and the interior lights will come on. LOCK: Pressing this button once will lock all of the doors. Wait one second, then press LOCK again and the horn will chirp. Operating the keyless entry transmitter may interact with the theft-deterrent system. See Content Theft-Deterrent . Remote Alarm When the panic button with the horn symbol on the keyless entry transmitter is pressed, the horn will sound and the headlamps and taillamps will flash for up to 30 seconds. This can be turned off by pressing the panic button again, waiting for 30 seconds, or starting the vehicle. Matching Transmitter(s) to Your Vehicle Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle. If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have a maximum of four transmitters matched to it. Battery Replacement Under normal use, the battery in your remote keyless entry transmitter should last about two years. You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won't work at the normal range in any location. If you have to get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works, it's probably time to change the battery. Notice: When replacing the battery, do not touch any of the circuitry on the transmitter. Static from your body could damage the transmitter. To replace the battery in the keyless entry transmitter do the following: Insert a dime, or similar object, in the slot between the covers of the transmitter housing near the key ring hole. Remove the bottom by twisting the dime. Remove and replace the battery with a three-volt CR2032 or equivalent battery, positive (+) side up. Align the covers and snap them together. Resynchronize the transmitter. Check the operation of the transmitter. Resynchronization Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by this system. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver will not respond to a signal that has been sent previously. This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter. To resynchronize your transmitter, stand close to your vehicle and press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter at the same time for 15 seconds. The door locks should cycle to confirm synchronization. If the locks do not cycle, see your dealer for service.

If it doesn't cycle the locks in step 4 then you have an other problem. Maybe the fuse for the RCDLR is burnt. Let me see see if I can identify it.

Here's that little video if it will work... The good FOB is on the left and the bad one is on the right even though it still transmits it's a dud.

That is the right procedure. Does your truck go into programming mode after step 4? These FOBs are a bit odd, they will lose half the protocol after a 12 years. I sell and program lots of these every year. I check the FOB and it transmits but doesn't work on the truck. A good one sends 4 streams of code where these when they fail only send 2. I will make a little video and post it here. You US guys can get these for cheap on amazon.com and these are of better quality than OEM. https://www.amazon.com/KeylessOption-Keyless-Remote-Control-Replacement/dp/B00KTIAREM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486069494&sr=8-1&keywords=gm+2003+fob

They are all made of the same material now! $5 blue ,$10 purple, $20 greenish, $50 orangy and $100 brown. Didn't have a $10 bill on me to show but it would have Sir John A MacDonald on it in purple but you get the picture.

Not all plastic, they have a plastic hologram insert like the Australian currency to help stop counterfeiting. It worked in Australia so why not apply it here. Which they would bring back the pink $1000 bill though.

If your cluster odometer ever lets go PM me and I'll walk you through the repair. Did one this morning and it's fresh in my mind. lol

Just tallied up my month, repaired or refurbished 18 clusters this month, and this morning I repaired our Mercedes dealer's only OBDII working controller that failed. They had a bunch of new ones coming in for the new models and only had one working unit until the new ones arrived. I received it at 7:53 this morning and handed it over to the technician to test it out at 9:11. Every technician is fighting for the only working unit. I asked for $20 and the manager threw $50 at me. Gave me 2 other units that I returned to him 1 hour later in good working condition so he threw an other at me. Now they at least have 3 working units until the new ones come in. The new ones are bluetooth and Wi-Fi so no more wires dangling.

03-04 have a cluster issue where the cluster doesn't shut down after you pull the key. I fixed 4 of these this month alone. 05 up have the same issue but far less frequent. Problem can be in different locations on the circuit board so you kinda need an expert for this one. For example the last 4 I dealt with 3 were in a different location. Also this problem is intermittent and may not be there while you're testing.

Power came back this morning and 15 minutes later had 2 dead truck clusters in my hand, repaired one and refurbished the other.

Haven't done anything in the shop the last 2 days with no electricity. Ice storm took most of my trees down. Felt like crying yesterday morning. Spend a lifetime nurturing the trees on your property and Mother Nature strips them of their branches limb by limb.