SWOYER

I'll see if I can snap something. But in reference to to the XB's, the beam pattern and amount of light on those was just not what I was expecting out of a fog light. I think the SS3 is the better choice regardless of color, with the amber probably being a little more useful. I like that they basically pickup where my HID's let off, so seeing deer approaching from a field etc has been greatly approved. On a side note, haven't done enough testing to see if the beam pattern is obnoxious to other drivers yet... no one flashed me when I left them on but i'm sure they're blinding so I don't usually run them unless on dark roads.

I used a panel to keep everything clean. Metra 99-3014G

2014 GMC sierra SLT non-Bose sound quality build This venture started out by simply wanting to add carplay to my truck and upgrade the speakers for some better overall sound quality. Because the stock navigation is absolute trash and I primarily use google maps on my other vehicle this was the most important consideration. I investigated the stock integration route of upgrading to a 2016 HMI but in the end I couldn’t justify the cost, in my case I would have to sell my Denali cluster and get a 2016 one to make everything work properly. The overall cost of remaining stock would be on par with a high-end aftermarket unit. Granted it’s a bit big, and I don’t NEED half the features, I still liked the overall design and felt like I was getting significantly more for my money. One of the key features that you can’t get on a lot of upgrades at this time is wireless Andriod Auto / Carplay, you don’t need to plug it in to access these features. This will be beneficial with the wireless charging center console. Head Unit Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX 10” Head Unit Front Speakers Focal Flax Evo PS165F3E – 3-way component speaker set (passive) Rear Speakers Focal Flax Evo PC165FE – 2-way coaxial speaker set Subwoofer JL Audio Console stealthbox enclosure with 1 10” tw1 subwoofer Amplifiers JL Audio RD900/5 – Powering front components bridged and subwoofer Audiocontrol ACM-2.300 – Powering rear coaxial speakers only Wiring Stinger SK6641 4GA Complete wiring kit Stinger/Knukonceptz 16 awg wiring for speakers, Knukonceptz 12 awg wire for sub Stinger Midi Style Shoc-Krome fuses – 80 amp for JL RD900/5 and 35 amp for ACM-2.300 KnuKonceptz Bassik 4 way to 4 gauge to 4 gauge distribution blocks for power and ground Stinger 8000 interconnects 12’ – 6 channels MISCELLANIOUS Stinger Professional Sound Dampening roll Home made blown pvc Amp rack for behind rear seats Micro HDMI Male to HDMI type A female adapter AX-GMUSBAUX-6 AXXESS / 2014 - UP GM USB HUB KNOCKOUT REPLACEMENT w/ 6 FT CABLE

I have 3 usbs in the lower dash, untouched and fully functional. I have the adapter in the console and I think only one of the usb's is hooked up because the head unit only has one pre-out and I didn't want to try to get an adapter to the stock usb wiring at the time. I'm sure it's possible, but I just leave the one in there for wired carplay (when needed) and the other ones dead. The HDMI cabe on the head unit is a mini HDMI and it's near the top, so you'll need an adapter or a cable that adapts it. The problem being stresses on the cable when putting it in cause the mini hdmi to bend or break almost immediately. Just need a tougher cable or a way to install it so there isn't much stress on that cable. I was in a bit of a rush because I was moving so I hadn't hammered that one out yet and needed to get it back in.

I didn't mess with the dash usbs, I abandoned the one in the console and bought and adapter ( AX-GMUSBAUX-6 AXXESS / 2014 - UP GM USB HUB KNOCKOUT REPLACEMENT w/ 6 FT CABLE ) and ran a cable directly to the head unit. The only issue i'm having now is that I keep snapping cheap mini HDMI cables because everything fits so tightly in the dash. Also, when you go to cut the dash... BE CAREFUL you don't hit any stray wires with the cutting tool. I used a milwaukee dremel style tool and reached around where I could to make sure there was enough clearance that I wouldn't hit anything. Obviously, that would be catastrophic.

Ended up doing the Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX 10" head unit with full JL / Focal system Very happy with how everything turned out. I installed new wiring throughout, just ran them over the top of the molex connector there was enough space to squeeze them in and then through the boot to the door. The sound is impressive but I'm sure bigger subs would sound better if that's your cup of tea. This has enough power to shake all the mirrors and retains space in the back, plenty of sound quality.

Diode Dynamics SS3 pro Foglights Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX 10" head unit with full JL / Focal system Beam pattern and brightness blows the morimoto's out of the water, really fills in the ditch blind spots left by the projector retrofit. Easy install under ~30min. My only gripe is that they stick out of the bumper by about an inch, it used to REALLY bother me but now it doesn't really bother me much. I assume this is either lazy engineering or intentional to keep the heatsink fed with airflow. HID's only HID's + Fogs Fogs mounted Pioneer head unit

Mines starting to rust pretty good but i guess when it gets bad enough I'll just trade it in and move on. They def did a shitty job with the frame undercoating on these trucks.

To keep all that stuff you have to put in a meastro or pac unit. I chose the meastro. With the appropriate harness, gm3, it ties into all the factory functions. The only thing I don’t like is the obd2 plug because I’m already using that for my power steps but they do sell y adapters. But everything else is appropriately wired to “T” into existing wiring to grab the signal or a direct plug in. The older units are verry laggy and slow but some of these newer units are quite snappy. I suggest trying to get a capacitive touch screen like the pioneer or others, they use a screen much like modern day cell phones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I finally got in there to see what had to be done, I'm sorry I've been so busy with work that the trucks been sitting in pieces for over a month. A formal write up of the overall upgrades will be coming. The simple answer is yes, the dash had to be cut, even with a single din unit as the DMH-8600NET. However, the amount that needed to be cut was significantly less than a full two din radio. I used the included storage pocket that required some light trimming on the upper piece which is ultimately more difficult and bigger to trim. The two lower pieces were pretty easy to cut and snap out. Also, since 75% of the top shelf was retained it made a nice little shelf for the Onstar unit, instead of squeezing it into the bottom as Meastro recommends. I put some foam around it to keep it from rattling but in general it was a great fit. If you don't use the pocket I think you only needed to trim the bottom two tabs. I used a mini torch and a razor blade, heated the blade to red hot and it cuts right into the plastic cleanly. I used a Milwaukee dremel tool with a cutoff wheel where possible, and to make several progress cuts to make it easier as I went further towards the firewall. I can't stress this enough, if you decide to use a dremel, BE CAREFUL cutting past the walls on the left and right sides as there are wires behind it and if you go too far you're gonna have a real bad day. I was somewhat reckless since I didn't know they were back there, but I did have an "oh sh*t" moment when i was able to feel them. Any of the shallow chassis units should fit without cutting such as the Alpine. Pioneer makes one also. Or if you don't use the double din pocket with a single din it should slide in there tightly)

They should be mid-range speakers, not tweeters. I can check when I am able to replace mine, i'm running new wires to focal flax 3-ways. Hopefully this weekend.

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Well... I removed my morimoto XB fog lights and installed my ss3 setup. While the lights are definitely superior to the morimotos the fitment is lackluster. About an inch of excess from the brackets. There’s room to slide the light further into the bracket but because the light is so big it won’t clear the oem mounting locations unfortunately. So now I need to decide how I’m gonna make this look better. I think diode dynamics should have made up a new trim ring especially for the $350 price tag, that’s the quickest solution. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The black panel in front of the sound deadening is a Blown PVC sheet that I ordered off ebay. It came 24"x48" but I ripped it down to 13"x48" on a table saw. I plan to use double sided 3M VHB tape on the high parts of the back wall and i'm also going to make some brackets out of an HDPE sheet i ordered. If your taping directly to the wall you'd probably be fine but because so much noise comes through I sound deadened the rear wall and the tape is just to provide some attachment, since its relying on the butyl glue from the deadener. The plastic brackets I cut down to 2" strips that I'll heat with a torch and bend, then drill to grab a seat belt bracket. On the top i'm going to put some nutserts into a portion of the back wall that has a void behind it. I've read of people using 3M 5200 caulk to attach the board, but I would stick with the VHB tape and if you want to make brackets go for it. I don't know that you need the brackets but it makes me feel better. I bought a stinger kit for the cables since their cable is good and very flexible. From the battery it's 6'wide, 3' down to the floor, 7' back to the amp along the drivers side and about a 1' to get to the distribution block i'm using. That's for a double cab. if your in a crew you might need a little more. I came up with a need for roughly 15' and the cable in the kit is 18'. I'm only using a 4ga wire so I plan to run it up the drivers side wire channel under the plastics going through the firewall at the main harness grommet, which is a pain only because you have to remove the interior fuse block which is located in a really dumb spot. It's only 3 bolts, but it's annoying. I couldn't find anywhere else to come in that didn't require drilling a hole.

