jd173706

Nice video, thanks for putting it together. I know you posted this over a year ago, but it sucks nobody commented or really gave you any support because this is a pretty legit video write-up on how to do this procedure. I've done it twice on my '14 1500 Silverado, I now have 151k miles and my transmission is still shifting like new. I'll say two things I disagree with on this video are: 1. you didn't show/mention replacing the rubber/metal gasket the filter slides into, it's tough to remove but should be changed. 2. you do not have to jack up the transmission and winch down the exhaust to get the pan out. It is tough, I grant you. But it can and should be done without stressing the trans and exhaust like that. If you pull the filter down when the pan is unbolted, and move the gasket aside just like in your video, you can rock the deep part of the pan towards the driver's side and push it up, and it will JUST clear that white plastic wire harness that hangs down. Then to reinstall you place the loose filter in the pan, lift and slide it over the exhaust, then push the filter in place and align the pan/gasket and tighten. I promise I've done it that way with my own two hands, twice. But otherwise good job, somebody deserves to give you some credit for putting this together, for DIY'ers who haven't yet done it themselves and want to give it a shot I'm sure it's extra appreciated.

https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-tie-rod-sleeves-11000.html?rrec=true Yeah, the ball joints are definitely the reason they are getting replaced. I just have seen some websites selling thicker, "reinforced" tie rods; or selling these threaded sleeves that go over the skinny part of the factory inner tie rod and take the place of the jam nut. The idea being, adding a steel collar over the thinnest part of the tie rod would prevent it from bending if you hit a curb or take it off road, etc. It sounds like a money grab to me, I've never heard of someone bending a tie rod unless they crashed and then that's just one of many damaged components.

I tried to search the whole website several times and either can't figure out the search feature, or (would be shocking if true) nobody has discussed this before? I am driving a 2014 Silverado 1500 2WD with 3.5" RC spacers up front and 2" blocks in rear, with 33" Wildpeak AT3Ws on the factory 18" LT wheels. The tires weigh about 60lbs each... and after 146,000 miles (not all lifted- lift went on at 100k) and the steep RC angles, the tie rods need replaced. I ordered MOOG parts even though I've heard their quality slipped, inner and outer tie rods for both driver & passenger sides. I've seen advertised those tie rod sleeves, to reinforce the 1/2" thick tie rods to keep them from bending or breaking with heavier tires or more spirited driving. My question is if they are worth putting on; now's the time since I'm replacing the tie rods anyway. But if they are like throttle body spacers and are completely pointless, I don't wanna waste $40. Anybody know if this is an actual benefit, or just a money grab? Thanks.

Bummer, no replies. I am also considering this tire, and was curious what you think of it? I am going to go with the 275/70R18 though, because that makes the tire dimensions 33.4" tall by 11" wide. Pretty cool website I found, you can input different tire sizes and play with the numbers and it will show you how it looks compared to stock size-wise, and what the exact dimensions are. It even tells you how many revolutions per mile and speedometer offset numbers! I stumbled across it while searching for wheels & tires, but after finding it I am just going to keep my stock wheels and upgrade the rubber when my tires wear out. Here is the website if you're interested: https://tiresize.com/tires/Falken/Wildpeak-AT3W-275-70R18.htm

Which control arms can you use to keep factory wheels, do you know? I’d like to go that route. I like my factory wheels, and I would like to get what I need now so later on when I get the zone lift, I already have wheels/tires I can use with it. *edit, I wasn’t clear. I only saw one control arm option on zone’s website for the 4.5” kit. Is there another option?

That looks great man, very nice truck. I’m jealous! How did you keep your factory wheels? I was told I couldn’t use mine for Zone 4.5”. Maybe the factory 18”s have different backspacing than the 20”s?

