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Davidj101

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Everything posted by Davidj101

  1. I'm having the same issue as the OP. It's been doing it for a while, but I've put up with it. Now it's getting worse. Guess it's time for a new system.
  2. And if I remember correctly Phil has a contact for the OEM mirrors at a good price and has the switch and makes the harnesses so it's kinda a one stop shop if you get them through him. Oh and you'll be helping a guy that's helped a ton of us.
  3. Personal opinion here. I had DL8 mirrors and talked the dealer into tow mirrors without power fold. If I had it to do over again I would definitely get the mirrors with power fold. Even if I had to pay for them. Is it a big deal, no, but to me it would be worth it to have them. And if you're buying the mirrors and harnesses anyway go ahead and spend the little extra to get the power fold mirrors.
  4. Shhh, but If you slip the truck into neutral the lights will work.
  5. The factory prep package can't be added aftermarket. At least not that I can ascertain. Which hitch do you currently have? I have a gooseneck rail adapter for the Curt EZ-Lockr and it worked well with the Curt roller and A16. I don't use it anymore because I changed the hitch to an Andersen Ultimate aluminum hitch. If you're set on the turnover ball I'd suggest installing that in your truck and using the rail adapter you linked above.
  6. Thanks for posting this Phil. I was about to order a set of tow mirrors form 1A, but I'll wait to see if this is resolved and if it isn't pretty quickly, I'll go with OEM DPN mirrors.
  7. Does the original sales order list the mirror upgrade specifically as DQS or power folding tow mirrors? If so, then they have the obligation to provide them. If so, then I'd demand that the dealership have the parts department purchase the mirrors and either hand them to me or have them installed. I'm not sure who ADI is or why they're involved. I assume that they're a third party installer contracted by the dealership to perform sales addons. I bet they ordered the wrong mirrors and now don't want to be stuck with them.
  8. 2) If you've already made the deal on the DQS mirrors, they should provide them and not charge you any more. I still think you're way better off having them physically install the DQS mirrors that they promised and give you the harnesses. It's really easy to remove the door panels and swap the harnesses. Watch Phil's video a few times and follow it and you won't have any problems and I promise you won't break anything. Pick up a set of trim tools from a local auto parts store.
  9. I also notice that Sirius drops a lot more in my Sierra than it does in the dw's Acadia or than it did in the Ram. It's definitely a radio issue and not a satellite service issue. I don't think these systems buffer the signal like others do, so they drop immediately upon losing signal.
  10. I'll be putting mine in the mail tomorrow. We all need to be sure to send the harnesses back. Even people who have had the dealers change them. You should have gotten the original harnesses back and it would do people in the future a good turn if you would send them to Phil. I'm sure he'd appreciate it.
  11. I do have bed lights and that just adds to it. I used a 1N5408 diode, which is a 3 amp diode, but it has slightly smaller diameter legs compared to the 1N4004 (1.3mm to 2.3mm) which makes it easier to insert beside the crimped connector. It stays in place well. I ordered 20 of them and I'm going to keep an extra, so I have 18 that I'd be willing to send anyone that needs them. Just PM me your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you. Free of charge!
  12. I'm sure you already have it back together, but for future reference. Make sure you have the cam lock handle at least 90º to the connector body. A little more is better. Then you shouldn't have to force the connectors together. Once you have them lined up, they should start together and then the cam-lock will mate them correctly. It is a little bit of a pain getting the halves lined up correctly so that they slide together.
  13. Just did this mod yesterday, and it is awesome. I wondered if having the upper cargo lamps on would reflect too much light when reversing, but they don't at all. And those combined with the mirror lights, increase camera visibility immensely.
  14. I'm glad Phil posted the video. The top panel removal is at about 4:55 in the video. I pulled mine off exactly like he shows in the video and it came off easily.
  15. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures during the change out, but there's no way I could improve on the install pictures and videos you've put together. Here some pictures of the finished product. And here's the reason for the mirrors.
