SWOYER

Ebay seems to be a good route for most, but there's always the risk of getting screwed. I took a gamble on one labeled as a sierra cluster, but the part number and vehicle fitment was for a denali. It came and it was from a denali. The cluster was like, really dirty, I was a little skeptical that chris would say it didn't work or something (always my luck). But, says shipped so hopefully all is well. If you hunt, you can find them. Also Yukons for the same year work, just confirm with chris if you are concerned. I found my cluster for $100, but it seems the going rate is around $200. The only thing I can't seem to find is another lens. I guess I'll have to carefully take off my old one. I dont think they sell the lens seperate, but I could be mistaken. if anyone has that part number please share!!

Thanks!

Chris can you please give me an update on my cluster I'm just trying to make sure you got it and estimated turn around. Emailed you figuring you'd get back to me or sat but haven't heard anything. Last name is username. Thx. Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

Considering that they probably both use junk projectors, yes. It's like having a spotlight vs a flood light. You'd need a WAYYY bigger flood light since the light isn't focused. Not to mention you'd be one of those people just blinding the shit out of every car you passed. Not even for an actual gain. .02

I think we are the same person. Best price I've seen is Moore Tech Racing and they also are pretty close to the Bilstein launch on the 6112. I just don't know if I can justify the added cost for the 6112, I think the 5100 is fine for my needs I dunno.

lol, you skipped over the.. most of that light won't even hit the road in the wrong projector part. I would imagine those are designed for halogen bulbs and that's what you should use. PIAA bulbs or phillips are pretty bright. LED kits are a TOTAL waste of money, and I think even an HID in that projector may or may not work well. Think about it before you waste your money on an HID kit.

Those do look pretty cool. How are they from a performance standpoint? What does the included projector cutoff look like? I assume they are designed for halogens so throwing an HID kit in there would likely illuminate the road worse throwing light all over the place instead of focusing it. Are the projectors screwed in?

ok good. It's weird because depending on where the headlights are hitting those cutoffs are like straight, angled, makes your head go loopy trying to make sure if you did it right lol. Also, I'd say the pics are a little brighter than real life, camera must have adjusted. Thats more what a 55w ballast probably looks like. But still bright.

Here's some photos I snapped. Do they look slightly wide to anyone else? The left headlight kind of trails off before the right projector overlaps. Maybe that's how it is supposed to be? Also got a bunch of dust in there I guess from working in the old man's shop. Now I guess it's just stuck in there lol? Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

I just did my retrofit yesterday, and wow what a difference! I used the FastHeadlights 2014-17 GMC Sierra Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 Kit with Hylux Ballasts. 5000k Bulbs. 35w Ballasts. http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=buy_d2s4_sierra_kit_hylux Here is what I learned and advise based on my own experience. 1. Allocate about 8 hours to do this, it might not take you that long but it could. If you are taking your time or run into the smallest of hiccups, you will use a lot of time. 2. Upper bumper removal (plastic). Take your time! Don't go yanking on it.. Work it from the outsides and top to get the outsides loose, do both sides, then when your releasing the tabs from under the bumper have someone else hold it and guide it out slowly. I broke two black tabs off, one on each side.. I don't know where they were but when I reinstalled it there is a small gap between the fender, this piece and the headlight, It's not totally noticeable but I assume that's where it was. 3. The fastheadlight kit brackets are very nice and bolted right up, but I found that in my particular instance one of the projectors was a tight fit matching up to the headlight via the bracket holes. I've narrowed down the possible causes to the following; 1. The screws need to go in perfectly straight, if you are off angle at all then you will exaggerate any misalignment issues with the projector mount. 2. I used the next size up drill bit on the holes to open up the holes slightly, the threads still grabbed even though they don't need to. But, I believe this helped ease the installation even if it was just mental. 4. The plugs that are on the harness from morimoto are too wide to fit into their own provided connector let alone the harness for the headlight. You can either shave them down to fit, or cut them off and put smaller ones on. I cut them off, threw out the loose packed adapter and plugged directly into the headlight harness and wrapped everything up tight with electrical tape. I was worried if that connection ever came loose I would have to pull the bumper and everything again, but the wiring is loose in the headlight housing and there is enough slack that I can pull it out the back and set/tape them if they ever work loose. But I doubt they will. 5. Pulling the bumper, grill and lights looks terrifying, but it's really not that bad. Now that I've done it once I feel like I could easily do it again. Take your time and follow the guide and your fine. 6. The hylux ballasts are cheaper than the morimoto, but, that doesn't mean there is any less quality. I found that the ballast performs well, it does have a slight buzz to it, but heat up time is acceptable. It's not the fastest, but it's not bad either. This is the amount of time it takes to reach full power from when the light is turned on. If you have the chance, you should consider the 45w version over the 35w. The 35w is very bright, but its not the same as a 55w. And while the 55w is very very bright, I think the 45w might be a good sweet spot. 7. When cutting open the backs of the headlight housing, you may be tempted to use a dremel. Per the recommendation from fastheadlights, I found that using a box cutter heated with a torch to be far more effective and it didn't blow all kinds of debris into my headlight housing. BE CAREFUL OF THE WIRES INSIDE when your cutting, both the headlight harness and the shutter wires are close, but you can reach in and pull them away with one hand while you cut with the other. You hit those wires and you're going to create a lot more work for yourself. Also, use a junk knife, heating it with a torch will ruin it. All in all, I am very happy with the install and the ease this retrofit provides as compared to others I have done in the past. The GMC headlights are very easy to work with and the end result is amazing compared to the junk stock setup. If you are worried if you can do it, take your time, do your research and you'll be fine. Just give yourself enough time. Big thanks to FASTHEADLIGHTS for the customer support and for figuring this stuff out in advance. Will post pics of the process tonight when I adjust the headlights. (also very easy)

