Coby7

Have any of you guys done or tried this? Anytime DRLs or low beams would be on so would the fog lights. I was wondering if adding diodes between H4 and K2 to C2 ( Cathode at C2 of course ) of connector 4 of the underhood fuse block would accomplish this.

This kind of response is almost worth more than the money he gave me.

Just finished a 2004 Silverado cluster repair and LEDed his HVAC

Received new TechII software version 33.004

You should hire a kid to brush scrub those down, it would be money well spent I think. Would increase the look and value.

I thought I'd get used to it, but no, just pulled the Ziggy stripes off of my truck, I just couldn't take it any more.......

Just finished an 05 and an 03 Silverado full refurbish in blue.

This 84 year old guy tells me he bought his truck new in November 1953 and it's still his daily driver. It's in rough shape but everyday that he needs to go somewhere his faithful companion is always there for him. He's replaced the engine once or twice over the years and went through several clutches but hey I know my truck won't last that long.

Might take one again when it's really dark out, this is like Xmas morning for me.

Well it's almost night time and couldn't wait. These are great..... Here's a picture through the tinted glass. And here's one inside, this white light is so much nicer.

Received and installed my 39mm LED festoons this morning. They are polarity dependant so trial and error while installing. They dim smoothly contrary to some I've seen. Can't wait to see how they light up the cab at night now...A nice white light.

Are you going to clear coat them and how are you going to install them without marking them?

Okay I'm going to bite, what are the 80 flanged head bolts for?

That is a beautiful truck, I prefer that nose to the newer ones.

The Volvo on a trailer should last a long time. When you get home park it on the front lawn and next time you to go somewhere load it on the trailer again and go. That Volvo will last a long time.

A lot of aftermarket rotors don't have a chamfered edge.

Here is a video of the timer shutting down after 20 seconds. This is a test I perform on all repairs to make sure the timer works. You'll see my hand reach behind to shut the ACC power in the beginning.

I just run a file or grinder on both edges of the rotor so there's a chamfer on the edge. This always kills the high pitch squeal from rotors. Especially if they rusted before you installed new pads.

Just finished 2 more 2003 clusters for son and dad, both were dead. They're back alive, Both fully refurbished and LEDed in cool white.

Just finished a repair on a manual Silverado cluster, notice no PRND321 display.. This one was dead to the world when I got it. It had corrosion on the back side of the board, cleaned it and covered the spot with cutex.

I repair these every day, 03-04 have this problem of cold solder ( made in Mexico ), the cluster failing to fire up is usually the 3 24Ω resistors clustered together to the right of the right speedometer background bulb. Do not use an iron hotter than 750°F or you'll pull the copper foil off the board. Sometimes with the 03 the 2 bigger glass diodes above the speedometer motor will also get a cold solder. If the PRND321 display is on but not the odometer then it's the lone resistor 1200Ω to the left of the voltage multiplier coil at the left of the tach motor As far as your other problem, your cluster is suppose to shut down after 20 seconds, there's an electronic timer between the speedo motor and the 4 gauges to the right. This one is a bit more complicated to repair and will often necessitate the cluster board to overnight in the freezer to pin point. Did 2 yesterday that wouldn't fire up, they haven't called back to complain. Do not attempt any of these repairs if you are not familiar with a fine point low temperature soldering.

Same shock only one doesn't have a dust cover. One less thing to rust and fall off....

I just got some cheap T10 LEDs off of ebay or some China site to see if it would be better, it is way better. If they don't last I'll get more expensive ones. I believe these were the ones, I ordered a spare at that price. It says 30W I don't think this means 30 Watts, may mean it puts out equivalent to 30 Watts halogen bulb. I measured a regular 921 (the ones that were in) at just under 2 Watts and the LEDs at 3 Watts. So maybe there's a missing decimal point. Or just a selling scam. http://www.banggood.com/T10-912-921-6-LED-White-Light-30W-12V-Car-Backup-Reverse-Lamp-p-1015069.html?rmmds=search

Park lights are on... Might be too bright lol

Today I swapped the 2 firefly poor excuses for back-up lights for LEDs. Will take pictures tonight. Pretty hard to tell during the day even on a cloudy day. These have 3 LEDs pointing back through a lens and 3 pointing towards the reflector. I just did a bench test and I'll be seeing spots for an hour. You cannot look at the LED one dead on while the halogen looks like a firefly by comparison. Test was performed at 13 Volts and down 2 f stops so you could see something other than white. Couldn't take a picture headon the LED so had to take it at a slight angle. I will post picture as soon as photobucket is back up.