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About bowhunter8

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  1. Sounds good, thanks. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they said they hadn’t heard of a problem like I’m seeing. They took it for a driver and on hard acceleration they were able to get the temp to increase a bit and said it’s normal. Checked all fluid levels and they are normal I’m betting most people don’t realize their temp gauge increases a bit (10-15 degrees) during heavy acceleration or when towing up hills and so it hasn’t been brought up to my local dealer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks for the info. I do have the 6 speed, what are your thoughts on removing the inline thermostat and warranty? Warranty is the main reason I have a non modded Silverado Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Truck: 2019 (old body style), 5.3L, 4x4, 17,000 miles, towing and driving elevation:4000’-8500’ Trailer with Jeep: 5600lbs Recently bought a tandem axle flat trailer and a wrangler to off-road. While towing a few months ago, I would notice the coolant temp would go from just under 210 to the green arrow line under moderate to heavy acceleration. The temp would stop there and then reduce a bit and hold between the green arrow line and 210. Once I crest the hill or let up on the acceleration, temp would be back to normal. I chalked it up to towing and truck being under load and didn’t dig into it deeper. Now that’s its summer I’ve noticed the same thing happen when I’m not towing or hauling anything but am at freeway speeds under heavy acceleration or steep inclines. The coolant temp will do the same as the above. Coolant is full. Trans temp stays between 190-200 while towing and around 190 while not towing. Only thing I can think of is if the grill dampeners don’t open till I hit the green line and then once they do open and let a lot of air to the radiator, the temps reduces a bit and then all the way once the load on the truck is reduced. Then the grill dampeners close again and the cycle starts again on the next hill. I’ve tried serval times to get the temp gauge to go higher than the green line when the outside air was 85 degrees and I really laid into the accelerator while towing but temp wouldn’t get past the green line (steep incline for 1-2miles, 3500rmps-4000rmps, 5600lb trailer, AC on) Is this normal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Did you have to do the North Cal mod where you cut and trim to get them to fit? What size lift or level? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Good looking truck, I have a 19 LD z71 in cancun red. Did you replace your upper control arms when you installed the 2” level? I assume you have stamped steel UCAs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks, yeah I’ve spent many many hours of searching over the last few weeks but mainly was hoping people would post pictures like my original post that started this topic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Lol I was thinking the same thing, I appreciate the other posts but they don’t seem to be applicable to my question. I may end up doing the same.. I know Nitto has their ridge grapplers in a 275/65/18 which would only be 1/2” bigger than stock and would be XL rated so they shouldn’t hurt MPG much but should give me much better off road traction and puncture resistance vs the stock tires Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thank you for the post, but I was hoping to hear from people without a level kit (no spacers, no Bilstein, no aftermarket coil overs etc) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. After crunching the numbers of a level with Bilstein 5100s and readylift UCA plus install, I’m looking north of $1k. So I’m considering running a 32” AT or MT on my stock wheels, ordering the GM aluminum skid plate and calling it a day. My main purpose is just functionality when doing mild off-road, not necessarily looks. If you have larger than stock AT/MT tires on your 14+ can you post a picture and detail if/how much it rubs while off-roading? Please include the tire and wheel size Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. When I spoke with a tech at Bilstein earlier this week, he said they tested their 5100s with stock components including UCAs and there were no issues. He mentioned that they probably stuck with 1.8” as the highest because much higher could create problems with stock components (some of their 5100s for certain trucks go up to 2.5-2.75”) Trying to think through it logically, as long as the 5100 shock stops the downward travel I don’t think a ball joint could pop out of the stock UCA... but if the UCA contacting the bump stop is what’s stops the downward travel and the shock and weight of the tires/wheel is trying to push the wheel down further, I could see how the ball joint would be popped out (more like pulled out). Does that sound like sound reasoning? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Same here, but wondering if flares would look funny on a Silverado without a large lift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Interested in this too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Anyone install 5100s on the 1.8” setting and have any regrets? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. So a 1.8 bilstein lift will net me an additional 1.8” of ground cleaner in the front correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Thank you for the info. Why do you think there are people saying how the UCA can fail with a level? Readylift evens says GM says to not level because of the stamped steel arms Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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