What I did was drop the pan and change my filter and 6 quarts fluid at 115,000 miles (I bought it used at 94,000). Then the next weekend I unhooked the trans fluid cooler line by the radiator and started the engine, let it pump until the flow slowed (4 quarts exactly) shut it off and then refilled 4 quarts, restarted it and let it pump until it slowed (4 quarts exactly again) then refilled 4 quarts. By then, the fluid was a medium-dark red, it was pretty much black and not transparent before I did the filter/fluid change the first time and I'm sure the way I did it I mixed a lot of old and new fluid... Probably wasted a few quarts of new fluid but oh well. I feel better because I have the magnet clean and a new filter, and mostly new fluid, and the transmission seems to be operating normally. BTW my friend is the store manager at a local NAPA store, so I got their house brand (made by Valvoline) Dexron VI synthetic fluid for $4.10 a quart, so the whole thing plus filter only cost me around $65. It is sort of.... involved... though, for all you DIYers out there be ready to cuss GM for that exhaust pipe they routed directly under the transmission pan. Otherwise, easy-peasy.

I think I'm leaning towards a camper shell, any experience with those?

I have a 2014 LT Crew Cab with the short box, and I am a salesman who drives this truck all day every day for work. I keep samples and catalogs, a small toolbox and a plastic tub with a lid that has towels and jacks, trailer hitch, jumper cables, etc. I have a soft tonneau cover that came on the truck when I bought it used, I don't know the brand but it has a big bowtie in the middle towards the tailgate so maybe it's an OEM GM part? This soft cover, coupled with a few commercial grade floor mats down in the bed I have from a previous job, and my bed stays really dry and it's great. I'd like to get a little more security, and it would be nice to have more room to move around without rolling back the cover, so I have been considering hard bed covers (low ones that sit right over the top of the bed), and tall ones that some people call camper shells or toppers (with windows and a high roof, level with the cab roof). What do you guys think is the best option for what I use it for, bearing in mind I need accessibility and water-tight more than anything else. Security is a plus but not worth spending over $1,500~ (to me). I know this is a pretty standard price for a camper shell, I have looked around a little, but I would also like to know what everyone else may think might be a better option for me? Also, what do you guys think about the bed seal kits? Does it make the bed really hard to clean? Is it really a good thing to do? How water-tight can you really get it, with the big gaps between the tailgate and the sides of the bed? Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

Woah, that looks nice and for a good price too. Awesome, thank you again you’ve been a big help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect, thanks man.

Ok, good to know. Thanks! Would you know if either the Zone or BDS kits would require me to get new wheels and tires, because of the offset?

Thanks guys. I understand now what I didn't before, I thought spacers were the accepted standard for 4"~ and lower, anything else was unnecessary, plus I thought if I'm just needing spacers how much can they realistically expect to charge for some machined chunks of aluminum and a few bolts? That's why I was mentioning cost, I just thought it was a ripoff from a materials standpoint alone. But I get now that you need the complete kits to keep stock angles, I wasn't understanding that before. Plus you gotta pay the guy who figured out the geometry and made the kit, so that justifies the expense. I'll go with a real kit, thanks everyone for your input. Now that I got that figured out, has anyone installed one of these themselves? I'm not gonna lie, it looks like a lot of work, but I just don't really trust any of the shops near me. I haven't lived here long, and I don't know who does good work, plus I enjoy doing stuff like this. Is it something that would be a major pain in the a$$ to do myself, or is it pretty easy for someone who has a little suspension work experience?

Thanks, Irby1757 helped with some additional information. I wasn't considering the kits I saw were not true lifts. For 4" is there a true lift available though? Can you really not run stock wheels after?

For example, here is a cheap 3.5" kit for $200 that includes front spacers, and rear spacer blocks with longer u-bolts to hold them together. http://supremesuspensions.com/product/2007-2016-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-1500-full-suspension-lift-kit-2wd-4wd/ I know the brand may not be top of the line, but frankly for what you're buying the quality of the materials is the only real concern, and there should only be compression forces on the parts anyway so I don't see what the risk would be.