Started building my behind the seat amp rack and sound deadening the rear panel and floor. This has turned into quite the project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I did the diode dynamics switchback boards on my headlights. I had some issues with the headlights where water was getting in from my previous retrofit to the headlamps. Pulled everything apart and it was just as much of a pain in the ass as you’d think it would be. Don’t be afraid to heat those headlights up. If they’re cool to the touch it’s not hot enough to break the permaseal bond. I did 270 degrees for 10 mins repeatedly. If you want to do a longer time lower the temp considerably

I would not buy the junk from headlight experts posted above. I would buy the diode dynamics bulbs. Putting led's into projector housings is generally a bad idea because most LEDs are not designed for that type of housing, they're often cheap sales gimmicky products that won't give you a good result. It doesn't matter how bright the light is if you are spraying it everywhere but the road. And Led's are okay, but I prefer a good HID retrofit to led light, maybe in the future LED's will catch up

Ahh ok you have the crew cab. I have a double cab, so the twins under the rear seat weren't an attractive option for me because they don't have the cutout for an amp and they were about twice the price. I think the one tw1 will be plenty loud for me under the console, i'm more interested in sound quality than volume. I'm jealous that the box you bought comes with tw3's though, they're supposed to be really loud and good sound quality. The one for the console only has the air volume for a tw1. Well, I haven't installed it yet because they aren't shipping until mid may. I am prepared to cut it if necessary it didn't seem to be that big of an issue. It's a single din unit, so it's possible that it could be installed without cutting by adjusting the location, i'd have to look once I get the metra panel and see where the two dins fall. I intend to keep the truck until it dies so I'm not worried about ever going back to stock, have too much invested in it to get a new one. They do have an alternative 9" option where the screen installs into a double din and the "computer" is on a cord so you could probably tuck that into the void. They call it a "modular" unit.

That 2000 price tag was too much for me on the i209. I was able to put a package together with Sonic Electronix that brought the 8600 down to 1000. The fact that they can be adjusted in every direction at install, I figure i'll be able to center it up to look as factory as possible. The i209 is a nice setup though, its essentially the same thing just recessed a little more. The only thing I hate is the clear acrylic buttons Alpine insists on using, but just personal preference. I also decided to order a Audiocontrol ACM-2.300 just to push the rear coaxials and I'll bridge the JL rd900/5 just to run the 3 ways up front. I wasn't thinking about the power split as closely as I should have when picking out the amp. Which stealthbox did you get?

That's a bummer, the reviews on these are supposed to be really good. I just ordered one hopefully they paid a little more attention to the construction in this one. To answer the original question, it depends what you want. 200-500 isn't alot of cash in the stereo upgrade world. I personally think the bose isn't really all that great, it's a mass produced oem system. If you want good sound you should consider a Line output converter LOC, an amp, speakers and if you want bass you'll need to factor all of that in. I'm still waiting on my head unit but I'm doing a full sound quality upgrade on my truck using Focal speakers, JL amp, stealthbox and a new 10" pioneer head unit. The price on that build is just over 4k for parts so far.