I have all my gear picked out now I have to figure out how to add the amp without cutting any wires. Is there any plug an play harness that allows you to bypass only what is needed from the factory bose amp. I'm having a hard time finding this. I dont mind using a pigtail of sorts I just do not want to cut any factory harness.
Do you know how many channels I would need for a amp/processor to add a sub and power the 4 door speakers and the tweets in the dash? Not sure if the tweets are on the same channel as the front doors or if theny need their own?
I'm not looking anything crazy. Now im thinking about just replacing factor speakers and doing a small amp and building a box with a 8 inch sub to fit inside center console.i think I can purchase all speakers and sub for under $500. Not sure of what amp and possibly processor I would need at the moment. But I do know I want to be able to use the factory speaker wiring and hook into behind the rear seat.
Do you recall how tight the fit was under the console? Now I'm thinking about buying an 8inch and building a box for that location. Doing a smaller amp for all speakers and sub. So I'm guessing I would have to buy a harness to bypass the bose amp? I would then want to add a processor and small amp behind the rear seat to keep everything hidden. Do you know if this would work? Never done a audio system before so alot to learn. I would keep the door speakers to a max 60rms or so, so I can reuse favtore wiring from the bose amp location is what I hope for.
I prefer to keep the space under the rear seat. I could go middle console if I can keep the factory radio and clean up other speakers
Do you recall the rough cost of doing this?
I have a 16 crew cab high country with the factory bose speakers and want to clean up the sound as best as possible without changing head unit. Look for recommendations from people that have done upgrades. I know kicker makes a base upgrade but I'm looking at door and dash speaker upgrades. What di you install and do you think its work 250-500 dollars?
What's your thoughts on this. I talked to a dealer about doing the update(cost150). They said there is no way to tell if the update is already there. They can try it to see if it works but will coast the 150 anyway. I find it hard to believe there is no way to tell if the update has been done or not?
Just car play. From everything you have walked me through im thinking it just needs an update
Also I should add. The fuse slot 27 calls for a 10A on my truck but has a 15A in place. Any chance only a circuit dealing with projection could have been cooked?
So I do have the 2.5 HMI. I swapped back in the factor 2 port usb hub and it will actually charge my phone now. (Samsung note 9). HMI still ask for a supported device to be connected. Does it just need an update?
Just popped off the lowe glove box but I dont even think I could fit my hand through that opening
I will swap back in the 2 port configuration and try to get into the dash later this week to see what HMI I have, hoping I can get my phone camera in there to snap a picture so I do not have to remove it completely. Sounds like you are saying that the 2 ports inside the center console should connect to Android auto also?? I did receive my build sheet from GM. it has a build date of 01/27/2016 and under the option codes I see: "IO6-Chevorlet mylink audio system W/8" diagonal color touch and navigation" if it turns out I do have the 2.0 what am I looking at roughly to swap to the 2.5. is it just the cost of the $100 retro fit module you linked + the cost to reprogram or am I looking at more than that? Thanks,
There are 2 ports inside the console compartment. They will charge a phone but do not connect to CP/AA. The 2 below the dash will not even charge a phone even with the 3 port configuration installed. Chevorlet says they cannot provide a window sticker but can give me a build sheet which I'm waiting on. I did purchase a window sticker from some site and it looks pretty accurate and I did not see a -200 credit anywhere on it.
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