Thanks for the quick reply. That's what I mean though, if you look at what comes with a 4" lift usually it doesn't even include front shocks. The stock coilovers are reused, and there is a spacer that goes on top of the spring or underneath the shock on top of the lower control arm. Sometimes it includes a new upper control arm, but they look identical to stock. I am wondering if the ball joint is at a different angle on the replacement ones, to allow for the steeper angle on the control arm since it retains the stock mounting location on the truck body? Then in the rear, it's just steel spacer blocks that go between the axle tube and the leaf springs. That's why I thought I should be able to accomplish what I want to do with just 5100's in front and my current leveling spacers, then taller blocks for the rear. Is there more that I am not taking into consideration? (I am fairly experienced as a DIY mechanic, and I have replaced the entire front suspension including all bushings, control arms, and ball joints on several vehicles. I have had the front end of this truck apart already as well, though that was just for the level kit.) Thanks.

Hey guys, forgive me for not reading 256 pages of entries to try and find the specific answer I'm looking for, I read about 35 pages before giving up, if there is a way to search a thread please enlighten me as I have not yet found it. In fact, I need to play around with this website some more anyways, because it is kinda difficult to navigate for a newbie like me. Anyway, here is my question. I have a 2014 Silverado LT 2wd with a 2" level kit I installed myself 25,000 miles ago. No issues or anything but I just really want to give it a little more height. I have my eye on a 3.5" or 4" lift kit either from Rough Country or someone else, I'm not brand loyal (just want to get something relatively cheap). I am going to put it on myself so I don't want cheap parts, but I also don't want to get gouged which is what it looks like happens with most kits in this lift range that cost around $600-$700 for parts only (from a shop. Online I can find the parts for $150-$300). I mean, we are only talking about steel spacer blocks and u-bolts to hold them on in the back, new shocks and either spacers or taller shocks up front or a combination of the two. Some come with a new upper control arm for both fronts. Some come with an under-shock spacer, some come with an on-top-of-shock spacer, some have both. How is it possible that a couple steel blocks and some bolts can cost $700? My question is this; I went to a shop today asking about prices and the guy told me my steering geometry would be messed up with a 4" spacer kit, and that I couldn't do a Bilstein 5100 shock on the highest setting with a shock spacer beneath it and the control arm. He said it couldn't be aligned, would have drivability issues, and would generally be unsafe. Sounds like BS to me, but I am also no expert so I wanted to ask your opinion. Also, does the upper control arm need to be replaced if I already have the forged/cast steel control arms? I thought that was only for the trucks that had aluminum arms? This guy also told me I would NOT be able to run stock wheels anymore with this 4" kit, because the stock wheel would rub the control arms after lift. That sounds like BULLS**T. Whats the real deal with steering geometry, spacers, 5100's, and all that? Sorry I wrote a book. I tried to be as concise as possible Thanks in advance for any help you can offer! -Joe

Ahh, I see... I kinda had my heart set on tow mirrors because I like the way they look, I don’t necessarily need them or anything but I also don’t want them to shake or be less sturdy in car washes or anything. I found a set that seem to be fine on Amazon for under $200, then there is another set for $250 that may be a bit better built. Would DL3 be plug n play though you think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a 14 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the warm welcome, I see you’re in Dallas! I’m in OKC. We are neighbors, so to speak. I’ll go take that photo today. I tried yesterday and I only got so far as to pop out the rubber boot, I couldn’t figure out how to release the connector, thank you for the info. I’m pretty sure mine is missing the proper pins though because I only have the heated/power mirrors, I don’t have the other features. I’ll get that photo soon! Thank you in advance for all your help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am sorry if this is mentioned elsewhere, but I have done quite a bit of reading so far and have yet to find the answer to this question anywhere... (Newbie to the forum as well so patience is appreciated!) How do you disconnect and remove the door jamb wiring harness connector to verify if you have the three pins required to add towing mirrors? I am on the verge of buying a set of aftermarket tow mirrors off Amazon and want to know which harness(es) I'll need, so I can estimate how much to total cost will be to do the swap. I understand it will be a ton of work, but I'm a fairly capable DIY mechanic... Thanks in advance! P.S. pgamboa, do you still make harnesses and offer support to those attempting to do the swap?

That's a cool idea, thanks for posting this. I had never thought about it but I (like lots of others clearly!) will be doing it because I can always use more storage space! Just gotta remember not to keep anything in there that can be harmed by high temps.