  16. Now I'd like to shamelessly plug Phil's harnesses. If you're thinking about buying the harnesses, I would suggest buying them from Phil even if factory harnesses are available for your truck and mirror combination. He's done an amazing amount of work and research on the wiring and has also done an amazing amount of figuring out how to upgrade mirrors that the factory says can't be done. He also spends time helping people in figuring out how to make their upgrade work on their vehicles. Even if his harnesses cost a little more, it's worth every penny because of the research and help he's provided. And all in all, once you ship him your harnesses, the difference isn't much at all. Even at his full price, I'd still order them from him (which I did). And no, I am in no way affiliated with Phil and had never heard of him until I found this thread. And boy am I glad I did. I now have lighty uppy mirrors because of him!
  17. I watched the video posted above and it's basically the same as Phil's except Phil suggests a different way of removing the top of the door panel, which is a much better way of removing it. IMO.
  18. Now for a couple of observations I made while doing the change. 1) When removing the weather flap from inside the door, you need to pull it up to where the door release cable go through it. 2) I used tape to hold the flap up out of the way while working on the harness. 3) Be sure to reconnect the door release cable before you put the panel back on! 4) Use a magnet to remove the screw under the lock/window switches before removing the panel. It just makes it easier than chasing the screw once it falls out of the panel. 5) You don't have to completely remove the nut from the airbag sensor. It's in a keyhole slot, so all you need to do is loosen it enough to slip the sensor and screw out of the slot. 6) Be sure to reset the safety catches in the airbag sensor and X510 connector. 7) Make sure to route the new harness between the door frame and window framing and not inside the window framing.
  19. I followed the tracking number and knew they were to be delivered today so I got up this morning and went ahead and removed the door panels and the drivers side harness. I was a little apprehensive about removing the replacing the harnesses, but once i got into it, it was really easy. It took me a total of 5 minutes each to remove the door panels. I bought a plastic trim removal tool kit so as not to damage the panels or trim. The most useful one was the flat pry bar shaped one. After watching the videos and reading the posts in this thread, I disconnected the cabin connector (X500) first, so as to not chance blowing a fuse. Phil points out all the screws in the door panel and demonstrates how to remove the trim and panel very well. I removed the trim piece using the trim tool, prying from the bottom just like he shows and then removed the six(6) screws. I then pried the panel loose with the tool like he showed. It was easier than I thought it would be. The first thing you have to unhook from the door panel is the door handle release cable. His video shows how to remove it. I found it easiest to remove if you sit the bottom panel clips in their holes and place your knee against the panel while you disconnect the door release. The next thing you'll need to disconnect is the control connector (X510). I sat the door panel on the door sill and held it in place with one elbow while I released the safety catch and then released the lever handle. The lever handle is a pretty tight fit but once you have the safety catch pulled down, it'll open up with a little force. Once the lever is at 90º to the connector, the connector will unplug pretty easily. And that frees the door panel. The next thing to unhook is the speaker and it's wiring. There's a wire clip on the speaker shell that needs to be removed. I used the claw shaped trim removal tool to remove all the harness clips so I wouldn't break one off. My biggest apprehension was removing the harness from between the door shell and the window framing. That turned out to be a non-issue. There's a wide part between the door shell and the window framing and the plugs will pass right between them without any prying.
  20. For anybody thinking of changing the harnesses and mirrors, but hesitating because you're not sure about removing the door panels and changing the harnesses. Just order the harnesses from Phil (pgamboa) and do it. It's very doable even if you have minimal experience. Phil has done an amazing job of making the harnesses, an an equally amazing job of videoing the process of removing the door panels and replacing the harnesses. I highly applaud him in is effort and supported him by ordering the harnesses he produces. While I have experience in electrical and electronics, I have never replaced the harnesses in newer vehicles, nor have i removed the door panels on newer vehicles. I have to say that I was pretty apprehensive about it all. However after watching the videos Phil made and reading about all the people that he has helped, I just bit the bullet and ordered Phil's harnesses. I ordered them on Tuesday and received them this morning. That's great service.
  21. Bought a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE with power and heated mirrors. Got the dealer to throw in a few things, one of which is tow mirrors. They installed the model with power glass, heated, turn signals, clearance and cargo lights; but of course didn't install the harnesses to get the lights to work. So now they're just power glass and heated. So, I went looking for a way to get the lights to work and finally ran across this awesome thread which looks like the perfect answer. This is awesome if it's as simple as installing a couple of harnesses. I'll definitely PMing pgamboa to get a set of harnesses if they'll work to get the lights on the mirror to work.
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