Coby7

Was an electronic Technician back then for CBC, but was lent to NBC and CBS for some problems they encountered with Ampex Video recorders they had back then. My overtime check was greater than my yearly salary. Was in Los Angeles for 13 weeks and Palo Alto for 5 weeks prior specializing. The nightmare of working for a US company with no working VISA was something worked out by my company and US broadcasters. They had to prove none of their employees knew how to solve the problem. Since I had encountered the same problem on 2 of our machines I had all of of a sudden become an expert. They actually paid CBC through programming rights or something like that. I don't like paper work and to me back then we had one moto ''The show must go on''. We had a similar issue in Sydney in 2000 with Sony Cameras overheating and blowing power supplies but there no work visa issues. Accounting took care of the billing. Was also there for 13 weeks working double shift 7 days a week. Hardest Olympics to recover from and I was only 44 at the time. Got home October 3rd and didn't feel good until Christmas. Rough times. In Sydney I was the field Engineer and had way too much untested new gear, mostly Sony crap.

Paid off my mortgage in 1984 after I received my overtime check from working at the Olympics.

My neighbour has an Oldsmobile Aurora that has them.

It might be prettier than the Honda but not by much...

Well I may have written that to quickly without verifying, it is in the BCM menu as rear Fog light enable and rear trailer fog light enable but nowhere did I see actual pin-out for rear fog lights or connector end view with these. So my bad for assuming. This of course was for a 2011.

Truck is wired for them but only mandatory in the UK.

It's got a flat...

Bubble bursting!!! These don't give out a lot of light and I think they are purely aesthetics so why not have them on all the time while driving if it makes you feel safer and seen. The owners manual refers to them as driving lights on a few occasions so when I drive I want the driving lights on.

Been a while but it was just 2 diodes inserted in the bottom of the Fuse block, I should have taken pictures to document but it was so cold that I rushed through it to get her done. But this is what I did... Added diodes between H4 and K2 to C2 ( Cathode at C2 of course ) of connector 4 of the underhood fuse block. When it warms up I promise I will do a proper DIYfer for you guys.

Silicone the hell out of the inside or use goop for extra adhesion. You might need closer to 70°F if you want that double sided tape to stick good. Also make sure you wipe all grease and wax off before application. I find brake cleaner works good ( almost pure alcohol ).

I just did a repair on 2 Astro start FOBs for the nicest and easiest lady to talk with I ever met. Then her friend came over with a Pro Start.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/193898-fog-lights-on-with-low-beams/?hl=fog+lights+on+with+low+beam

I did mine so they come on when low beams are on or DRL. It's here somewhere as a thread. I'll look for it.

Today so far, sold and programmed a FOB for a 2007 Silverado Classic, then repaired a ( KBRASTU15 ) for an 04 Maxima, then repair a 2003 Silverado cluster with a rare problem. An actual component had failed. Replaced a glass diode and she fired right up. The guy was pretty happy that he didn't have to get a new one.

Not sure if you're a guy or girl but I guess you're not a very patient person then if you can't wait 1 minute for the ambient light sensor circuit to shut them off for you. Personally I find it works perfect the way it is. Meet to many non GM cars at dusk or later with no lights on. Daaaaaangerousssss in my opinion. Please don't take this personally I'm just observing here and just don't understand your need to pull out this spring in the switch. Let a sleeping lion sleep. I pray to GOD you don't hit a biker this summer because he didn't see your lights.

It's not a mod, he tried to change the stepper motors in his 2005 Sierra instrument panel. Watched a YouTube video and it looked simple enough. Simple if you have the skills. He's a lumberjack by trade, this was a little off his beaten path.

Just realised a post in which I posted a picture has an error in it as I was LEDing an HVAC panel for a member here. Post #14080 page 939 is too old for me to edit so I will post the correction here. If an admin could replace the same picture with this new one I'd appreciate it. I would make me look like I know what I'm talking about. Hope this is what he was aiming for...

If it was dark when you last used your truck they will be on when you start it even if it's daylight. There's a hysteresis timer and it takes a couple of minutes to switch. This is so they don't turn on and off when you hit a shadow area like an overpass.

This is a butcher job on the backplane of an instrument panel done by somebody who whatched a youtube video and all of a sudden thought he was an expert. This is what it's suppose to look like after you're done.

I got this one today from an other YouTuber DIYfer. Don't even know if I want to tackle this one....This hurts me too much! I'll save the lens and the needles.

Auto lights and DRLs are two different things.

Don't run on 7 too long you'll melt the cat.

Ground G218 maybe again showing up its gremlins.

Nope, the diff switch is just to light the LED in the cluster to tell you it is locked, you will need to probe it to see if it switches when differential locks into 4X4.

I have the GM TechII and you can't disable the DRLs, why would you want to anyway it's one of the best safety features ever put on a vehicle.