Thanks I picked up one that goes into the top of a quart of ATF. Gonna use the mobil one ATF, seems like they were all recommended about the same.

Thanks for the tip.

Ok thanks, maybe I'll do that this week then.

Do you need to replace the transfer case bolt when you change the fluid? I read online that it needs to be replaced or it could snap off.

Random question... I can't seem to find the part number for a new lens for my cluster, does anyone know where you can get a new 14-17 cluster lens or am I going to have to do some polishing?

So, riding on stock ranchos.. This thread is saying 5100's are a major improvement but if I can wait for the 6112 to get those instead? Any idea when they will be available? I'd like to do a level kit, fine with a 1-2" all around but not really looking for a lift. any input? Thanks!

I just want to put this out there for reference, because if you're like me you're always interested in spending more money up front on a quality product than to have issues later down the road. I will be going with the morimoto 4.0 setup from fastheadlights, but here are two videos that really show the quality and the differences for these and the rx350's which are considered some of the best retrofit projectors on the market. I think the pattern on the 4.0 is nicer and wider for me, and subsequent I will get going that route. Also, they are much cheaper. Also, phil, any issues with the thread-mounting mentioned in the second video? I assume we have a higher install height and plenty of adjustment. Just asking the pro!. Thanks Installed on a tundra for reference... Man they are pretty!

Haven't had a chance to do the CRC yet, but I'm gonna do it soon, hear good things. I think the VW guys have it the worst with the GDI engines, and I assume our problems will be similar even if slower

This feature is awesome, whatever it takes, put it in. And for those that say it's "too hot".... you know you can hit a button, literally next to your thumb, to turn it off.

2014 is weird because it's really a 14.5, so people might be labeling those 2015. Seems like it's going to be pretty hard to get a 14. Am I incorrect in this assumption? Would a 2015 work since the 14/15 are basically the same year.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23212583-Instrument-Cluster-Speedometer-12-Color-Display-2015-Cadillac-Escalade-/232339247014?hash=item36187f8fa6:g:EAgAAOSwKytZHHQ0&vxp=mtr should be possible right?!!

Great price, it's from a yukon.. does it matter? Also, are 14/15 clusters interchangeable since it's really 2014.5 and 2015?

I'm having a hard time locating the part numbers for the Original Denali style steering wheel trim for a 2014. Also, the thin trim around the radio controls. I'm changing out my interior from silver to burnish and these are the last two pieces I need, just need to find the part numbers. Seems like these are hard to come by on ebay.

Nevermind, I think I'm gonna try the 4.0's, the rx is kinda pricey for the little advantage... Any discounts out there on those?

Fair enough, I was quick to judge. I guess on the other side, pulling out the code and hoping you get it right when you try to start the truck. Maybe it's just worth the money. lol