bowhunter8

Meant to include your job in my above response Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t have the truck long before I had to remove the valance. So I don’t know if it has changed much but your logic sounds correct to me. If anything, because there are no holes in the valance, common sense makes one think that with the valance removed, more air would flow around the trans housing, motor and bottom of the radiator theoretically leading to cooler temps. I’m going to be towing a light weight camper this weekend (3000lbs) with a four wheeler in the bed and going up large grades so we will see if the coolant temp goes beyond 15 degrees. I doubt it will because in early July, I towed a Jeep on a trailer for 800 miles through the southwest in the desert heat and had the normal 15 ish degrees increase before the dampers would open and stabilize the coolant temp Towing the the Jeep, my trans temp rarely reached 200 degrees on the freeway/highway, mainly sat at 194-196. But get off the freeway/highway after towing for a while and do some stop and go and the trans will go up to 208/210 (95 degrees ambient temp) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know there is a law that states they have to prove it was the reason for a failure but don’t necessarily want to have to go through that if possible. I like the truck without it as far as appearances go Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My truck is having the typical varrying coolant temp during the hot months and when towing (gains about 15 degrees while under acceleration in the summer then the grille dampeners open and it cool back down to 210 degrees). I took it to the dealer to double check and they said it’s normal but they also noted that my lower valance was missing and said it may be because of that. I highly doubt it but I also don’t want to be liable for a damaged motor or cooling system if my truck was to actually over heat while still under warranty. Just don’t want to give the dealer any outs when it comes to warrantying my truck if needed (reason I don’t lift or modify my truck while under warranty) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been struggling to find them on eBay(the very bottom plastic 2” section is easy to find). What key words should I be using to search for the full valance? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup that’s it’s, the bottom plastic piece that is about 6-8” wide that is within the blue shape in the below picture Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone have one they took off or suggestions where I can pick on up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damaged min front air damn so looking for a new one. I took off all of the plastic air damn so now I just have the painted front bumper so I will need the whole plastic air damn The truck is a 2019 Z71 1500 but is the LD model so it’s the 2018 body style. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure the very end of the cable/crimp wasn’t essential to holding the tire up. I couldn’t recall if there was a knot at the end of the cable or if the crimp was crimped at the very end where the road ate it away Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had to swap my spare tire due to a slow leak I had in one of my OE tires. Being in a hurry I totally forgot to crank up the spare tire cable and I drug it on the highway for a few miles before I noticed it. Once I got home I got under there and and pulled on it with about half my body weight and everything seems still good. What’s your guys thoughts on the ground down end of the cable? Is there usually a knot in the cable at the end? Would you think it’s safe to put the tire back on it? Or do I need to replace it? Truck is a 2019 but the 2018 body style Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds good, thanks. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they said they hadn’t heard of a problem like I’m seeing. They took it for a driver and on hard acceleration they were able to get the temp to increase a bit and said it’s normal. Checked all fluid levels and they are normal I’m betting most people don’t realize their temp gauge increases a bit (10-15 degrees) during heavy acceleration or when towing up hills and so it hasn’t been brought up to my local dealer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. I do have the 6 speed, what are your thoughts on removing the inline thermostat and warranty? Warranty is the main reason I have a non modded Silverado Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Truck: 2019 (old body style), 5.3L, 4x4, 17,000 miles, towing and driving elevation:4000’-8500’ Trailer with Jeep: 5600lbs Recently bought a tandem axle flat trailer and a wrangler to off-road. While towing a few months ago, I would notice the coolant temp would go from just under 210 to the green arrow line under moderate to heavy acceleration. The temp would stop there and then reduce a bit and hold between the green arrow line and 210. Once I crest the hill or let up on the acceleration, temp would be back to normal. I chalked it up to towing and truck being under load and didn’t dig into it deeper. Now that’s its summer I’ve noticed the same thing happen when I’m not towing or hauling anything but am at freeway speeds under heavy acceleration or steep inclines. The coolant temp will do the same as the above. Coolant is full. Trans temp stays between 190-200 while towing and around 190 while not towing. Only thing I can think of is if the grill dampeners don’t open till I hit the green line and then once they do open and let a lot of air to the radiator, the temps reduces a bit and then all the way once the load on the truck is reduced. Then the grill dampeners close again and the cycle starts again on the next hill. I’ve tried serval times to get the temp gauge to go higher than the green line when the outside air was 85 degrees and I really laid into the accelerator while towing but temp wouldn’t get past the green line (steep incline for 1-2miles, 3500rmps-4000rmps, 5600lb trailer, AC on) Is this normal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I spoke with a tech at Bilstein earlier this week, he said they tested their 5100s with stock components including UCAs and there were no issues. He mentioned that they probably stuck with 1.8” as the highest because much higher could create problems with stock components (some of their 5100s for certain trucks go up to 2.5-2.75”) Trying to think through it logically, as long as the 5100 shock stops the downward travel I don’t think a ball joint could pop out of the stock UCA... but if the UCA contacting the bump stop is what’s stops the downward travel and the shock and weight of the tires/wheel is trying to push the wheel down further, I could see how the ball joint would be popped out (more like pulled out). Does that sound like sound reasoning? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone install 5100s on the 1.8” setting and have any regrets? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk