Western96

The AFM lifters in my truck failed earlier this year with only 60,000 miles on the truck. 3 months and around $5k later, I got the truck back from the dealer. Now, about a month or so later, it has started having even worse engine problems. The truck shakes a lot at low RPM and the idle is much lower than normal. Got a flashing check engine light a few days after it started happening so i can’t drive it any more. I got a code P0300 - multiple misfires and P050D - low idle. Any idea if this could be related to the dealer doing shoddy work with the lifter job? It seems like there can be many reasons for a P0300 code and some of them could be related to the lifter work.

I took it into the dealer to get repaired. I've done a lot of repairs to my truck myself, including both of the wheel bearing hubs in the front. I think fixing a lifter problem is a little bit above my skill level though, plus I can't even reach the back of the valve cover when standing on the ground. Kind of ridiculous how tall this truck is, I am 6' tall and I still couldn't work on the engine bay of this thing without a step stool.

I listened to a few things around the engine bay with a mechanic stethoscope and it definitely sounds like it is coming from the rear half of the driver-side valve cover. Was easy to hear even with the plastic valve cover still on.

Thanks, I will try the mechanics stethoscope and see if I hear anything. The ticking sound is pretty loud when I open the hood and very easy to hear.

My 2017 Silverado started making a faint ticking sound that increases in frequency as RPM increases. I know it is from the engine and not the transmission or suspension because it will do this sitting still in neutral. My oil level and pressure are both in the normal range. Any ideas what this could be? I am worried it is the dreaded lifter failure, which would be not great. My truck only has 61k miles. Any tips on diagnosing what this is? Is it safe to drive while this is happening? It seems like some people have driven quite a long time with this issue and have been ok, so I'm not that worried about it. Will I cause more damage if it is a lifter problem?

My truck has 58k miles on it and I already have hard shifts pretty frequently with the 6L80. The torque converter swap is not something I'm capable of doing in my apartment parking space, but I do want to attempt some of these other recommendations. Already changed the fluid early this year which didn't seem to have a major effect.

My 2017 LT Z71 has one of these pieces. I hate the thing, I'd be willing to sell it if you want one.

My truck has completely stock suspension and I had to replace both wheel bearings by 51,000 miles. Got one replaced at a shop and then the other one went bad almost immediately afterwards. Getting it done at a shop was probably $700 or so. I did the second one myself, took me a couple hours but the part cost less than $200.

I drove around with 4WD on in twisty country roads for about 10 miles. Didn't seem to damage anything. I had a bad wheel bearing afterwards but I think that was from off-roading on a rocky trail earlier in the day (the reason I was in 4WD in the first place). I replaced the transfer case fluid and both differentials' fluid after for some peace of mind.

I guess it could be the other front wheel bearing, but this sounds way different than the other one when it went bad. Might be able to jack it up with the spare tire jack and see if the right hand wheel has a lot of play in it.

I am struggling to identify a problem with my truck. It has a speed dependent rhythmic vibration (through the pedal/floor) and noise that gets worse as speed increases. The noise is not particularly loud but it is noticeable especially at higher speeds (40+ mph). It also gets worse when turning left or right. Even when going slowly (20-30 mph), the noise does not go away, but it just becomes much less noticeable and extends the pulse over a longer period of time. At parking lot speeds, I don't think I hear anything. I recently replaced one of the front wheel bearings. That was pretty easy to diagnose, this seems a lot more difficult to figure out. I believe this is some sort of suspension problem, but I'm not familiar enough with all the suspension components to have a good guess as to what it might be. I don't see anything immediately wrong under the truck, but I don't really know what to look for when it comes to suspension issues. Any advice?

I didn't, I didn't realize it would make much of a difference. The exhaust hangers on my truck are pretty far back compared to where the pipe runs under the transmission pan. Next time I'll try that or just remove the exhaust, this time I ended up just pumping the old fluid out through the dipstick tube and replacing it.

I actually did watch this before doing mine, unfortunately his ratchet strap trick just didn't work quite well enough for me. I know I'm not the only one, there's other people in the comments mentioning that it didn't work for them either. Not sure why the different outcomes. My truck has a dipstick, no idea what to do if I didn't have one! How did you see well enough to do all that? Lying on my back under the truck, it would be a struggle to get my head at an angle where I could see into the pan. Also I am pretty sure I couldn't have gotten the filter out with that long stem it has.

I tried taking the gasket off already actually - I was able to get the gasket off, but still didn't have quite enough room to take out the pan. I tried levering the exhaust down more with a pry bar between it and the transmission cross member but didn't have any luck, I could move it a little bit but still not enough. At this point I was also worried about breaking some bolts on the exhaust because they are all pretty rusty and I was already putting a ton of force on the exhaust. I think I might just get a cheap vacuum pump like you suggest and do it that way, and forget doing the filter until I have 90k miles or so. By that point I might have an actual garage and be better equipped to do this job. I did the shake-the-hell out of it method already, got about 2 qts of fluid out that way. The fluid I removed looked to still be in decent shape, it was a dark brown color and not completely black like I've seen in some people's trucks with higher mileage, which makes me think just changing the fluid might work. I'm kind of surprised since I have towed a lot with this truck the first year or two I owned it.

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I don't have air tools or a welder or a floor jack, I'm in an apartment complex so I'm limited to hand//battery powered tools. Bottle jack might work though for getting the transmission up a little bit. My exhaust bolts are already rusted to hell from being in New Hampshire for several years, so I'm not sure I want to mess with those myself. Sounds like this might be a job for a mechanic, I'm going to put everything back together and refill the quart or two of fluid I was able to drain out without dropping the pan.

Trying to change the transmission fluid in my 2017 Silverado. Pulled the exhaust up as far as I could using a 2x4 and ratchet strap strapped to the frame, pulling on it as hard as I could to get it as low as possible. I still can't remove the transmission pan because the exhaust isn't low enough. I don't have a floor jack that I could strap the exhaust around. Any other ways I could lever this thing down a little bit more? I tried using a breaker bar as a lever but it started to bend well before the exhaust did. I've been struggling with it for several hours now and it's driving me insane.

Got an update on this one. I changed my front differential and transfer case fluids yesterday. Took me a while to get around to it but I am definitely glad I did. There was a pretty decent amount of metal shavings on the transfer case drain plug - from looking at pictures from other people, I don't think it was anything to be too worried about though. In the front diff, after draining most of the fluid, there was some sludge left over that I dug out and then tried to flush out by running more fluid through the diff. I think I'm going to change the front diff fluid again in a month or two and see if anything else comes out. Next up, gonna do the transmission itself and the rear diff. The humming noise has not been resolved yet. I've noticed it goes away when I turn left, starting to make me think it could be a wheel bearing or alignment issue.

Yeah I wasn't doing anything crazy, just driving normally. 4H going ~40 mph for most of it I put it in 4H again and then back to 2H yesterday, drove forwards a bit each time until it had finished shifting back and forth. No strange noises this time. I think I am still gonna change the transfer case, diff, and transmission fluids just for peace of mind. Might help the occasional hard shifts I get too.

2017 Z71, ~45k miles, 6 speed trans Good idea, can't hurt anything to do this. Yeah that's definitely possible haha, I've been worried about it ever since I did it. Could just be I'm hunting for something wrong now and am noticing stuff that normally wouldn't be a big deal. After it clunked switching back to 2WD, I put it back in 4WD for a second to see if it would happen again. Didn't hear anything out of the ordinary, but I might try again driving a slightly longer distance (was in a pretty confined space last time in terms of how far I could go straight.)

A few weeks ago I went for a hike and had to take my truck down some not great roads to get there, put it in 4WD because the Auto setting just wasn't cutting it. I was trying to get in touch with a friend of mine when we got off the dirt trail and forgot to put it back in Auto/2WD, and drove probably 8-9 miles on twisty back roads in 4WD. I only realized my problem when I had to make a sharp turn and my turning radius was noticeably reduced. When I put it back in 2WD I heard a clunking sound. Other than that, I think I have heard more noise from the transmission in general since then, just a louder gear hum basically. Other than the transmission noise seeming generally louder, haven't noticed any other issues. Should I go get my truck checked out at a shop or am I probably fine?

My 2017 Silverado has lived most of its life up in New Hampshire but now I'm back in Texas and am looking to do something about the surprisingly large amount of rust on the frame and exhaust. I only have about 30k miles on this truck and I washed it pretty frequently even in the winter to try to keep the salt off, but the frame already has a pretty significant amount of rust all over it. Whatever the waxy black coating that GM put on the frame isn't doing so hot either, it comes off if I so much as touch it. Most of the exhaust is better than the frame but the rear part of the exhaust is pretty bad too. I've never tackled anything like this before, I'm comfortable doing oil changes, brakes (my brake discs look like they're rusted too, gonna have to deal with that at some point) and other simple stuff like that. From what I understand I need to strip off the rust using something like a drill with a wire brush and then spray over it with POR-15 or some other rust converter. I know I can't paint the exhaust so I guess I'll just try to get rid of as much rust as I can and leave it at that, I can just replace it if it comes to it. What is all of the stuff around the frame I need to be worried about hitting with POR-15 and what's a good way to cover it? Does anyone else who has done something like this have any advice for me? Also I think I need a sprayer of some kind to apply POR-15 but I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on one.

Posted this elsewhere but it didn't get any attention so I'll try again here. I'm trying to take the tail gate off my 2017 Silverado so I can get a light bar on. Before I do that, I have to disconnect the backup camera from its wiring harness next to frame crossmember behind the spare tire. I've been messing with the thing for about an hour and for the love of God I cannot the connector to come off. I unlocked the red tab like you're supposed to. Then I pushed down on the black piece in the middle of it, I can hear it sort of click/creak as it raises the little plastic clip. I know I'm using the right technique to get this thing off, but for the life of me I can't get the thing to come apart. Taking your tailgate off really isn't that uncommon of a thing to do, so anybody experienced this before/got any tips? Electrical connectors and I have a bad history but I've never experienced anything this bad. My fingers were still hurting 2 days later.

Went to Lowes and bought some stain/sealer and screws to finish rebuilding my deck. Also cleaned all the crap out of my bed that was in there from hauling the old lumber from said bed. Want to put a tailgate light bar on the back of my truck so spent some time looking at that. Think I'm gonna go with this: Redline Triple LED Sequential Tailgate Bar. Not sure if I want to go amber or red turn signals yet. I'm leaning amber but think it might look strange with the red tail light signals. Found a cool truck on here I want to mimic the front end of.

Light bar into the fog lights is a nice touch, smart. And the upper ones are pretty much on all the time then, right? That's what I'm hoping for. I'm a complete newbie with electrical stuff more or less so bear with me.

Great looking truck you got there. Definitely gonna copy your top lights, super cheap mod that will look great. I like the bar too but the big things I got to sink cash into first are a cover, tool box, fender liners. Then hopefully an exhaust. Aaaand I was gonna ask a bunch of questions but then your post above just pretty much answered them.